The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Technical Help => Topic started by: SkoutSews on February 05, 2021, 15:31:15 PM
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I'm making the boiled wool coat, no. 9 of Ottobre 5/2020, from a lovely rich purple-coloured boiled wool. The pattern is for an unlined coat and, when I've been looking through my books for tips on sewing boiled wool, they all say that it is usually made-up unlined.
As all the seams are lapped and edgestitched, the inside of the coat will be neat enough, and in any case the fabric does not fray.
I want to add a lining, firstly for warmth, and secondly because it will be easier to wear and put on and take off. That thing of trying to put your arm into the coat sleeve and ending up with your jumper sleeve pushed halfway up your arm and twisted is just horrible!
My question is, is there any good reason not to line the coat?
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Ottobre magazine 5/2020 (https://www.ottobredesign.com/subscription/single-2.php?lang=en&i=200123&t=irto)
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I couldn't not line wool because I would probably find it prickly even through clothes.
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I’d have to line wool to. There seem to be quite a few coat patterns without lining. Seems weird to me. But it’s an easy make then.
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Both with me on comfort, then!
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I think at the very least I'd want to try to line the sleeves... or else, knowing me, I'd never get my arms in! :rolleyes:
I do like the look of the magazine.
Is it very 'Burda-esque' or is the tracing a little kinder on the old eyesite? 8) 8) 8)
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I don't think boiled wool is particularly itchy but I'd also want to line it. Because I line everything ;)
@Lemon Syllabub I find Ottobre an absolute nightmare to trace - all the lines are the same colour, unlike Burda which has different colours for different sizes. I have to laboriously trace over the lines with coloured pens before tracing through paper. Other people may think differently, of course :) x
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@Nevis5
Wow! Thanks for the advice.
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I have two boiled wool jackets - both bought not made by me. One is lined, one isn't. The lined one is much easier to slip on over clothing as mentioned above.
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Thanks for the replies. @Flobear, it's good to hear of a RTW lined jacket. So it's not verboten!
I'm going to line it. I've started sewing up today and there are a lot of fibres coming off the fabric. Without a lining, anything underneath it would be covered in purple bits. That's a third reason for lining, then.
@Lemon Syllabub, I usually get on well with Ottobre patterns. They're very wearable and seem to be a close match to my shape, certainly better than the Big 4. Tracing is a bit tedious, but I find it easier than printing and taping pdfs, for example. It's a matter of preference in the end. The instructions are sketchy, so it helps to have some prior experience of assembling garments.
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I like Ottobre patterns....once you ‘get your eye in ‘ the pieces are easy to spot.
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@SkoutSews yes, they do look very wearable and it's good to find a company whose block resembles your own measurements.
I've recently discovered the dubious joys of PDF patterns... instant gratification :dance: but yes, a faff to stick together and then they're so bulky to store. -<
@Efemera so that's one more skill I need to develop!
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Just to add, @Lemon Syllabub I don't actually trace the Ottobre patterns. Instead I put a large piece of corrugated cardboard (salvaged from packaging of online purchases) on the table, then a piece of paper (from a roll of paper table covering) and secure the pattern sheet over the top. I then mark the paper by sticking a pin through the outline of the pattern piece. It's a straightforward 'join the dots' exercise after that.
It's not my idea, I read it on this site or its predecessor.
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@SkoutSews That is inspired! :thumbsup:
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I've done a couple of boiled wool jackets, one Lekala and one Burda. Both unlined because of their style, but they do stick to sleeves a bit when taking on and off. Without lining, boiled wool is nowhere near as warm as you might think it is and so it's worth doing if you want it to be more coat weight, rather than layering jacket weight.
I love Ottobre designs and their fit and drafting is really consistent. Their clothes are so wearable apart from just now and again, they look as though they've spent too much time scoffing magic mushrooms in the arctic forests of Finland and come up with something really weird.
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@SkoutSews @Lemon Syllabub you may find one of these (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/prym610940_tracing-wheel) quicker than a pin
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I made the Stylearc Parker coat from boiled wool and I didn't line it nor did I finish the seams by overlocking or whatever. I love that coat - it turned out really well. I have no trouble getting the sleeves on and off probably because they are quite wide. So it really depends on how fitted the coat is and that one looks fairly fitted. A number of the Stylearc coats are not lined maybe because of all that lovely sunny weather in Oz. I always think that boiled wool gives you permission not to line. But it's one of those things - personal preference.
I'm thinking of doing the Parker coat again in a combination of Abraham Moon tartan and Harris tweed. I'd be tempted to line the sleeves and bodice to the waist seam with that one.
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@SkoutSews @Lemon Syllabub you may find one of these (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/prym610940_tracing-wheel) quicker than a pin
Oooooh, technology! Thanks for the tip, I feel a shopping trip coming on......
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@Tamnymore I liked the Parker coat too, but I didn't have enough fabric for that one. A half-lining is a good idea and I did consider it, but in for a penny, as they say....also I thought the full lining would be better at preventing seating.
Moon tartan and Harris tweed sounds lovely.
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I've made Vogue 8933 in boiled wool, and not lined it, doesn't stick too much in the arms. I've also made it in double faced wool where I did line the sleeves as it was a denser fabric, the boiled wool had more stretch.
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Another nice pattern, @grannysyb
I did wonder if stretch would be an issue, though my fabric does not have much stretch. Guess I'll find out eventually :rolleyes:
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Without a lining, it's a cardi.
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@sewmuchmore @SkoutSews @Lemon Syllabub
I ordered one of these:
https://www.wawak.com/Cutting-Measuring/Patterns-Supplies/needle-point-tracing-wheel/?sku=CUT17
just before I realized I never use tracing paper for marking anymore. Then realized the needle points on this wheel are excellent for transferring patterns.
I line pretty much everything made of wool - no matter what. Plus if it is too scratchy (made from too many cheaper short fibers) I don't buy it at all. I'm allergic to lanolin and really cheap wool is like wearing something that is constantly injecting an allergen into my skin.
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The coat was finished just in time for the cool spring and is back in use now. I didn't line it in the end and I'm happy with the result. To be more accurate, the pockets are lined, though the rest of the coat isn't! I made the 'no lining' decision after I'd done the pockets :rolleyes: I'm hoping the lining will help keep the pockets from stretching out of shape.
It's not too scratchy as there's always a clothing layer between fabric and skin. The unlined sleeves are wide enough that there's no difficulty putting the coat on. As for warmth, it's a between-seasons coat and is warm enough for that. It's definitely more of a coat, rather than a cardi/'coatigan'.