The Sewing Place

The Emporia => The Show Must Go On => Topic started by: datcat23 on January 30, 2021, 23:07:55 PM

Title: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on January 30, 2021, 23:07:55 PM
I have a major project for the year.  DD is a primary school teacher, and book week is in August.  Usually making anything for her is a last minute rush, so I am pushing her to decide ahead of time, so it can be planned for.  Given the theme "old worlds, new worlds, other worlds", I have suggested, and she agree's with, Mary Poppins.

Now, the components are walking skirt, frilly white blouse, red necktie, longline jacket, white gloves, umbrella, hat with flowers, and carpet bag,.  (not my photo - source  https://www.surfandsunshine.com/diy-mary-poppins-costume/) 

(https://www.surfandsunshine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/DIY_mary-poppins-costume-from-your-closet_custom.png)

Given its a costume and doesn't need to be strictly period accurate, I am working on the premise of using existing patterns to get the "feel".  She would love an 1890's walking skirt, so I am wondering if I should splash out for the pattern  (if I do, where do I get it?).  Otherwise I have a 6 gore pattern (style D), I could add an extra pleated panel to the back .... WDYT?  The jacket is a complete mystery, and I will tackle that after the skirt. 

I would love to hear any suggestions, and recommendations of patterns.  Given she doesn't like wool (and its too hot here, even in winter), suggestions of fabric would be great too.

Possible skirt pattern - Simplicity 5914 - view D adding extra width to the centre back gore to be taken up in pleats.  Possible issues, it doesn't have a waistband.  If I interline the fabric, and give it a faced hem for the swish factor, then it might need more support than a faced waistband could give. 

(https://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/simplicity/5914/5914.jpg)

This project may require me to break my fabric diet, but oh well, it probably wouldn't have lasted anyway.  :devil:




Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: b15erk on January 31, 2021, 14:31:11 PM
@datcat23 , how exciting!  We are doing similar projects! :dance:

Mine is for littlies Bert and Mary at the Races, but glad that this time the children want the Julie Andrews version!

I did the coat, skirt and blouse last year for Lilya, but it was for the Emily Blunt MP.  I did love doing it though, and although the bag was hard work as I made my own fabric, it's still going strong!

Really excited to see what you come up with, and maybe steal some ideas... :|  ;)

Following with interest!  :thumbsup: :)

Jessie
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on January 31, 2021, 21:04:28 PM
True to her autistic soul, since I suggested Mary Poppins as a costume (3 days ago), my daughter has researched both the movies and the books, done a comparison of the costumes, including the descriptions in the books, and purchased a set of books for her classroom. After all that research, she has decided that the skirt should be a deep blue, although not with piping, as one of the movie costumes is. if we can find a suitable jacket when thrift shopping (in which case black will be fine) great, otherwise, I should plan to do a blue jacket as well.

I put on a pair of my linen pants this morning, and it occurred to me that a nice heavy linen could do well for the skirt.  Although, she doesn't iron, so that aspect may be a problem.  Still thinking about that one. 
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: Sonatine on February 03, 2021, 01:03:40 AM
If you're interested in an 1890s walking skirt pattern I can recommend the Black Snail Patterns Edwardian fan-skirt, available as a pdf on Etsy. It goes together beautifully, you just need to be aware that it's sized strangely (based off body measurements but taking into account a waist reduction from wearing a corset) so you'd have to cut a size up without a corset.
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on February 03, 2021, 09:53:35 AM
Thinking about the skirt, many, many years ago I used to just use petersham ribbon turned to the inside if they didn't have a waistband.
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on February 12, 2021, 03:41:36 AM
So breaking my fabric diet  :boohoo:, I picked up some navy suiting today, off the half price rack at my local lincraft.  I should have enough for both a skirt and jacket.

I also picked up some bemsilk lining, however, I am concerned that this doesn't have enough weight for the skirt, and I should line with something firmer. 

Thoughts?   :thinking:
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on February 28, 2021, 21:34:28 PM
After a short delay, I have started on the muslin for the walking skirt. 

