The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Sonatine on October 24, 2018, 14:10:57 PM
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I didn't want to put this in my diary thread as I think I'm going to be asking a lot of questions along the way! This is very new territory for me.
I'm going to attempt making a winter coat. So far for patterns:
I love this one (https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/456297128/1950s-two-way-coat-sewing-pattern?ref=search_recently_viewed-4) but it's too big and I don't have any experience grading patterns down. It's exactly what I'm looking for though!
I also like this one (https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/479152410/1950s-princess-double-breasted-coat?ref=related-1) and it's only two inches too big on the bust, which should be small enough for me to be able to take it in or it might even fit over thick layers.
Then there's also M7478 (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/m7478-misses-miss-petite-fit-and-flare-shawl-collar-coats#.W9Bp9Ocp-0U) which might be easier to sew / fit as it's a modernised reissue, I still like it but it's not as striking as the other two in my opinion. I like the line drawings a lot more than the photos though so it could just be modern models not having the exaggerated tiny waists of the 1950s drawings on the other two patterns.
I would really appreciate any thoughts on pattern choice or if anyone knows of any other similar patterns. I also have a slight problem finding fabric as wool or high % wool mix will probably get eaten by moths so I need something largely synthetic, so I'm trawling the web now.
Excited to get started on this!
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Take a look at Vogue V8346 here (https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v8346). Is this the sort of thing you are looking for?
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I’d say go for the M7478 if you feel uncomfortable grading up or down. With this pattern you have a range of sizes nested, which makes it easier. Looking at the line art, I see many opportunities to nip in the waist further.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0225/9227/products/M7478.gif?v=1492830089)
I’m not a fan of polyester, and would definitely go for wool or a wool/polyester mix with a high wool content - but that’s just my opinion ;)
I’d highly recommend you make a muslin while you’re searching for the right fabric. You also need to think about interfacing.... fusible or sewn in would be the first decision you have to make there.
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I think that (M7478) is a gorgeous coat. If I went in more at the waist I would most definitely be making it!
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I love it too, @Acorn , have been looking at the pattern for ages but I too have no waist and to try and squash it round me would ruin those lovely lines. Good luck @Sonatine ! Coat making is time consuming but not difficult as Fran says. x
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Thanks all, M7478 ordered!
I've remembered some medium weight charcoal grey wool blend suiting with contrasting lining in my stash, I think I have enough as it was purchased to make a jacket and two skirts. I'd love to be able to use up something I've already bought instead of buying more, expecially as this is a first attempt at a coat. Would it be possible to use it but to interline the whole thing with cotton flannel for warmth? It's back at my parents' house so I can't feel it until Saturday and it might be much lighter weight than I think in which case I'd definitely have to find something else.
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@Sonatine you could certainly use cotton flannel for interlining - I used to have a book by Kenneth King (American sewing god) who recommends flannel specifically. It would make a very warm coat! Just make sure it's not too thick otherwise your coat will be bulky. Good luck!
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Having said about using existing fabric I've just seen this rainbow weave wool (https://www.1stforfabrics.co.uk/product/rainbow-weave-100-wool/) and fallen slightly in love with it. £90 seems a lot when I'm not confident though.
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@Sonatine if you do get that fabric can you report back please? I spotted it a few days ago and was thinking about it for a jacket
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I agree that the Vogue pattern has lots of possibilities to nip the waist in.
If this is your first attempt at a coat, and if you are not sure of the pattern/fit I do suggest making a toile. No need to line it or do all the interfacings etc, just the main pieces for fitting purposes. Can you get hold of an old blanket? Charity shop maybe.
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@Sonatine you never regret your extravagances! :)
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The only thing to be aware of if you use flannel as a lining, is that if its a fairly narrow fitting sleeve the lining can grab on to the material of the top you are wearing and drag the sleeve up as you put the coat on and of course vise versa when you take the coat off.
Maybe consider something silky for the sleeve lining instead?
BTW that fabric is lovely.
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@Pinkstar the flannel is only for interlining if I use a main fabric that doesn't seem warm enough, so it would still have a silky lining for ease of wearing, otherwise yes I could see the sleeves being an issue like you describe!
Found lovely wool blend meltons in the market for £4p/m, nothing more than 3m though so I need to go back later to see if there's any longer pieces in.
The other option is a drapey mottled grey 100% wool from the fabric shop rather than the market, £9.50p/m and would possibly need interlining because it's not very thick. There's definitely plenty of it though.
So although I love the rainbow weave wool I think it might be a bit too expensive for this project because I need so much of it and there are other cheaper options available.
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@Sonatine lol sorry that will teach me for speed reading 0_0
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Minerva have a good selection of wool and wool blend coatings, some more competitively priced than others though.
https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric&type=Coating&sort=latest&page=1&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=Sub-Carousel-2 (https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric&type=Coating&sort=latest&page=1&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=Sub-Carousel-2)
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I think the McCall's pattern is fabulous! Nipping in a waist alteration, if needed, is incredibly simple.
Always best to remember those 50's styles were designed to be worn with an extremely torturous girdle or corset.
To save money, I bought an 80/20 wool/poly blend when I took my first tailoring course. BIG mistake! 100% wool is so much easier to work with - though many overcoat weights are often 90/10 wool/nylon these days.
