The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Patterns Discussion => Topic started by: JudyN on March 29, 2020, 19:08:49 PM

Title: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 29, 2020, 19:08:49 PM
Some may remember me posting a while back about my sensory issues causing problems with waistbands. Long story short, for me to be comfortable when relaxing, I need to waistband to be loose enough that my trousers fall off when I stand up. Elasticated waistbands aren't the answer, because they only stay up because they are putting slight pressure on my tummy. Dresses would be the answer if it wasn't for the fact that I don't find tights comfy either!

I've been playing with adapting the clothes I have, but I am the world's worst when it comes to going off piste, and I'm much better at following instructions, so I'm thinking about finding a pattern and making jeans/trousers from scratch. Fitting might be difficult as I'm never sure if I'll be comfy before I've totally slobbed out in them, and I'm also only 5' tall, but I'm thinking that I could compare the pattern pieces with a pair of my more comfortable jeans and let that guide me.

My ideal style would look like skinny jeans/jeggings, with a large waistband that could be pulled in tight with a belt when I'm out and about (OK, I'm not out and about much right now ;) ) and let out when I'm home. A zip would allow me to undo it when slobbing, but pull-up would work as long as there are belt loops, and as long as the waist didn't have to be so loose that it was horribly gathered when pulled in.

Fabric - I have problems with anything but the softest, or crispest fabrics - I have some jeans that make my legs feel as if I'm wearing a cheese grater before long. I'm wondering about denim jersey knit, but don't know if it would work with standard jeans patterns.

This is one of the patterns I've been looking at: https://doitbetteryourself.club/product/the-dauphine-skinny-jeans-pdf-sewing-pattern-misses-and-plus/ Alternatively, jeggings with a drawstring in place of elastic might work, and I'd consider something looser, like this, as long as it didn't look like I was wearing pjs: https://www.bonniespatternshop.com/listing/505169686/jalie-3676-vanessa-fluid-pants-welastic

Soooo... if you didn't give up reading three paragraphs back - is there any chance that a pretty rubbish sewer could successfully make a pair of jeans, adjusting them for my peculiarities? (My mum says I've no hope - thanks Mum ><) And could anyone suggest any pattern/fabric combos that might work? 
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Ploshkin on March 29, 2020, 19:45:03 PM
Have a go.  When you get it right you will have a 'go to' pattern for life.
Ive got a much tweaked jeans pattern that i use for most trousers i make and on the odd occasion i use a different pattern i compare it with my go to pattern.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: snoozi soozi on March 29, 2020, 19:52:09 PM
Definitely try. It sounds as though you wear trousers and jeans a lot of the time so if you can successfully nail a pattern you'll be well away. It might take a while to get the right fit but it will be worth it  ;)
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: jen on March 29, 2020, 19:57:37 PM
Pace yourself. Decide what parts of standard jeans are essential for you and what you will ditch. Jeans get a reputation because people go for the whole look, coin pocket, studs, run and fell seams, top stitching, waistband with belt loops, fly front. If you just want to make something that fits nicely and is comfortable and can skip lots of those processes it will be much quicker.
Key question for me is will I always have a top which covers the waist area.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Surest1tch on March 29, 2020, 20:02:44 PM
Don't be daunted, they are not as bad as they sound, if you can make trousers, you can make jeans
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 30, 2020, 09:30:28 AM
Don't be daunted, they are not as bad as they sound, if you can make trousers, you can make jeans
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Missie on March 30, 2020, 09:58:45 AM
That is the beauty of sewing clothes: you can make them to your exact specifications.  The only thing I would say in your plan is to think carefully about drawstring; it often needs something else such as elastic to go with it and on its own is not very comfortable.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 30, 2020, 10:21:37 AM
I had been thinking about elastic for most of the way round, but drawstring across the front... but again, if I don't have completely coherent instructions it would all go horrible wrong!

