The Sewing Place
The Emporia => What lies beneath... => Topic started by: Syrinx on June 23, 2017, 11:53:22 AM
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Now I was planning on buying a chemise to use under my riding corset instead of camisoles, but can I find one anywhere that is suitable? No.
So any bog standard boring chemise patterns that I can make up in some boring white cotton with a bit of ribbon to do thn neckline greatly appreciated. Nothing too expensive if possible.
I've become rather taken with this garment making thing!
Oh and the difference between cotton and cotton lawn in something like a chemise? I know lawn is more expensive, but would it be better for under a corset than bog standard cotton?
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Cotton lawn is finer and softer that craft weight (P&Q) cotton. I have a nightdress made from P&Q cotton and I can feel the difference compared to others (bought!) which are made of lawn. If you want it a bit more substantial than lawn how about cotton shirting or poplin?
There's nothing in my pattern collection that's even remotely like a chemise that doesn't call for stretch fabric, so how about using a cotton single jersey fabric?
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It needs to be loose so that it goes nicely under the corset and absorbs the oils from the skin (instead of the corset!) and some of the sweat, so lightweight and natural fibres is important. If it's skintight it doesn't work quite so well (like the camisoles I have at the minute).
I'll also need to cut the length I would think so it finishes upper thigh. I may just have to attempt to make my own pattern - just a front and back with integrated shoulder? Or is it more complicated than it sounds! Haha
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Just found this simple and free pattern :)
http://www.easyfreepatterns.com/18th-century-chemise-patterns.html
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There are loads out there. The pattern from Wearing History [PDF] is nice http://wearinghistory.clothing/e-pattern-circa-1917-combination-underwear-chemise/ (http://wearinghistory.clothing/e-pattern-circa-1917-combination-underwear-chemise/), and can be cut to any length. I like it because it has a nice wide neckline, that you can run a ribbon through to draw in to whatever size you need.
Cotton is just the fibre, cotton lawn, drill, poplin, twill sateen blah blah are the weaves. No such thing as 'bog standard cotton'
I have also one made in silk, which is short as I didn't have much fabric! A true 'cutty sark'
I have several chemises [and combinations, and drawers] mostly made from old, well-washed cotton sheets that are really soft. SOFT, no itchy scratchy left in as the bunching caused by the corset will kill you! You can get away with any old camisole though if you must. I don't recommend using stretch fabric as it may stretch in the wrong ways when stressed by the corset. Same for bias.