I'd also stay away from stripes for this first project. I find mottled colors especially easy to work with. They can be quite forgiving.
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Really useful articles plus a couple of excellent tutorials under the Key Topics heading on the right hand side links bar -
The Great Coat Sew Along (http://coatsewalong.blogspot.com)
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Thanks @Morgan that looks so helpful!
Going off the pattern sizing I have the exact measurements of a size - so in theory it should fit but I'll make a mock up anyway to be sure because of not knowing how much ease they've allowed at various places.
Also I bought my fabric today! From the market, my inner bargain hunter kicked in and reminded me that I'm a student haha. It's a reversible wool blend, bright blue on one side and navy on the other. I love both of them so deciding which to use might be tricky. Navy seems more practical but the bright blue would be so cheerful when it's miserable out. I might use one for the main coat and the other for the cuffs and collar (I'm going for view B with the large shawl collar). The piece was 6m so I bought it all, and it was only £4p/m. It didn't photograph very well, the colour is closest to the first photo but slightly deeper. The close up doesn't have the right colour at all but it shows the slight texture.
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Nice colour, @Sonatine! and what a bargain!! Lucky you having somewhere close you can buy fabrics from like that.
And good luck on the coach tonight with your sewing machine! Wow, you must have strong arms :D :sew: !
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@Nevis5 thanks! I've managed to escape carrying the machine because a friend has offered me hers for while I'm back, which is good because the fabric weighs a lot and fills my cabin-luggage sized suitcase, I'm not sure I could juggle both on public transport. It's not too bad carrying it normally though, it's an Elna Lotus so it doesn't weigh a huge amount.
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Gorgeous colour! Hope you get it made before the bitter weather kicks in.
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Some thoughts and questions now that I have the pattern in my hands -
1) The collar is cut as one piece with the centre front pieces, so I can't use a contrasting fabric or the other side of the main fabric for it.
2) The whole thing is interlined - my fabric is fairly heavy and warm already so what should I use for this? The requirements helpfully just say "interlining fabrics".
3) There is no reference to interfacing, only a front facing that is identical to the front sections and is cut from the main fabric. In fact there is no tailoring at all. Is it best to leave it like this or to add interfacing?
4) The instructions for the buttonholes are left off of the English instructions but are in the Spanish ones. It is the last step and just says "make buttonholes at the marks". I was going to do them by hand as I'm using an unfamiliar machine, I've read it's better to do them earlier in the construction but the facing won't be attached then. There's also no interfacing to stabalise them which I would have thought was important, any ideas what I should do?
Thank you to everyone who has been replying, this is much less daunting knowing that there are people far more knowledgable and experienced than me helping!
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It's along time since I made anything as complex as a proper winter coat, but I'd say that if the underlining is more for stability than warmth then a lightweight, but fairly closely woven cotton should be enough. Maybe craft cotton or even sheeting, but make sure it gets a fairly hot machine wash to pre-shrink it.
I think that if it was me making this I would use small pieces of iron-on interfacing applied to the interlining where the buttons and buttonholes are to go.
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I think I would definitely interface the fronts and collar using something that is not too stiff. I'm not sure I would underline but can't really say without seeing the fabric you are using.
Were you wanting to do bound buttonholes or hand sewn buttonholes? If you do bound ones then you need to do them early on in the process then an aperture is cut in the facing, the edges turned under and hand sewn round the buttonhole.
If you are hand sewing the buttonholes have a look at this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLudKgoSgLA) by the Yorkshire Tailor. I've done a lot of hand sewn buttonholes in the past but still found it very useful.
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I have previously marked on buttonhole positions with a bit of basting thread and then tried then out the positioning with safety pins before cutting them once the coat is made. I've often wanted to shift them about a smidge for the actual hang of the finished thing, so maybe that's a bonus of doing them later on?
(If it coincides with snooker on the telly, I'm always happy. I reckon one hand-sewn buttonhole per frame is a good speed!)
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(If it coincides with snooker on the telly, I'm always happy. I reckon one hand-sewn buttonhole per frame is a good speed!)
Depends who's playing. ;)
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Sonatine, reading about your coat plans has made me want to get my sewing machine out again and make a Winter’s coat. (I haven’t done much of anything at all since March because of health problems).
I’ve made two coats in the past, one was the Lisette for Butterick B6385 and last year I made the Silvia coatigan by Schnitten. I’m not familiar with the pattern you’re going to use and am intrigued that it says the whole thing is interlined. I interlined both of my coats but for different reasons.
B6385 is quite structured and the wool I used was also structured so I only interlined the ‘body’ of the coat for extra warmth. I used winceyette which I sewed to each individual front and back satin lining piece before I constructed the lining. I didn’t interline the sleeve lining. I then sewed the finished lining to the finished outer coat as per the instructions.
For the coatigan I interlined almost ALL of it but this was because the fabric was a boucle that needed to be stabilised. Again I used winceyette but this time I sewed it to each individual outer coat piece before construction. I didn’t interline the front facings; instead I used a black iron on interfacing to give the fabric stability and structure. Once I’d made the coat I then lined it.
Not sure if any of that helps you but basically what I’m saying is think about why you want to interline your coat and how it might affect the finished appearance.