For this incarnation, I have taken the centre back panel of the skirt pattern, traced out a flat copy (the pattern piece was supposed to be cut on the fold), and then cut out two of them instead of one.  This gave me a centre back seam where I will be inserting an invisible zip (pattern has a side zip).  The front is exactly as per the pattern.  The back has 6 x 2cm pleats inserted, 3 each side of the centre back zip.  I will be adding a firm waistband, as the back will be quite heavy, however I will need to try it on her first, to get an idea if I need to adjust at any point.   I can see her wanting it longer though ..... she's 5'10, so this is probably going to fall below the knee on her. 

Front
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50987333068_8e7fa8a0a0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kFzpKs)walking skirt muslin (https://flic.kr/p/2kFzpKs) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

Back
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50988149057_2f46be811f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kFDAje)walking skirt muslin (https://flic.kr/p/2kFDAje) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

it fits Alice (DDs dressform), so i am fairly hopeful that there won't be a lot to do to the waist area.   
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on March 02, 2021, 20:39:10 PM
DD came over for a fitting yesterday, and now I am debating if I need to continue with this version.

The skirt fits perfectly, at this point.  I haven't added a waistband, and I wonder if I should, just to make sure I have it sitting right.  Opinions welcome. 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50997816332_4fd4e38708_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGv94o)Walking skirt muslin - fitting (https://flic.kr/p/2kGv94o) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

The fullness at the back isn't huge.  I had thought she might want more, but she is very happy with it. 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50997000968_4767216f3e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kGqXFo)Walking skirt muslin - fitting (https://flic.kr/p/2kGqXFo) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

As expected, she wants it longer.  I am thinking about 2 inches will do it.  I was expecting that she might want me to finish off this version, but mismatched checks are too much for her.  This one will go into the bin when I am done. 
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on April 02, 2021, 11:55:54 AM
Progress shots all round. 

Today I started the Mary Poppins skirt.  In fact, I got a lot more done today, than I expected to get done.  All skirt panels cut out (adding 4 inches to the pattern length, to have it at ankle length), both outer fabric and interlining.  I got all the panels lined, the front stitched together, and the back together, including zip, and pleats.  I have drafted off the pattern pieces for the front and back hem facing, but I won't be doing that, until the skirt has hung for a while, and the waistband is in place. I would have got the sides done too, but I need to draft up a set of pockets and put them in first.

Back, prior to pleats being inserted.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51089491287_5896671462_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQAZQ4)Navy walking skirt (https://flic.kr/p/2kQAZQ4) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

I am ridiculously happy with my zip insertion.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51089946033_f7d252879f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQDk1v)Navy walking skirt (https://flic.kr/p/2kQDk1v) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

And pretty little pleats.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51089403931_753589686c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQAxRV)Navy walking skirt (https://flic.kr/p/2kQAxRV) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

DD came over for dinner tonight, and we used the opportunity to check the length.  She thinks she will wear this for normal wear, which is a lovely compliment from her (she's autistic, so often misses the mark when appreciating things).  I will probably make her a below the knee version though, once I have finished the costume. 
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: fajita on April 02, 2021, 13:12:53 PM
It looks lovely. Love the swing on the back. Very nice.
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on April 04, 2021, 05:50:05 AM
Back to the skirt again.

Today's task was to draft up a pocket pattern piece, and set them into the side seams.  I used the interlining fabric for the pocket bags, as its a bit sturdier than the suiting.  That being said, I didn't want the fabric to peek, so stitched on a strip of the suiting first, so thats what will show when she puts her hand in the pocket. Nice deep pockets, big enough for a mobile phone.  I lengthened the top so they would catch in the waistband, as this skirt is quite high waisted. 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093804768_8dc0742067_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZ75q)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZ75q) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093804808_6273e44f28_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZ767)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZ767) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51094076090_41ccc8a0b2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kR1uJo)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kR1uJo) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093263991_c9df02ca7e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQWkjF)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kQWkjF) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on April 04, 2021, 05:54:33 AM
All thats left is the waistband and hem.   I will probably tackle the waistband tomorrow.  I plan to have a fairly narrow one, strengthened with twill tape, as this skirt has some heft to it.  And it will be warm. 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093264086_b620e0f333_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQWkmj)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kQWkmj) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51094075970_4195252f68_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kR1uGj)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kR1uGj) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

I sometimes wonder if I over-engineer things.  DD's costumes from when she was in primary school, are probably still going strong.  I just can't bring myself to bodge anything.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51093804628_a6f72b1195_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZ731)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kQZ731) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on May 15, 2021, 06:07:32 AM
Its been quite a while since I visited this topic.  The skirt is all but finished, just a skirt bar to insert on that one. 