Meant to add, yes, I'm definitely a jeans person. I work from home and (usually) walk the dog twice a day, often involving mud, gorse, brambles, ticks... I only change in between walks if the mud is in danger of falling off my jeans and onto the carpet!
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Vezelay on March 30, 2020, 15:47:29 PM
I have an old pair of rtw yoga pants which use the cotton jersey fabric itself, folded over, for a waistband, no elastic. They do have ties but don't need them as they stay up all by themselves and are super comfortable.

Something like this http://sweet-verbena.blogspot.com/search?q=Yoga. I'm sure you'll find other similar patterns out there.

Myself I just make variations on the Style Arc Elle pant (some actually pass for jeans) but keep the elastic and waist comfortably relaxed.

Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 30, 2020, 20:53:20 PM
I'm thinking about the Ginger Jeans pattern, as it seems to be very popular, the pattern comes with a detailed booklet of instructions, and there's fitting tutorials online... it's still scary though :S

Any suggestions for fabrics, please? The pattern asks for stretch denim, at least 2% lycra, and one view isn't suitable for very lightweight fabric. I'd want something as soft and stretchy as possible, but I'm guessing something as stretchy as legging fabric wouldn't work and would be even more challenging to sew. And of course right now, I'd have to buy online...
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Vezelay on March 31, 2020, 00:34:51 AM
Hmm. Ginger is a popular pattern all right but are you quite sure it's what you actually want to wear? The pattern is intended for stretch wovens which don't have nearly as much give as jersey fabrics (ie the type you get in leggings). In theory you could adapt the pattern by sizing down but my feeling is that if you really want stretchy pants then find a pattern that's designed for ponte or similar double knit jersey. It would be pointless going to the trouble of inserting a fly in fabric that doesn't need a zip at all. Actually my favourite denim jeans don't have a fly at all and no one has noticed!

If you're still keen on tackling the Ginger you could look online for denim fabric with more than 2% lycra, although personally I haven't always found the stated % of lycra to be a reliable indicator of actual stretch! Good luck with your choices. :)




Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Sewbusy on March 31, 2020, 05:30:54 AM
Buy a pair of braces, that method of holding up trousers has served men for years!

Alternatively buy some coloured elastic and design your own, using clip-on fastenings
 
If comfort is your main priority around your waist I think loose top rather than one tucked into the waistband, so you could hide your custom made braces if you choose to.

Go on, start a trend.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Fabric Lover on March 31, 2020, 06:04:20 AM
You could wear dungarees too, they don’t have to be tight round the waist at all.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 31, 2020, 07:45:51 AM
You could wear dungarees too, they don’t have to be tight round the waist at all.

Not with my bladder! I'm often having to pop behind bushes when walking the dog and I need it to be a swift operation!

I could wear braces, but belts work just as well as I can undo them when I sit down - but I'd still have to wear jeans that were far too big, and it's not a good look on a small frame. So being able to adapt a pattern so it's size 8/10 in the legs, 12 in the bum (to allow for comfort when sitting down) and 14 at the waist would be good. Ah well, by the time I've decided what to make I'll be able to move into dresses and bare legs.

I'm also thinking of taking in the legs of some baggy boyfriend jeans, using a pair of better-fitting ones as a guide. At least I'll have plenty to keep me occupied during lockdown... Knowing me, probably mostly unpicking!
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 31, 2020, 12:49:44 PM
OK, I'm getting a plan together - which will be the Ginger Jeans.

Couple of questions:

1) The notions ask for topstitching thread and regular thread - is the difference simply the colour? I'm thinking of matching the thread as closely as possible to the colour of the fabric to hide any wonky stitching. Could anyone give me an idea of how much thread I'd need? I may already have some suitable but don't want to run out part way through.

2) The notions also mention a denim needle or heavy-duty needle. I'm thinking of this fabric: https://www.higgsandhiggs.com/coloured-stretch-denim-dark-indigo.html Would the bog standard (new) needles that came with my Juki be OK?

Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Vezelay on March 31, 2020, 14:36:08 PM
1. Topstitching thread is heavier than standard sew-all thread and comes in several colours including navy. Sometimes I'll use a double sew-all thread in one needle to substitute if I need a specific colour or run out. You can use a single standard thread but it won't look as good. You use a longer stitch length for topstitching as a rule.

