The Sewing Place
The Emporia => Patchwork & Quilting ... Welcome to the Darkside => Topic started by: Sara-S on April 11, 2021, 11:03:15 AM
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Here is my latest project;
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Look closely and you’ll see how many places that don’t match up. I know what’s nice about it, but what isn’t is my ability to measure & cut accurately. My cuts are straight.When I cut them, I think I’m measuring accurately, but clearly I am not.
Yes, I know, “Measure twice, cut once”. If that worked for me, I wouldn’t need to start this thread.
So I would like to open a discussion of techniques for correct measurement.
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Sara, how much "off" do you think they are - I can't tell from the photograph.
I find my small squares are off - I'm doing triangular stuff) - and the smaller the piece of fabric the more a few millimtres shows :(
Await experienced helpful answers with you :)
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If your four patch blocks are not matching up with the single square blocks, it might be that your seam allowance is the cause, not the cutting and measuring.
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If your seam matching is out by just a smidgin it may just be slight variation in the seam rather than inaccurate cutting. I pin every point where seams need to match and it often takes a bit of judicious stretching to get them to match up. If an odd seam just won't then I will unpick and restitch about an inch.
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It's not just accurate cutting, it's trying to stitch 'scant' quarter inch seams too. I've yet to master it. :rolleyes:
I felt more comfortable when piecing on my old Bernina. I could eyeball a fairly decent seam on that machine but am struggling with the Janome...clear foot? Different markings?
I wonder whether I should buy the quarter-inch foot to finally get the accuracy.
I try not to let it bother me too much...after all, who's going to notice?
Love the colours on your quilt @Sara-S :loveit:
Sandra.
xxx
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Do you use a quilting ruler i.e. one marked with a grid? If so what size ruler do you use?
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I tried my hand at patchwork a few years ago - Xmas table runner and placemats - just to dip my toe in the water. Decided it wasn't really my thing but what I discovered was that my so-called quarter-inch foot and default needle placement were out - it was not exactly 1/4".
So I experimented and settled on using a different foot (forget which exactly) instead - one that had a wide slot for zig-zag and then used needle placement adjustment to move the needle to the right until it dropped exactly 1/4" from the rightmost edge of the foot. That improved things immensely.
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I’ll answer what I can.
1) Where things don’t meet up, it’s about 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch.Doesn’t sound like much, but it adds up with many pieces.
2) I do use quilting rulers- I have several in different sizes.
3) I move my needle one position to the right to get my scant 1/4” seam.
Even when I am not using to many pieces, measuring has always been my weak point.
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I had the same experience as @HenriettaMaria - my quarter inch foot wasn't a quarter of an inch. I got a new quarter inch foot with that guide thing that drops down at the side so that you can follow the edge of your fabric easily, and my seams improved vastly. Even more so when I started shifting the needle slightly to make the seams a 'scant' quarter inch.
There is also a technique for butting seams up to each other - Imi has written a tutorial for it here. (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP0qKYHXg7rX-OJhx39t0Ze5ZxtutvL7EncNoLcRIsIaZJU-p39GNhyJE27MrS2aQ?key=ZGt6NDdyX3hKakJubTNEYnU3ZEw2M2gwNzA5S2l3)
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As others have said it more likely to be the seams which are out.
I always pin where two seams meet before stitching. If the two pieces are different lengths it is usually a case of eyeballing them to see which one is out. Usually it is just a case of restitching the one where the seam allowance is too small. Because I press both allowances to the same side it's not necessary to remove the first row of stitching. If one of the seams has too big a seam allowance it is necessary to rip out.
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I’ve seen that tutorial before and can put seams together pretty well.
So let’s assume that my original premise is correct; my seams are accurate but my measuring isn’t. I really need some tips on accurate measurements.
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As long as you were consistent it should be okay.
Do you mix between rulers in the same project?
Use a rotary cutter?
Because most rulers are transparent, I find I have to look at the same sort of angle all the time. If I look from directly overhead sometimes, and then from a side slant another time I can get the line to 'shift' the thickness of the ruler itself - did that make sense?
Don't use the lines on the cutting mat for guides, they aren't accurate enough.
Have a play cutting up something you don't like and see what might make a difference?
Are you ambidextrous? Maybe using one hand all the time might help?
Just throwing out ideas :)
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Unfortunately, my measuring errors are not consistent from cut to cut.
I do use a rotary cutter and avoid changing rulers. But I have tended to use the measurements on the cutting mat. Based on your suggestion, I will avoid that.
As to the viewing angle, I am honestly not sure, but will pay attention to it.
Once this project is done (it’s close) I will take some scrap fabric and experiment with some of the things you have said.