Also, on the B6385 I used iron on interfacing on the front facings and on the collar. Like you, I am surprised that your coat pattern doesn’t suggest something similar. So another thought might be, interfacing, interlining, lining....these terms all sound so similar, might there be typo on your pattern???
Anyway, good luck with your coat, really pleased I read this thread. I bought a pdf for the Oslo coat pattern by Tessuti a while back so I think I might just go and print it out. :) :) :)
Happy sewing
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@DaisyChain I'm so glad that you found this thread too! Thank you for the advice on interlining and it's made me so happy that this has encouraged you to sew again, especially since I only decided to make my coat after encouragement from people on this forum. That pattern is gorgeous and it looks so cosy.
I think I'm going to go for interlining with cotton flannel for warmth after all, the weather today has made me realise that the finished coat will never be too warm. The pattern shows it cut for all of the pieces (except facings and linings) and then sewn to the main fabric and treated as one piece, so I'm going to follow that and see how it goes. Plus fusible interfacing to stabilise the collar, pocket edges and buttonholes even though it's omitted from the pattern.
I was thinking hand sewn buttonholes not bound, that's definitely beyond my capabilities. In which case I'll leave them until last to check the placement, thanks for that tip @Popeye09
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Really looking forward to some pics on this ... then I can commission you to make a replica of my favorite coat of all time ever, which is sadly like all my favourite things, falling apart :(
Cmon @Sonatine pics please?
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@Iminei there's nothing interesting to take photos of yet! Today and tomorrow are going to be spent cutting and fitting, but I'll add pics as soon as I have something resembling a coat haha
It's taking a mammoth 15m of fabric overall, so if I disappear I've probably drowned in it :fabric:
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2) The whole thing is interlined - my fabric is fairly heavy and warm already so what should I use for this? The requirements helpfully just say "interlining fabrics".3) There is no reference to interfacing, only a front facing that is identical to the front sections and is cut from the main fabric. In fact there is no tailoring at all. Is it best to leave it like this or to add interfacing?4) The instructions for the buttonholes are left off of the English instructions but are in the Spanish ones. It is the last step and just says "make buttonholes at the marks". I was going to do them by hand as I'm using an unfamiliar machine, I've read it's better to do them earlier in the construction but the facing won't be attached then. There's also no interfacing to stabalise them which I would have thought was important, any ideas what I should do?
Sometimes it helps to take a step back and bear in mind - the guide provided with the pattern is only a Suggested Guide for Order of Assembly. They are only ever basic suggestion guides and they are rarely (substitute) tutorials.
Often it's more useful to read through the supplied guide, then decide what you want to do and then write out your own preparation and sewing plan. A sewing plan is more than a guide to assembly.
First step in the plan is to decide whether you want to create your coat using a Soft Tailoring method or a Traditional Tailoring method or a combination of both. (Soft Tailoring uses fusible interfacings and in general is perhaps more familiar to modern dressmaking approaches than traditional tailoring techniques which 'build' the structure.)
Once you decide on which method, the next step is to do your sampling for the combination(s) of interfacing and fabric in the different parts of the coat or jacket. This can be important because it can affect whether and where you make adjustments for turn of cloth on your pattern. (Pay particular attention to turn of cloth for collars, lapels, all edges and sleeve cap seams.)
When you've settled on your fabrics including interfacing and lining, you make and check your stitching samples & all the seam techniques plus you test how you will apply any trims along with with your buttonhole method and construction. This matters a lot because it can affect your assembly order and the materials you will use. (Usually on coats it comes down to bound buttonholes or hand made buttonholes) This is the time in the process where you look at the tutorials, your books and so on.
After sorting out the sampling and deciding which sewing techniques you will use, now is the time to start writing out your sewing plan.
Re your question at no. 3.
Strongly recommend that you interface, unless you particularly want the fabric to collapse.
https://fashion-incubator.com/interfacing_10_tips/ (https://fashion-incubator.com/interfacing_10_tips/)
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Cutting out is very slow progress but I'm getting there. I've cut all of the main fabric and lining now, but even though I was really careful a lot of the pieces seem distorted now that I've unpinned the tissue. I don't have enough fabric to recut so I'm just going to have to hope that it works out once I'm putting it together.
I've had to cut a size smaller than my measurements, the finished garment measurements on the pattern pieces have such a huge amount of ease that it won't have the silhouette I want, even over winter layers. So I took my measurements again, this time wearing the most layers I would wear, and compared those measurements to the finished ones. The next size down seemed to have a much more reasonable amount of ease and it's comparable to my current coat. I've also added two inches at the hem as it would barely cover my knees otherwise - I think I must have abnormally long thighs!
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but even though I was really careful a lot of the pieces seem distorted now that I've unpinned the tissue.
Presumably you needed to use the tissue to cut more than one piece (i.e. main fabric and underlining / lining). It's always best, if you can, to leave the pattern piece attached to the main fabric and do not disturb until you need the piece.
Many of us, including me, learnt that the pattern pieces are numbered in order of the construction given in the instructions so you can pile them up in order of use.
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@Ploshkin yes unfortunately I have to cut each piece multiple times and because of the nature of the cutting layouts (which I have to follow as I've not got spare fabric) I have to cut all of the pieces to be able to access the ones needed early on. It's not too bad though, I'm just neatening off the edges once I've attached the interlining and the fabric is quite stable because it's almost felted, I think the issue was mainly with my cutting out. Most of the projects I've done recently have been self-drafted and I could just draw the pieces straight onto the fabric mathmatically and know that they would be accurate.
