The Sewing Place

The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Topic started by: juliam on May 29, 2017, 17:53:47 PM

Title: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on May 29, 2017, 17:53:47 PM
Help please - I need advice pretty urgently!

I have to create a train in the Simplicity coat pattern - view D. In a beaded lace fabric as per the pictures.

There's a gather in the back slightly and I want to cut across the waistline and then create a fall in the lace but cutting a curve, say 4", in the lower back and stitch along the straight waist edge. I think this will create a fall, aka train int back of the coat?

Would this work do you think? I've tried in a toile but it doesn't seem to work (probably because it's a cotton drill).

I've got two weeks - yikes!
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: Efemera on May 29, 2017, 21:30:37 PM
Could you post a picture of the toile...or a sketch of what you want...
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: BrendaP on May 29, 2017, 21:40:51 PM
Pictures of the sketch would help, but I'm thinking that you need to do the toile with something which drapes well such as old sheeting or duvet cover.  Cotton drill is probably much too stiff.
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: b15erk on May 31, 2017, 13:37:06 PM
Have you got an old lace curtain Julia - you know the heavy ones?  Maybe the charity shop?

I don't see how it wouldn't work, and in that lace - gorgeous!

Jessie
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: Vegegrow on May 31, 2017, 14:32:16 PM
good advice from everyone ..I've never put a train on something that way  but the theory sounds fine... I would cut it bigger than 4" though  you can always trim off a inch but you can't add
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: maliw on May 31, 2017, 14:48:35 PM
Just a thought, does the front of the coat have to be squared off as in the photo? I would be tempted to just make the coat longer and then  round off the front into a longer back to make a train rather than cutting it across the back where there are no seam lines at present. Does that follow, I know what I mean anyway?
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: juliam on June 01, 2017, 18:47:55 PM
Thank you all for the help.
What I've actually done is added a curve to the back and then to retain the lace border I have placed the cut edge into the side seam and the fold is then pleated to keep the fullness.
Seems to work on the chiffon toile anyway!
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: DementedFairy on June 01, 2017, 18:49:29 PM
I think I would have cut off the border and reapplied it after getting a 'normal' train shape.  lol
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: b15erk on June 02, 2017, 09:15:39 AM
How's it going Julia?  Any progress?

Jessie
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: juliam on June 02, 2017, 11:41:19 AM
The last couple of nights has been adjusting the bodice!
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: juliam on June 03, 2017, 16:54:24 PM
Bodice finished apart from the buttons.

After all the advice bride to be has changed her mind to a lace overlay on her skirt and a waist length lace jacket. Handy but it means I've wasted a bunch of time on getting the coat the hang right on a toile. Grrr!  ><
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: maliw on June 03, 2017, 20:20:29 PM
Bridezilla?
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: juliam on June 04, 2017, 09:19:28 AM
The decision could have been made earlier but no, not really.
I'm late on the project due to my dad passing on in early May and the funeral arrangements came first. Just circumstances conspiring against us
Title: Re: Help please!
Post by: maliw on June 04, 2017, 10:35:47 AM
Sorry to hear your sad news Julia, take care.
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on June 04, 2017, 11:19:41 AM
Sorry to hear your sad news Julia, take care.
Thanks Mali.

I've added some pictures of where I'm at - I know we all love a picture!

The 'dress' is a skirt and bodice as per the Simplicity pattern. My Bride is a tricky shape so it's been modified and I designed the back overlay detail to cover the zip, and it's piped top and bottom. There are plastic 'baliene' bones in the side seam and back but not at the front, and it's all interlined with a soft cotton twill for strength. Self colour buttons added today to finish.

The skirt is plain A line, full length and will be overlaid with the lace in the first post, with a small train created. It's made up apart from the overlay, which was only decided on yesterday. I can't finish this yet as BTB is a little larger than when we had the first fittings - she's on a cup-a-soup diet! (Other snack based soups products are available  :))

I'll update the thread as things develop!
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: maliw on June 05, 2017, 17:03:59 PM
Looking good, I remember some of the things you did in another time and place, can't wait to see the finished 'ensemble'.
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on June 05, 2017, 21:06:01 PM
Started the beaded lace jacket today. Two hours to cut and stabilise the beads on the back and two sleeves. Could have been worse- they're pretty well secured luckily!
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on June 08, 2017, 21:46:26 PM
More pictures to follow - I have been sewing the lace jacket this week and it's going well  :D
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: b15erk on June 10, 2017, 09:27:50 AM
Julia, you have so much patience - your poor fingers!  Look forward to seeing the finished outfit.

Jessie
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on June 11, 2017, 18:20:39 PM
Latest update is that the jacket is now all but finished - a bead trim around front and collar and then hand finish the edge and that's done. Should be finished tomorrow or Tuesday. Wedding is Saturday and I still have to finish the skirt - good job I've the day off on Thursday!

I've never sewn with beaded lace before so have had a crash course in new techniques. I thought about what I needed to do and the main things were to protect the fabric from feed dogs and the presser foot. I'm feeding the fabric through on a tear away embroidery stabiliser and the top is protected from the presser by pattern paper. To give a little strength at shoulder and down the side seam I have bound the seam allowance in chiffon and then flat felled the seam allowance to the back.

It's been interesting!
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: Emma2109 on June 11, 2017, 19:15:54 PM
Love it x
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: Lilian on June 11, 2017, 19:51:06 PM
Well done, that looks gorgeous!
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: maliw on June 12, 2017, 13:45:01 PM
That is so pretty, love it.
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on June 15, 2017, 20:50:24 PM
Finished!

I had the day off today and spent it finishing the skirt. Bride had not lost all of the weight gain so I had to let it out to use the smallish seam allowance. I backed the seams off with cotton bias to give a little strength as the satin frays like a demon. Supposed to be silk but it wasn't - it was from a shop in the Goldhawk Road, so be careful if you're down that way - take some matches and do a burn test outside!

Anyway, all done a draw string bag made too with a lace outer layer.

Glad it's finished and hope you like it. I created a train effect by cutting the lace on the fold and on bias and then box pleating at the waistline, and making a small slot in the lace at the zip.

Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: Catllar on June 16, 2017, 12:45:44 PM
That's beautiful - simple but glam.
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: maliw on June 16, 2017, 16:53:57 PM
And breathe, well done Julia, lovely.
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on June 23, 2017, 19:57:20 PM
Last post is from the wedding day - really hot but she loved the dress :-)
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: Samantha on June 24, 2017, 10:08:29 AM
Lovely! Will you be able to post a picture of it on the bride at some point?
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: juliam on June 24, 2017, 14:42:49 PM
I though I did!
Title: Re: A wedding dress (Was "Help please!")
Post by: maliw on June 24, 2017, 17:33:51 PM
That looks lovely, I'm glad the bride liked it.