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The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Helen M on November 25, 2020, 15:23:13 PM

Title: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on November 25, 2020, 15:23:13 PM
I'm planning on making a Style Arc Canterbury skirt with some animal print viscose twill but am unsure so wonder what anyone's thoughts would be.

Main worry is altering the length as I am only 5'1". I thought of removing seam allowance on skirt top and the main piece but I think I need 1-2" off the length so do I just take it from the hem or slit the skirt piece somewhere in the middle?

Also the side zip goes up through waistband which I've not done before, but as I'm low waisted would really prefer to put waistband on last so should I put zip in to finish at waist and put a hook and eye on the overlapping waist band?

My other thought was to make the Fibremood Hettie with only one tier? I've made a toile of both skirt tops for size as I've not made a skirt in at least a decade!

My last thought was is the 'droopy hem' style a bit out of date now? I was thinking of eliminating the 'droop' from the back.


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Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: sewingj on November 25, 2020, 16:04:20 PM
At risk of sounding negative I think both of those would look best on someone very tall but I do prefer the first one
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Goth Gardiner on November 25, 2020, 16:10:33 PM
At risk of sounding negative I think both of those would look best on someone very tall but I do prefer the first one

This. I am a couple of inches taller than you and I find any skirt with horizontal seams seams very unflattering.

I also prefer the first one.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Gernella on November 25, 2020, 16:26:46 PM
At risk of sounding negative I think both of those would look best on someone very tall but I do prefer the first one

Same here, wouldn't suit me too old but the other one would look even worse. I think there is an age range for this kind of skirt, plus the ability to carry it.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on November 25, 2020, 17:43:41 PM
Thanks for the input.

I have a floaty summery one with a droopy front and like wearing it and have one like the fibremood too. I'm a size 6-8 and wear both with close fitting tops like the one in the Style Arc drawing. I suppose it's the complications of the pattern that is putting me off the droopy one.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Efemera on November 25, 2020, 18:21:41 PM
I like the first one.... easy to chop off the bottom if you don’t want the uneven hemline.... I like the wonky hem.... it’s proportion that matters, make it the longer length, try it on and see if you like it.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Acorn on November 25, 2020, 18:24:24 PM
I agree with @Efemera - I prefer the first one.  I'm on the fence over droopy hems - I like them, but sometimes they annoy me.  I think being petite your height won't be an issue.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: BrendaP on November 25, 2020, 18:45:28 PM
I'm with everyone else in preferring the first one.

Alter at the bottom - just cut of the required amount from the bottom edge keeping the new cutting line parallel to the existing one.  That will preserve the correct asymetric line of the pattern although it will reduce the overall flare slightly - which shouldn't be an issue as you are short.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Vezelay on November 25, 2020, 22:41:30 PM
I actually like the Fibremood one best. The skirt on the model looks like cotton and your viscose fabric would have more drape and flow to it than hers. It depends on your shape but personally I would find that more flattering, including the tiers. I've fond memories of owning similar skirts in times past. Plus I'm not a big fan of asymmetric hems and Style Arc instructions are minimal at the best of times without doing tricky alterations.

But hey, minority view as everyone else prefers the first and I haven't worn a skirt in years. ;)
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on November 26, 2020, 10:56:26 AM
That was my thinking too about the gathered tiered skirt @Vezelay. The original pattern has 2 tiers and I've seen pictures which show them draping well. The pic I posted was the only one I could copy and I don't think the fabric choice is the best. Mine has a nice drape.

I think I'll make up the Fibremood in some viscose that I no longer like and see how it looks.

I've only recently come back to wearing skirts especially in hot weather as they are far more comfortable than shorts (longish ones) or pants and for some reason I don't feel like I'm dressed to go to the beach which I do with shorts. This one will be worn with black tights and maybe long suede boots. The top is a fine ribbed polo neck that ended between hip and waist but I'll wear it our rather than tucked in.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on November 26, 2020, 10:58:08 AM
Alter at the bottom - just cut of the required amount from the bottom edge keeping the new cutting line parallel to the existing one.  That will preserve the correct asymetric line of the pattern although it will reduce the overall flare slightly - which shouldn't be an issue as you are short.