With the interfacing for the buttons and buttonholes, will it matter if it's attached to the main front piece or the front facing (identical pieces cut from the main fabric)? I've been puzzling it out in my head and I can't work it out! Just because I've already attached the interlining to the main pieces so I'd rather not remove it if I can just interface the facing.
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@Ploshkin
With the interfacing for the buttons and buttonholes, will it matter if it's attached to the main front piece or the front facing (identical pieces cut from the main fabric)? I've been puzzling it out in my head and I can't work it out! Just because I've already attached the interlining to the main pieces so I'd rather not remove it if I can just interface the facing.
The usual way is to cut away space around openings, pockets , darts, pleats and anywhere that there will be bulk or detail.
For bound buttonholes, when the facing is the same fabric as the shell, then interface both.
The purpose of the interfacing in this case is to stabilise the fabric and to support the stitches for the bound buttonholes. I like to interface with a light or medium, knit fusible and then use a letterbox method with silk organza to create the openings.
The interfacing you use and how depends on your preferred method for making bound buttonholes.
Interlining is an extra layer for warmth and often swings free between the interfaced shell and the lining.
It sounds as though you have underlined the shell fabric with the warmth fabric. It depends on what you've used for the interlining as to whether it will also do the job of interfacing which is to support the shell fabric.
Either way, as mentioned above, you cut away sections where you have to reduce bulk.
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@Morgan sorry I wasn't very clear! You're right, the main fabric is underlined with the interlining and it's treated as one piece from then on. The interlining is cotton flannel so I don't think it will provide enough support, hence wanting to interface the front sections which include the buttons, buttonholes (hand sewn not bound) and the collar all on one piece. I'm fairly sure that this needs to be on the main piece not the facing though, as if I interfaced the facing it would end up on the top side of the collar instead of the underside.
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Progress and pictures!
I've got the front half put together so far, it's a big relief to actually be sewing after so many days of cutting out.
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I'm sewing the seam allowances down to the interlining as they're reluctant to stay pressed open otherwise, and it's got the added bonus of giving the coat a bit more structure.
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Please forgive me for my hand stitching, it's not beautiful but it does the job!
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That's looking great, @Sonatine ! And no one will see your hand stitching (although it looks fine to me) anyway xx
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Nice to be moving on to the construction stage at last! Your handsewing is perfectly fine for the purpose.
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Looking good! Your hand stitching is plenty neat enough, and no-one will see it.
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More progress!
I put in my first ever sleeve:
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And the main coat outer is now done, ready to start work on the lining next.
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That's looking fabulous - and your sleeve is just beautiful. 0_0
There's something very pleasing and satisfying about a sleeve that is put in perfectly!
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That's coming on really well and well done on the sleeve, it's spot on.
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Looks fabulous @Sonatine . :D
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Looking good, I like your pattern. It should be toasty warm.
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Looking a bit glam! Cuffs done already?
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That's a lovely coat @Sonatine ,well done.
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It's looking fantastic. 0_0
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Woohoo! Looking fabulous, @Sonatine !! :toast:
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For somebody who wasn't sure about tackling a coat - that's looking really good! <3
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Thank you for saying such lovely things about it!
Unfortunately hit a problem today, the lining pieces just don't relate to the pattern pieces at all. It's not just a little bit but multiple inches out or on the diagonal. I have no idea what happened when I was cutting out, I checked so many times that it was straight and flat. Luckily the fabric was from John Lewis so I'll have a chance of finding it again and it was only about £3p/m so not a great expense to replace it. Just frustrating to have to redo it!
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@Francesca no this is just comparing the lining pieces to the pattern pieces, so it's either the cutting out that did it or transporting the cut pieces before they were sewn (which was unavoidable unfortunately and was done very carefully). I'm tempted to make it up using these anyway, and see how it hangs in the coat before I decide whether to attach it or start the lining over.
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This is going to sound daft, but could you possibly have the sections mixed up so you are comparing to the wrong pattern pieces? Especially when there are so many vertical seams, they can look very similar (as I know from joining up the wrong bits) Grainlines will be different in different areas. Also, don't forget you added length to the coat. Did you also add to the lining? Hope you get it sorted. Anyhow, the expensive part is fine, which should cheer you up, and it looks lovely.
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@toileandtrouble yes definitely the right pattern pieces, I've checked and doubled checked. It's interesting that they all have the same distortion. I've attached a photo of the side back but they all have the same issue of matching at the top but going diagonally off at the skirt.
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@Sonatine did you cut the lining with the fabric double. If so I would imagine that some of the discrepancy could be due to slither. Where you have cut 2 from a pattern piece, do both pieces have the same distortion?
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@Francesca in the one pictured it's the same pattern piece for the main fabric, interlining and lining, so it's definitely my error not theirs as it worked the first two times I cut it.
@Ploshkin Yes I did cut it double but both pieces have the same distortion - all six main body lining pieces are distorted in exactly the same way. That's why it's confusing me so much
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Looks like the fabric got pulled off grain on the first one and then was off for all of them, Once unpinned the fabric sprang back to the straight. The tiniest dart at the waist on the long side would pull it back towards the pattern. You'd have almost a seam around the waist, but you could stitch a ribbon around the lot when they were joined up. Grainlines would still be a bit out on the skirt sections but it would be better than having a gap along one front edge and too much on the other.