2. For that fabric my Janome would work best with a 90/14 stretch needle as it has lycra in. Others may have different advice for your Juki.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 31, 2020, 15:12:29 PM
Thank you @Vezelay  :D
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Sewgorgeous on March 31, 2020, 18:08:31 PM
There is a really good you tube video called 'sewing tutorial with Lynn making jeans' - sorry don't know how to do link  ><
Is it possible to change clothes when you get home into your 'comfies'? It might help rather than adapting jeans to be that loose around the waist when your out in case they fall down  :ninja:  I always change when I get home I can't bare to sit around in going out clothes have to put my leggings (home made of course) on as soon as I get in.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on March 31, 2020, 18:18:21 PM
Thanks Sewgorgeous - it wouldn't really work because when I'm working at home I'm also in 'relaxed' mode (the bra gets undone as well and I have to do it up quick if someone comes round). And 'dressing up' to go dog walking seems a bit silly!

It's partly a psychological thing - if we have people round I can sit on the same seat in 'proper' clothes, bra done up, and be perfectly comfortable. Then the moment they go, I have to go into comfort mode again.

I should also investigate making low-rise leggings - after all, my knickers are comfy, which is just as well really!
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on April 01, 2020, 19:27:00 PM
I have an old pair of rtw yoga pants which use the cotton jersey fabric itself, folded over, for a waistband, no elastic. They do have ties but don't need them as they stay up all by themselves and are super comfortable.

Something like this http://sweet-verbena.blogspot.com/search?q=Yoga. I'm sure you'll find other similar patterns out there.

Myself I just make variations on the Style Arc Elle pant (some actually pass for jeans) but keep the elastic and waist comfortably relaxed.

Hmmm, you've got me thinking now - somewhere I spotted a guide for making a yoga waistband out of an old t shirt. I've got a couple of tight-fitting t shirts that I don't wear because I have to hold my tummy in... They're comfy though, so if I made a waistband from one of them and attached it to the leggings I cut the elastic off, it might just work...

Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Catllar on April 05, 2020, 16:52:17 PM
Get yourself a couple of new bobbins of thread, it's not worth running the risk of running out if you put in a lot of work. Get denim needles - they're designed to go through the multitude of thicknesses you'll have.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: Sewingforfun on April 13, 2020, 07:45:38 AM
I did the Ginger jeans class last year - it’s very good!! She (Heather Lou, the designer) actually recommended two strands of regular thread in the needle and one in the bobbin instead of top sticking thread.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on April 13, 2020, 08:00:48 AM
I've got as far as ordering the Ginger Jeans pattern  :) I realised I hadn't the confidence to buy the fabric online without feeling it, and didn't want to have to order lots of samples. Doing it this way, at least I can try to get my head around the process before starting rather than diving in and making a mess of it!

I have to make a good  fist of it just to prove my mother wrong...  ;)
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: wrenkins on April 13, 2020, 09:01:03 AM
Your mother is your mother until either you're dead or she is. Good luck with that!  :S

Looking forward to seeing your progress. I imagine trouser fitting to be a nightmare.
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: toileandtrouble on April 13, 2020, 09:49:39 AM
@JudyN  Just came across this thread. I remember a pattern for maternity skirts that had a flat front that adjusted over the pockets with buttons and buttonholes on the sides of the waistband. Can you imagine what I described? Might have a go at drawing it if you cannot. Let me know.  I'm sure you can do something wearable anyhow. Tell your mum!
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: JudyN on April 13, 2020, 10:23:31 AM
@toileandtrouble , I'll have a search for maternity patterns - good idea!

My mum is lovely, but... prone to criticise rather than praise. I'm still traumatised by the time I came out of a fitting room in a badly fitting dress and she said 'That dress makes your figure look even worse'  >:) Im never going to let her forget that one!
Title: Re: Am I mad to want to attempt jeans?
Post by: wrenkins on April 13, 2020, 13:14:27 PM
My mum still casts up my Brutus baggies from 1976!  0_0