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Just a thought - are you making sure that the grain of the fabric is straight before you measure and cut?
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I find that the inch marking lines on quilting rulers can be quite thick, especially the yellow ones, and obscure the edge that I am using to line up the ruler. Its not always possible but if I can, I try to use the little marks in between the inch lines for more accurate placement of the ruler.
I know you can cut multiple layers of fabric with a rotary cutter but the more layers there are, the more potential there is for slippage between layers. I don't usually cut more than a double layer.
If you're cutting multiple strips it pays to recheck the squaring up every couple of strips and take a smidge off the cut edge if necessary before continuing.
Do you have any anti slip things on your ruler? The little stick on rings help keep the ruler still. Inaccurate cutting is most likely because of ruler slippage. You can get handles that
attach to a ruler by suction cups. It might help to have more direct downwards pressure on the ruler. You can also get rotary cutters with ergonomically designed handles for more direct downward pressure.
I also find that the larger rotary blades (45mm) are better than the smaller ones.
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Sometimes I get a problem cutting, especially longer cuts, because the arthritis in my left hand causes me to loosen the pressure on the ruler. Occasionally I notice that I slightly drag or tilt the rotary cutter and this pulls the fabric a little away from the ruler's edge. And to cap it all, I have an astigmatism which means I don't always see perfectly straight!
Do you think some of your fabrics are a little loosely woven and go out of shape a wee bit? If so, spray starch is your friend.
I often re-check the measurements of the pieces I am about to sew, too.
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I find that the inch marking lines on quilting rulers can be quite thick, especially the yellow ones, and obscure the edge that I am using to line up the ruler. Its not always possible but if I can, I try to use the little marks in between the inch lines for more accurate placement of the ruler.
Definitely, I don't like the rulers with thick yellow markings. My favourite is the Olfa one with thin black markings but I know that @Iminei will say otherwise.
I know you can cut multiple layers of fabric with a rotary cutter but the more layers there are, the more potential there is for slippage between layers. I don't usually cut more than a double layer.
Not P&Q, but this photos show what can happen with (professional) cutting through multiple layers.
This time last year when I was sewing scrubs I had one batch which was pre-cut for me - and never again! The inaccuracy was dreadful and all I could do was trim away whichever bit happened to be bigger so that the two sides matched - without knowing whether one half had grown or the other side had shrunk. :o
With the facings for the V-neck I puzzled over it for quite a while before I realised that the facings were with a smaller neckhole than the main piece. I know I wasn't the only one with that problem, there was some discussion on the FB group about it and I know that my photos helped at least one other person who just couldn't work it out.
If large professional equipment cutting through multiple layers can do that then it's not surprising that mere mortals using just a hand held ruler and rotary cutter can also get slippage.
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Front main piece folded in half
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Facing folded in half
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facing placed on top of bodice; initially it looked as though it was too short.
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facing aligned with the shoulder seams and trimmed to match the bodice neckline.
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This is a great topic for discussion. I'm stepping back in to do some quilting as I have a new Juki sewing machine. I'm waiting for a plexiglass insert to arrive so I can sit my machine flush with my sewing cabinet. It's too high up for me to quilt on. In the mean time, I'm practicing a few things.
Accurate seam allowances - Sewing ledge (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MIZVeB00Jk) Her hacks are great and I'm starting to use them.
How to Cut Straight (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2f82V8g0qs)
How to Sew Straight (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQKh7BgG6Jc&t=53s)
How to Iron for Quilting (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GI4Q22GdcOE)
New cutting blade, new blade, and clean your machine. I'm still learning these techniques and keep going over them when I'm working on any project. I do hope these videos help you. They have given me a lot of food for thought and techniques to use.
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Perfect points everytime (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP0qKYHXg7rX-OJhx39t0Ze5ZxtutvL7EncNoLcRIsIaZJU-p39GNhyJE27MrS2aQ?key=ZGt6NDdyX3hKakJubTNEYnU3ZEw2M2gwNzA5S2l3)
You dont even need to iron before you do this .... just try it out on some contrasting fabrics
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@Sara-S Pretty much covered by all the other posts, just my penn'orth now!
Check the grain - get it as straight as possible, and check regularly that it hasn't drifted. With a sharp blade you can cut up to 4 layers (carefully!)
Find the trick that works for you to align the edges when sewing - seam guide, bit of tape, whatever. Cut 3x2½ squares and sew them together using your best effort at a scant ¼" seam. the centre square shoule be 2" between the seams, more and you aren't taking in enough, less and you're taking too much.
Cut your pieces a thread or two too large and trim the sections to the right size - not 100% reliable and tedious to trim lots of edges, but sometimes just that sliver off the edge will make it fit.