The bottom hem will also need levelling, but not very much.
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@Sonatine How is the coat going? You've made a great job of it so far, love to see the next stage, when you have time (and if you are a student, it might well be too busy with the occasional lecture/essay/tutorial). I've bought some wool for a winter coat but not had enough time yet to organise the pattern alterations. You are well ahead of me! Hope you are enjoying it.
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@toileandtrouble very slow progress now - unfortunately uni is taking up a large portion of my time and the last seam I did (front facing to side lining) had to be unpicked so my motivation is lacking somewhat. Having said that, the bitter wind we've been having recently is a good motivator! I'm hoping to get the assembly completed this week and be on to the hand finishing next week. I hope your coat goes well :snip:
(I've also somehow managed to get a second coat planned and have bought fabric + B6385 (https://butterick.mccall.com/b6385) for that, but I'm not starting to even think about that properly until this one is finished. It's going to be a Christmas present so I might wait for term to finish before I start it.)
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Another really good coat pattern, I like it.
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I like that pattern, rather like the one I am planning, BUT it has that back yoke, and the choice of a funnel neck and A,B,C,D pattern pieces. Wish I had seen this one before!
Sonatine, I also have a second (secret) pile of fabric. No-one else in my house knows about the navy melton and teal lining. Sssh.
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I'm planning on starting my teal coat this week.
I keep not getting it started, I think I am a little intimidated.
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@SewRuthieSews I hope your coat goes well! Your fabrics are such beautiful colours
The wool went together so easily but the lining is just problem after problem. I need to push through now though because I'm freezing without a coat haha! There's a limit to how many times I can unpick and redo each seam so I'm starting to ignore the issues if they're not massive, and I'll just have to never let anyone see the lining...
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I was just going to say that people will only ever get a quick flash of the lining. :)
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@SewRuthieSews I hope your coat goes well! Your fabrics are such beautiful colours
@Sonatine, thanks I have now found the pattern, and thinking today might be the day to lay the fabric out for cutting.
The wool went together so easily but the lining is just problem after problem. I need to push through now though because I'm freezing without a coat haha! There's a limit to how many times I can unpick and redo each seam so I'm starting to ignore the issues if they're not massive, and I'll just have to never let anyone see the lining...
Lining is mostly there to make the coat easier for you to get on and off, so I wouldn't worry too much about it not being perfect. I have in mind the lining I want to use but I'm not quite sure where I've put it! It is a darker teal satin, heavy and luxurious so I'm looking forward to having it as the lining though it might need lots of pins when sewing it together.
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I finally cut out the main fabric for the coat.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u5E9iF8jHtg/W9wBNATlU9I/AAAAAAAALws/a9iJOlhjYXAIKqRxeVsWwnxGoGEpFN_eQCLcBGAs/s1600/CoatFabrics%2B%25281%2529.JPG)
As expected I did not have enough of the darker (and scratchier fabric) so have cut the facings, pockets and belt from the lighter wool. In the design below the green represents the darker teal fabric and the blue represents the lighter one.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRmr26OyHc0/W9wBNhhK0lI/AAAAAAAALw0/G-Y9PrdtE2I4dIF4UeCoC3fJmrU3z-bigCLcBGAs/s1600/CoatOptionsPrimaopt10.jpg)
Not done lining yet and will need to fuse interfacing and etc but at least it is finally started.
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Have now found the lining fabric, but the pattern does not have pieces for a lining so will need to work them out from the other pieces. I have a book on linings so know what I need to do. I might start on the coat construction first.
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I threaded up the machines and have started sewing the coat. Unlike knits it needs pressing as I go and I am really enjoying the smell wool makes when you steam press it - heavenly!
I've not been too well and get tired easily so need to do it in short chunks of time. Hopefully a bit more tomorrow.
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It suddenly feels like the end is in sight! Only attaching the sleeve lining at the cuffs, hemming the lining, and buttonholes left to go now. The hand finishing is my favourite part, although fours hours have disappeared without me noticing while I was hemming the outer layer. I'm also considering topstitching around the front edge and collar because they just won't behave no matter how much I press them.
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This is where a 'clapper' comes in very useful. However all is not lost, and a much cheaper way of doing this is by using a wooden rolling pin, or a wooden flat meat tenderiser. whacking the troublesome seams as in the collar edges and front facing edges into submission is very satisfying, and used in conjunction with lots of steam the wood absorbs the moisture whilst the weight of holding this in position flattens.
Now if you do not have a wooden rolling pin or meat tenderises, go and look in a charity shop, another alternative for the rolling pin is a piece of banister railing found in a DIY shop.
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A rolling pin! Genius! Thanks @Elnnina . I'll use that.
Looking forward to seeing these two winter coats. @Sonatine you're nearly there. @SewRuthieSews take it easy and get properly better soon.
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I've now cut out the lining pieces from a dark teal satin (like a navy only greener) and have interfaced the facing pieces. My coat has quite a relaxed silhouette and minimal shaping so hoping to make a lovely soft coat which will be warm to wear.