This week, I have turned to the jacket.   Thanks to someone wonderful here in TSP, I came across McCalls M7513, an out of print pattern, that was offered online as a pdf.  Yes I did have to sticky tape approximately a gazillion pieces of paper, but it is exactly the style she wants. 

She chose the flat front, pleated peplum back, short version, as the design she wants, and measuring her, she comes out as a straight 12.  However, looking at the toile on the dress form, I am thinking I am going to have to size down for the shoulders (although the dress form is quite a bit smaller than her, I really need to adjust it again).  I also think I will need to do a small bust adjustment, as the bust dart is ridiculously big.  The jacket bodice and sleeves are lined, but not the skirt sections, so I think I will be interlining those as well.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51179618736_a0577952d8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kYyVzA)Toile  MP jacket (https://flic.kr/p/2kYyVzA) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on May 16, 2021, 23:10:09 PM
As expected, the chest area is ridiculously big, but the waist is fine.  Given how tiny  her waist is, this is silly.   The bust dart is as big as a dart I would make for myself (I am a DD cup).  She barely scrapes into a C cup, and so the chest just swims on her.  I am going to size the bodice down, and adjust the bust dart to give her the width in the waist she needs.  I do have to be careful though, as her shoulders are quite wide, and that will impact. 

So this afternoon's job will be to retrace the pattern, and cut out a new toile. 
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on May 19, 2021, 12:33:14 PM
Despite my covid vaccination side effects, I had a second go at doing a jacket toile. 

This is sized down to a size 10 all over, with the side seams and side back seams sized at size 8. Because the size 12 waist was right for her, I took an inch of each dart.  This also gives the darts a more sensible shape for a B/C cup.  I am playing with the idea of shortening the waist as well, I will check when I fit it on her this weekend. 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51188398012_ca9b06d04f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkVmq)Mary Poppins costume (https://flic.kr/p/2kZkVmq) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on May 31, 2021, 04:57:30 AM
Hey ho again.  Back to this project.

Despite some award winning procrastination  :facepalm: I got in this morning, and cut out the jacket pieces, outer fabric, lining, interlining for the skirts and interfacing.   

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51214338841_a138d68674_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2CSE6)MP jacket (https://flic.kr/p/2m2CSE6) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

Thats it ...... Can't lay claim to any more progress. 
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on May 31, 2021, 05:11:11 AM
Oh, and I also came across two squares of this old fashioned tapestry style fabric.  I plan to use them, to make a small carpet bag style tote, that she can use with her costume.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51214548483_f7787eb31f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2DWYB)tapestry fabric (https://flic.kr/p/2m2DWYB) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: datcat23 on June 06, 2021, 00:41:34 AM
Yesterdays progress:  I made a start on the Mary Poppins jacket for DD, putting the back and front together, attaching the undercollar and setting in the sleeves.  DD came over for dinner last night, and we did a quick try on,  she is really quite happy with it. 

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51226746092_a2bc34acdc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3JsUd)Mary Poppins  jacket (https://flic.kr/p/2m3JsUd) by Dani (https://www.flickr.com/photos/datcat/), on Flickr

I would have got further with the lining, but was distracted with a new sewing table for my sewing room (an old singer treadle base with a flat table surface). 

I also have to recut one of the lining pieces, as I didn't realise there was some brown paper stuck to the fabric.   :facepalm:
Title: Re: Mary Poppins Costume - Project Log
Post by: Elnnina on June 06, 2021, 10:10:53 AM
That is looking good Dani, and I must mention that I love the fabric you have found for making a bag - that will be just right.  Your daughter is a very lucky lass.