Now, I like the Omnigrid rulers with the yellow markings either side of the actual size line. Cutting with the outside yellow line gives you that thread or so to play with. Using the mat grid requires careful postioning and, again which side of the line do you cut?
Keep the cutter blade sharp - you can get sharpeners which will work for a few times, but sooner or later you need to change the blade, at which point you wonder why you didn't do it last week/month/year.
If you are cutting wof strips, make sure the selvedges are properly lined up or you will get a V-shaped strip. When cutting long lines, take your time and pause and walk your hand up the ruler every few inches to keep it steady. Some people use a handle to hold the ruler - one of those shower handles you attach with suckers.
If you're making a pattern with alternating plain squares, don't cut them until you've made the pieced blocks. Check the sizes and if they've come out bigger or smaller than expected, you can adjust the size of the plain squares.
Remember it's the 'p'-word. Practice. Perfection is only for God. ;)
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Jumping in to ask : I've got a very vintage Singer - does such a thing as a 1/4" foot exist for this ? Currently using the generic general foot with a bit of sticky tape marking the seam in the machine bed. Not ideal.
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You need one of these (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/singer-sewing-machine-seam-cloth-1932780404)
It's full adjustable to whichever width you want.
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I have a 1/4" foot for my singers - I got it from the featherweight shop before shipping prices got so high.
They had a nice article about different 1/4 inch feet - let me see if I can find it . . .
https://singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/quarter-1-4-foot-comparison
The foot I bought fits on all my vintage Singers apart from the back-clamping 66.
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@Sara-S The other thing(s) that crossed my mind - are you standing up to cut the fabric? Standing is best but unless you have a surface at the right height it is very hard on your back. The best height is like a kitchen work top. If you stand in front of it you should be able to put your hands down flat on it without stooping. It also helps if you can walk round it and cut from either side so you don't have to move the fabric once you've made the clean edge cut. Putting blocks under the legs of a table can raise it to the right level. Stand behind the cutter; like using a saw, if you're straight and balanced it wil be easier to keep the cutter and ruler from slipping.
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You need one of these (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/singer-sewing-machine-seam-cloth-1932780404)
It's full adjustable to whichever width you want.
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Hmm. I don't have a measurement guide on the needle plate so I'd still need the sticky tape guide, wouldn't I?
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@Deafoldbat yes I stand when I am cutting. I use a very steady table which is nice & tall, like me.
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I was having trouble with the 1/4 inch foot, it was twisting about and not accurate. I decided to take it off and use the markings on my machine but then found this little gadget and I love it!
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You get 2 of them along with a plastic measure guide with holes for your needle to accurately place the guide. It sticks to the plate very firmly and is very hard to remove, I found that twisting it and pulling on the red tape helps lift it off. It leaves no residue, a bit like those lint removers that you rinse off. It is brilliant and cost I think £2.95 :)
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Thought I added this photo :facepalm:
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I have finished the top of my quilt and squared it up. I even managed to measure the backing accurately. When I pinned them together, they actually matched up!
I took out the folding table (the one I used to use as my sewing table) so I had enough room to work.
I also took some good advice and cut it a little big at first, then trimmed it down, as you can fix “too big” more easily that “too small”.
Nice to know I am making some progress.
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Have you looked at the Cot quilt from start to finish tut in the Darkside ??? Regards layering and binding???
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Hmm. I don't have a measurement guide on the needle plate so I'd still need the sticky tape guide, wouldn't I?
@Catllar No. because you would measure from the needle to the edge of the guide where the fabric butts against it. Once set you just make sure the edge of the fabric just touches the guide - with no gaps and no wrinkling.
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I've contacted Helen Howes to see if she has anything like that. Thanks @BrendaP .
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She indeed does have one of those, so I'll order it forthwith or fivewith! She's an interesting lady, isn't she but she does have some fun stuff!
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Accurate measuring? Yeah.....nah, I just do fpp.....soooooooooo forgiving! :laughing: :thumbsup:
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@Catllar yes Helen Howes has some great stuff for older machines, I have bought some bits and pieces for my 3 old Singer machines from her. Her partner died early last year, and I am glad to see her site becoming active again. I follow her blog.
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Accurate measuring? Yeah.....nah, I just do fpp.....soooooooooo forgiving! :laughing: :thumbsup:
'Tis witchcraft... :scream:
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My seam guide arrived from Helen Howes yesterday - now I need some new blocks to try it out - hint, hint @Iminei !!
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ahem .... (https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT8xc1YnCDMP3emn1nS9vCqmb2uwcNISfODVg&usqp=CAU)