I am also thinking of a detachable hood that would button onto the inside collar. If I have the buttons on the coat collar I can always add them afterwards, and have the buttonholes on the hood. Small flat buttons would not feel noticable.
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Whilst having my shower I had another thought Sonatine regarding your collar/facing edges. I was taught to press them open after sewing as far as was possible, and then from the right side to roll the edge between your finger and thumb to get the seam right on the edge and then to tack as close to the edge as possible using smallish stitches, then press with wet cloth and hot iron, and now that clappers etc. are more readily available this is where they come in to play. Okay once done you might have a line where the tacking stitches were, but another pressing with damp cloth and hot iron, even steam iron should remove any marks. Once you have tamed the edges, you can then topstitch.
Now from memory I believe Just Pottering bought herself a Clapper earlier this year - by the way they are not cheap but such a useful tool to have in the sewing box. A few years ago a lot of people were buying something called a June Tailor Tailor's Board with or without it's covers, and this tool has a multitude of edges for all sorts of pressing even right into the most awkward part of your sewing. June Tailor passed away a few years ago now and eventually her company stopped doing these Tailor's Boards, however they do come up from time to time on e-bay and the like but they are expensive. Now again from memory I believe Morgan here on TSP had one made for her here in the UK.
Glad you like the rolling pin idea ScoutSews, I was given a Pyrex rolling pin as an engagement present a very long time ago which I still use for pastry making, however I found a couple of rounded end wooden rolling pins in my local charity shop which I think is even better than a wooden rolling pin with handles. Needless to say I keep my wooden rolling pins and wooden mallet here in my sewing room!!! In fact I also use the wooden mallet for hitting the buttonhole chisel when cutting open buttonholes. This mallet has never been used in the kitchen.
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Clappers are the posh version. Any piece of clean plain wood that is not oily/resinous would take up the heat just as well. I have used the edge of a wooden chopping board to good effect. Just hold it on to the hot fabric for a while. The fabric has to cool to keep its shape. Doh, late to the party again. Someone else has already covered this. Must read back, must read back.....
You can also press the seam along the wooden rolling pin, it stops the seam allowance from marking the main fabric.
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One of the points at the Harrogate show talk yesterday was the importance of pressing and associated tools. I would never have thought of the rolling pin, but it is identical to one of the tools shown by the presenter. My 35+ year old plain wood cylinder type pin is ideal for the purpose. No varnish, and it has been washed so many times that there won't be any resin left. Thanks for the tip.
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Another item useful in pressing - i.e. a wet cloth is a good old fashioned linen tea towel. Also pieces of cotton sheeting are good, so when your bed sheet has had it i.e. worn through in the middle, the edges of the sheet are still thick and so very useful.
Another pressing cloth that is useful is a piece of silk organza - a pricey piece of equipment, but you can see through this. Wool as in coating is wonderful in that you can do all sorts with this fabric, and it does respond well to a wet cloth and hot iron, and when setting the roll line on a tailored collar the heavier the iron the better, also with careful manipulation you can shrink what would have been darts out of a skirt, so no bulky darts around your middle.
With regards to Gimp - I was taught to use gimp and have one precious reel, have never found this since. However I believe that Empress Mills may do this, I haven't been on their website for a few years, but it is worth checking to see if they still do this.
I personally love corded buttonholes even on summerweight fabrics and I use DMC Perle thread mostly in white and I then close up the machine stitch and the white does not show through. The Perle thread comes in various sizes and either in skeins or a ball, and I tend to use No 5 and this gives a lovely buttonhole. Of course the skeins of DMC comes in lots of lovely colours, so you can easily get a matching Perle thread if you wanted to.
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@Elnnina thank you so much!! So much useful information - I've bought a cheap wooden rolling pin with rounded ends instead of handles so I'll have a go at pressing with it this evening. I'm not sure if the fabric will respond as well as pure wool but I burn and bleach tested it and it seems to ba a high % so hopefully it should still work.
The lining hem is not behaving either but I'm just going to machine it and ignore slight wonkiness as it's hidden on the inside, it frays far too much to be able to handle it (or manhandle it due to the weight and bulk of the fabric!) enough to do it by hand.
@SewRuthieSews it sounds like you're making good progress, and a detachable hood is a great idea. Looking forward to seeing photos of it with all of those beautiful coloured fabrics together.
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I love my clapper. It was worth every penny. What I use it for most though, is pressing cushion seams. I use the narrow pointed side inside the cushion cover - with the point pushed into the corner I can press the iron onto it like a tiny ironing board. This would work with any inaccessible areas like collars.
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Yes I agree - a big clap for the clapper. I didn't think it would make a difference before I got one but it really does. Great at flattening seams.
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I'm slowly constructing my coat.
The pattern didn't inlcude a lining but I've cut lining pieces.
When doing construction would you sew the lining to the facing and then to the coat or the facing to the coat and then the lining to the facing?
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I sewed the facing to the coat, and the lining at the end - I'm not claiming that's the right way, but it worked for me!
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That's how I would do it, too, @Acorn @SewRuthieSews - it's easier to manipulate the facings and the linings that way. And the lining is less likely to end up a creased mess ;)
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OK thanks @Acorn @Nevis5
That is what I will do.
I am taking things slowly. It is not a complicated style but the pressing slows things up and it is larger than the ironing board.
