The Sewing Place

The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 21, 2020, 10:52:46 AM

Title: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 21, 2020, 10:52:46 AM
I'm fed up with my tops getting hoiked up on my fat ar backside, so I decided I need a camisole/slippery undertop to stop that happening.
I've got some fabric, still waiting for the sating bias binding (no, I'm not faffing about making my own), so now need to start cutting out.  I'll use the same pattern I use for sleeveless tops, but maybe make the arm holes a bit bigger, I don't want thin straps that will more than likely slide off.

I'm going to cut it on the bias, will this work do you think, or will it make it too clingy?  I don't do clingy, it just needs to be loose like my tops. but I was thinking bias for the give-ability.  What do you reckon?
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: BrendaP on October 21, 2020, 11:12:09 AM
@Bodgeitandscarper  my experience of cutting satin on the bias has not been good. 

That's because the amount of crossways give in the fabric is not the same as the amount of lengthways give.  Even if cut exactly at 45° the left side will not be the same as the right side.

A few years ago I bough a nice RTW summer dress made of a poly satin cut on the bias.  Laid flat on the table the armholes were the same but as soon as it was hung vertical (on me) one armhole dropped right down and showed my bra but the other one didn't.  No amount of tweeking and fiddling could put it right.

My advice would be to cut on straight grain, just make sure that it's big enough to allow full arm movement, and long enough to cover your bum without hanging below the top worn above.  Effectively just a loose lining.
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Ohsewsimple on October 21, 2020, 12:07:25 PM
I think I’d do it on the straight grain too.  To make bias behave properly you really need centre front and centre back seams. 
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 21, 2020, 12:12:01 PM
I'm so pleased to have asked!  Thank you for your lovely replies, I'd have just assumed it would be ok!
It's not really a heavy satin, so I wonder...
But I could have centre front and back seams...

Off to pull and tug at it in different directions now...
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Ohsewsimple on October 21, 2020, 12:25:18 PM
@Bodgeitandscarper this may  interest you and shows what I think of as the correct layout. 
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/06/bias-101
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: jintie on October 21, 2020, 12:29:52 PM
Synthetics cling most. If it is a silk woven satin, I would cut it on the grain.
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 21, 2020, 12:51:32 PM
The fabris is this one. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-MTR-Navy-Anti-Static-Shiny-Lining-Fabric-Dress-Coat-Jacket-150cm-Wide/283771227246?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

It has no weight to it, so I'm thinking it won't drop a lot.  And I have three metres of it, so may just go for a bias cut and see what happens.  I really want the give across the back, I hate anything that pulls tight.

Thanks @Ohsewsimple that's an interesting article - as an aside, I'm now wondering if it's worth subscribing to Threads.
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: maliw on October 21, 2020, 17:42:21 PM
I made one a while ago from a satin nightie, I cut it on the bias and it was and still is fine. :[
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on October 21, 2020, 17:54:23 PM
I've cut it out - on the bias.  We'll see how it turns out.  The only little problem was I couldn't find my pattern pieces that I use for sleeveless tops, so I had to get one out and trace new patterns.
I realised that my cutting board usefully has diagonal lines, and the fabric was thin enough to see them, so they are most definitely on the bias.  I cut the front tilted one way, and the back tilted the other, hope that is right.
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Catllar on October 23, 2020, 13:48:11 PM
@Ohsewsimple , that article is reallyuseful so I've saved it. It's sparked an idea - I have a really lightweight woolly ( probably not) tweedy length of fabric that's been gathering dust for years - I wonder if it would translate into a bias cut dress of some sort? Hmm. As it cost me the princely sum of 5 euros for a 3 metre length it won't be a lot of money wasted if it doesn't work, and I have plenty to play with.

Good luck with your top Bodgeitand, I'm sure it'll do the job just fine!
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on January 04, 2021, 11:34:22 AM
And I finally finished it -

  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

Yup, the armholes and neck bindings are different, the neck didn't seem to sit vey flat (although it's better with a good pressing), so did the armholes differently.
And the back is meant to be longer than the front, most of my tops are like that.
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Greybird on January 04, 2021, 12:22:39 PM
That's lovely - very wearable. There's something about satin binding I really like.
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: UttaRetch on January 04, 2021, 15:39:06 PM
@Bodgeitandscarper: has it solved the initial problem?
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on January 04, 2021, 16:33:03 PM
@Bodgeitandscarper: has it solved the initial problem?
@UttaRetch it most certainly has :D
Title: Re: Camisole type thingy.
Post by: UttaRetch on January 04, 2021, 16:38:43 PM
I have a fat arse, so it should work for me too.  :laughing: