I haven't event looked at Reconstructing History thankfully @DementedFairy .  From what you say, it sounds like a nightmare of a pattern range.

This dress and pattern page is called DragonLore ..... and basically its an data entry page, that gives you the measurements of pieces for the dress.  But, the layout of the information is abysmal, and there are no cohesive sewing instructions at all. 

For the apron dress, I emailed and asked that if there was a front, and two side pieces, where is the back?  Her response .... "at the back".  Turns out, you have to sew the sides to the front, and then join the two sides at the centre back.  And because of this cutting method, you end up with a vertical seam through the centre of one of the sides/gores, which will almost certainly look very unbalanced.  I don't mind the fact that these features exist, but they do need to be properly described. 

So today I decided to make a start on my under-dress muslin, and also trial the embroideries, that will be going on the dresses.

My first hurdle?  Dealing with instructions that are obviously written by a non-sewer.  Sewing terminology and processes are so ingrained into my brain, that the sight of "the side panels are two trapezoids with a gore in the middle", is enough to make me twitch.  Some measurements are missing, and others you are told to guess.  As you can imagine, it is stressing out my tiny little obsessive brain.

I have made my first seamstress change to the process.  I have drafted to pattern paper, rather than straight onto the fabric.  While I appreciate the "no waste" method for cutting, I just need pattern pieces. 

I think I need another coffee, before I tackle anything else. 

[quote author=HenriettaMaria link=topic=6755.msg115779#msg115779 date=1556635173

If you're within travelling distance of Coventry and the wedding is next year, you can try The Original Re-enactors' Market for accessories, fabric, shoes, etc:

https://www.reenactorsmarket.co.uk/index.html
[/quote]

You are sweet @HenriettaMaria , but its unlikely I access this resource.  Australia is a fair distance away from Coventry.  I have to add the consideration, that while it will still be winter, it will actually be quite warm.  So regardless of tradition, I need to consider the heat when choosing fabrics.  So I might pass on the fur.  LOL

WDYT? 

I have picked up a big piece of cotton muslin, and after washing its the texture of a really soft cheesecloth.  I am considering that my chemise, to go under my dress, will work well in this fabric, but I am not sure. 

What do you think?  Will it stand up to being an undergarment?

In reality, this skirt has little in common with the pattern it is based on. Basically I used the pattern for its shape. Its KwikSew 3118, the pattern being for an unlined pencil skirt with a centre back zip. My measurements came in above the largest size, so I added 10cm in total to the width.

The fabric is a vintage piece of polyester double knit, in a herringbone pattern. I interlined it with a heavyweight knit tricot, omitted the zip (can't stand the things they dig in too much), and inserted an invisible elastic waist (yep folks, that there is an elastic waist). It helps that because my waist isn't much smaller than my hips, the band sits flat. I will be trialing this in a stretch suiting next, in order to update my work skirts to something that doesn't cut me in half when i sit down.

Herringbone work skirt by Dani, on Flickr

I have never been all that hot on the pinafore love, but I thought I would give this one a go.

Its the York Pinafore from Helens Closet.  A small range so far, but seems to be sensibly designed.  I did find one error on the pattern printout, so i will have to email them about it. 

I used some thrifted denim, given to me by a friend, rotating the pockets by 45deg angles, because "ain't nobody got time for pattern matching stripes".  I used a 20 for the bodice grading out at the waist and hips, because I am 50 now, and the teenage waist will never be back.  I did have to straighten the side seams a bit, because I carry my weight in the front rather than on my thighs, and so the exaggerated cocoon shape just looked like empty saddlebags on me. 

York Pinafore by Dani, on Flickr

York Pinafore by Dani, on Flickr

I thought I should add a shot of me in it.  I will definitely need it to be longer, if I want to wear it alone, or with tights.  Its OK with leggins though.

York Pinafore by Dani, on Flickr

It depends on what exactly you are doing too.  So, when I pin a pattern down, I pin parallel to the pattern edge, because I have nicked a pin with scissors and damaged the scissors in the process.  Some seams, I pin parallel (long straight seams for eg,), some I pin at 90deg (sleeve heads, gathering, tight curves etc), and some I do a mix of both.  As long as it does the job, nothing is actually "the wrong way". 

This pattern has been in my stash for yonks ..... more than 20 years at least.  I would regularly pick it up, flip it over to look at the size table, realise that I didn't fall into the measurement table perfectly (and throw a tantrum), and then stuff it back into the pattern drawer.  I have done plenty of pattern purges, but this one seemed to survive each one. 

Grey crinkle cotton pants by Dani, on Flickr

So last weekend I dug out some crinkle effect cotton (or maybe linen) out of the stash.  This fabric is well marinated, having been in the stash through at least 3 house moves.  I really must get into the habit of labelling my fabric. 

I decided to cut a straight size 24.  Looking at the finished hip measurement, I figured this would give me the ease that I needed, and then I could adjust the rest, as I would be treating this as a wearable muslin.   I didn't even shorten the legs, something I usually have to do.  I cut it out last weekend, and sewed it up yesterday.  Well I was pleasantly surprised.  The hips and waist fit just how I like them, the legs are as baggy as I want (I am aiming for a lagenlook without falling for the Tina Givens hype) without being too baggy.  They are long, but I like the fact that they don't ride up when I sit.  I will probably shorten the front crotch a little bit, but overall, I am very happy with the result. 

Grey crinkle cotton pants by Dani, on Flickr

I don't normally wear just a singlet and pants, but do so for the sake of an accurate photo.  These will be worn with a long tunic top, or perhaps even a dress.

Grey crinkle cotton pants by Dani, on Flickr

Grey crinkle cotton pants by Dani, on Flickr