@BrendaP I was thinking it wouldn't be a bad idea to reduce some of the flare.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Vezelay on November 26, 2020, 15:39:34 PM
Helen, just to be clear - I didn't realise the pattern has two tier options (if you see what I mean). For me I'd probably choose the version shown in your picture but that's just a personal style preference. Make whatever you're happiest with. And the viscose you no longer like might just turn into your favourite skirt ever. :)
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on November 26, 2020, 16:25:50 PM
It is the single tier that I'd planned to make @Vezelay. I think the double tier lends itself more for summer although I've seen a beauty on Instagram made in a navy and camel zebra print.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Catllar on November 26, 2020, 20:29:45 PM
I've made a skirt just like the Style Arc one. I'm 5'6" and I evened off the bottom hem as it was too long with the asymmetric hem. The bias cut diagonal yoke looks great, on the other hand. Subtle.

Be fine to put the zipper up to top of skirt and then finish the band with hook and eye or a button.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: William on November 27, 2020, 13:52:31 PM
Hello-

I really do not think that this is a question of size. The first is more of a classic skirt, not something that will be cancelled by fashion. Also, my personal preferance is against strong horizontals, for what my 2 cents are worth...

William David
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: jen on December 02, 2020, 14:16:01 PM
I’ve made a fair few skirts with a diagonal yoke and flared effect and they have been flattering on both me and the other recipient of my efforts, each of us 5 foot 4 and in the 36/38 inch hip range if that helps. Diagonals are supposed to encourage a longer, leaner look, whereas yokes straight across define width, so where the yoke hits is important.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on December 05, 2020, 20:46:21 PM
Thanks for all your advice! After procrastinating for far too long I cut out the Style Arc one this afternoon.  Time will tell if I've made the right decision! I may even up the hem @Catllar, so thank you for that suggestion. After I cut the skirt I was able to see where to level up so drew a pencil line on the pattern piece just in case. I think I'll level the back anyway even if I leave the front.

Will post if it turns out okay!
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on December 24, 2020, 12:18:54 PM
Well I've just finished it and I'm happy with result! Will post a photo later.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Vezelay on December 24, 2020, 14:27:36 PM
Excellent! Your Christmas skirt :).
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on December 24, 2020, 15:26:49 PM
Sorry just a hanging photo at the moment.

I levelled up the back as planned and took 3.5" off the centre 'point' of the front droop tapering it to the right seam (that was a straight line anyway) which made the point slightly more to the centre then gently tapered the other side to where the droop started, somewhere close to the centre front.

The length was left as per pattern apart from the droopy point which was almost floor length on me before trimming!

Had numerous issues with zip, mainly user error as I haven't used on in decades, and having initially tried to use the wrong invisible zipper foot that was left from my original machine, almost 30 years ago. :o 

The Kenneth D King YouTube tutorial was great, I had the foot he used already and the haemostats he talks about. Also substituted a longer (1") zip than pattern suggested which is part of the knack and have made a mental note to always do that in future!
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: SkoutSews on December 24, 2020, 19:13:25 PM
Very nice! Are you going to wear it tomorrow?
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Helen M on December 24, 2020, 19:30:33 PM
I haven't quite decided yet! I have a lovely red cowl neck sweater dress that I like to wear at Christmas as it is so comfy, but I'll wait and see, it's really chilly round here tonight so we'll see.
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Acorn on December 24, 2020, 19:53:13 PM
Lovely!   0_0
Title: Re: Skirt Dilemma - Which One Do I Make?
Post by: Vezelay on December 24, 2020, 22:28:18 PM
That'll be lovely with a plain top and a pair of boots Helen. Drapes really well. I'd be pleased.

Is everyone dressing up tomorrow? It's a bit too chilly here for anything but my usual brushed fleece toaster sweater over long sleeved tee plus double leggings.