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@SewRuthieSews I've had the same issue with pressing, there's just so much fabric and weight to manipulate.
I've started pressing with the clapper (well, rolling pin) today and it's completely magical! Thank you to everyone who suggested using one, I don't think the front will even need topstitching now, it's lying perfectly flat with a crisp edge :D :D
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One other suggestion to those making coats and having a bit of a problem with pressing. You can use strips of brown paper to slide under the opened seam on the wrong side and this helps stop indentation marks showing on the right side.
Then once the coat is finished, why not take the coat to the dry cleaners and ask if they will just press this on their machine - it sort of blows up in the middle filling out the garment and this can make all the difference especially if they are full skirted coats.
I must say I impressed with those of you making coats lately, and I am so glad that the use of a clapper or rolling pin has worked wonders for you.
Last week I mentioned the June Tailor Tailor's board, well went I went looking on the internet, I found a place down in Sussex who is making these at what I thought a very reasonable price. I certainly paid a tidy sum for my original June Tailor board and its covers. From time to time I see that a booklet showing you how to press using this board is available on e-bay - so do keep your eyes open for this it is called - The June Tailor Method of Custom Detail Pressing - a 22 page booklet. There is also a small paper leaflet by June Tailor called - How to use your Tailor Board.
Looking forward to seeing the finished coats.
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I've got a piece of unfinished wood that I think was cut off an overly long curtain rail, or broom handle or similar (it has a circular cross section). I have been using that to bash my seams though I feel a bit silly doing so.
I've also been leaving the piece I've just pressed on the ironing board until it cools.
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It's finished!
It feels like it's taken ages, but it's just under two months since I first decided to make it and there have been quite a few weeks where I haven't had any time to sew.
The buttonholes were the final time consuming issue, I initially wanted to do hand sewn buttonholes but even after lots of practise my stitches just weren't even enough or consistent enough, especially when dealing with 3 layers of heavy fabric plus interfacing. I ended up borrowing a friend's machine to do 1-step button holes, which in itself took a long time because I was fretting about getting the placement right. After cutting them open the contrast side of my fabric (bright blue) showed through and they didn't feel strong enough so I hand sewed over the top of the machine stitching with buttonhole stitch using Gutermann Topstitch thread. Having the existing stitching as a guide made the whole thing much neater and I actually really like the finish this way.
I'm also really pleased with the main hem, it's bound with narrow bias binding and then turned up and handstitched to the interlining so it's completely invisible from the outside and not bulky.
The less said about the lining hem the better!
The coat is very warm (it feels like wearing a blanket) and quite heavy. I tried weighing it and I think it's about 5lb. It was also a fairly expensive project - even with the bargain coating fabric the total was just under £100.
Photos:
Front (worn over the amount of petticoat / skirt I'd wear on a normal day, the weight of it does crush the volume)
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Back
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Hybrid buttonhole compared to one without the hand sewing
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Hem / inside finish
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And thank you again for all of the help along the way, I never would have managed it otherwise!
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That looks lovely. It may feel heavy but if we get a bad winter you will be so glad of it. Haven't even started mine yet.
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What a lovely job you've done there, @Sonatine The button holes look fab. :toast:
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That is one seriously stylish coat.
I dread to think what you would have had to pay for a coat like that.
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@Sonatine your finished coat is lovely! Well done, you must be so pleased with it.
After a big gap I am working on mine again. It is a great deal simpler and less tailored than yours.
I am hoping to finish it before Christmas, we shall see.
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That is really lovely, and it fits you beautifully.
Mine is waiting until after Christmas now!
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Your coat is a great success! It looks warm and cosy as well as stylish.
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Sonatine your coat is absolutely beautiful and if you have never tackled a tailored garment before then you have done extremely well. The coat suits you and what a lovely style. So glad that the 'rolling pin' came in useful - that is now a very valuable piece of equipment added to your sewing room and will suffice until you can afford something different.
I gather it has been predicted that we are going to have a bad winter a bit like that of 1948 which was pretty awful and cold and snowy, so you will be the one laughing as you go out and about wearing your lovely snug coat - no doubt people will be asking where you got this from - so be prepared with an answer otherwise you may get requests coming in for one just like - but they will not be prepared to pay you for your time and expertise.
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It's really lovely and you should feel very proud of yourself!
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That is superb. You should be very proud of your workmanship, and no longer count yourself as a beginner. Beware people asking you to make them things, just tell them they can't afford your expert hourly rate.
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Well done @Sonatine that is fabulous and a perfect fit. Enjoy wearing it.
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Yes, it's superb! You should be very proud of your skills. 0_0
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Really impressive and very well done!
Annieeg
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An absolutely gorgeous coat, it fits you beautifully and is very well made. Congratulations :)
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Wow, @Sonatine , that is stunning! (and I wish I had your figure, too). You look amazing. Enjoy wearing your beautiful coat with pride xx
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Bravo!! Sonatine Bravo!!! and for sooo much more than that beautiful coat (you know what I mean!)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S16PP83XL_Bt8d-8xmiYWdFyChkDTYhfz27vE8s3_Xjos4MlPCiFOGcUiPg5KYrLOmcv6LsQ30sTYylSikLht-AzQFdKR4fAx3uBcGkDDY8Q2CerVJfkNl7vNUNIkVntjYH-udV4ffPdufsFCRX29PxsW2YBav96InyCeWxsq25NTEJ9m4fABxLQwS9NJOXkHa87v3ENGK1bnND9zcOywkSVDw_jqWC_56bxD8gPax4ESR3n6_BFl01vvFTtqW8ZYy4zM3LXsSVWIEkVKzCLwu0NUyL8WDbc9OnWgJALcppE1nkqWCdfNNuH7_KcRpf6q3OKtOjaJ_SPMtQR9e96bMDWJxqmRkx43KVWc6ZU4Rx6kUYP9Pp98SSF0O9pCEQEAdcpPMky8UAJfjz07Ctc06HR5MWlH6Ix3HJcfuHJ80XI3R7-biPSxjUNYnU8eA3rU6aivzhYVi0RpeyR1WK-HOBuiH1beC9WTrlliM9cwIuXPkwsdrhmOOaICSuf0kpqvXprKs4BZSQDDKkCcoWbUvwbKxVIBKwaiMEQuthY_bQfZ3taT6a7q8I3VrOTdVIPU5PfOZS1OtDjsopARjMSAK-7F5S0geK4sQeZiAR19UjmeXtyJwRIInnCSQWDEihXBFV7s5YhdDKsFTYZNCMw83Bo5nxZFkpzYwZFZL6SqZp3yBWd4lPeQYoUXn5rAHX3Duh5q6Pfq9R1=w572-h322-no)
Its very like my most favourite coat of all time ever (couple reasons; One of the very rare presents that my Daddy bought for me (1990) it actually fits and looks FABulous!!) whose lining has sadly fallen apart and which will no doubt follow the same way in the next couple of years! I would love to replicate it in all its glory, but ......
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That's a gorgeous coat @Sonatine . Love the shape of it with it fitting at the waist and flaring out. <3
@Iminei Regarding your most favourite coat of all time ever...Is it just the lining which has disintegrated? If so, it could be relined.
Sandra.
xxx
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I have been working on this simple coat very slowly over the last few weeks.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_DI2-TCQTqY/XB1QFOG1h7I/AAAAAAAALzg/HIZS-SgNqz4YoqGv8BuEmq6MxRmMtw4sACLcBGAs/s320/TealWoolCoat%2B%25281%2529.JPG)
It still needs hemming and a good press but is otherwise complete. I've added a lining in a dark teal satin, and pockets, belt and facing/collar in the slightly lighter teal wool. I think it works quite well.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n1QG-NvbYlo/W9wCWuUsblI/AAAAAAAALxM/c0gCyYXNIOsUMMJjXnv43BUjH7a0zJWvQCLcBGAs/s1600/Prima%2B2015%2BFeb%2BCoat%2B2.jpg)
The pattern was from Prima magazine February 2015.
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This is looking good SewRuthieSews, and so nearly finished, it won't take you too long to finish the hemming, and do not forget that if giving this coat a final pressing is bothering you, take it to the Dry Cleaners and let them work their magic on this for you.
You will be the envy of others wearing your lovely warm coat when the bad weather hits us.
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Yes @Sandra, just the lining, (I think!)
Its sort of like this
(https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/zEoAAOSwTVlb2Y-B/s-l225.jpg)
except mine is in Burgundy and I added a quarter mock belt bit (??) at the back and cuffs in black velvet when I got it.
It also needs a good clean. :[
A couple of years back we went out for a lunchtime drink, it was a gorgeous winters day, blue sky, bright sun shafting through the window and when I put the coat on as we left all these dust motes emanated from it, whirling around me, dancing in the suns rays ... embarrassed moi???
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Yes @Sandra, just the lining
It's quite satisfying to replace lining. Use the old lining as your pattern for the new one. Sounds like it would be worth doing. It'll give your coat a new lease of life. :)
Sandra.
xxx
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I'll wait til the New Year to pop it in the post to you then Sandra, let the backlog of chrimbo cards etc get sorted first..
And Yes, I do have your address .... :devil:
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Thank you all for saying such lovely kind things! Sorry it has taken me a while to reply, I couldn't work out the words to say what I'm thinking, so just thank you will have to do. But I really am so grateful for all of the help and encouraging feedback :sew:
@SewRuthieSews it's such a gorgeous colour combination! And beautifully made
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Sonatine, this is what TSP is all about, how we help one another and that is what makes us so special. Everyone has different talents and ways of doing things, and you have been encouraged to have a go at making a coat which you have mastered extremely well - setting in your very first sleeve says it all. Your coat is a lovely shape, and from the photos fits very well - so well done. Now if you can master making a coat for yourself and in a reasonably short time, you surely will be able to try making lots of other garments.
As sewing has progressed over the years, different ways of making our garments has occurred, for example overlockers were once only in industry, now they are commonplace in our homes and bring an amazing amount of variety to our sewing, also sewing machines have evolved over the years and are now quite sophisticated. As you have already found out the benefits of using a 'clapper' or in your case a rolling pin when pressing wool and what a difference this has made to tame the edges of your collar, and this gadget can also be used on much thinner and even man made garments to a great effect. As you begin your sewing journey you will find many different ways of doing things - some you will like and others not so much, your sewing equipment will grow and grow - so just enjoy all that you sew.
Look forward to seeing what you are going to make next.