The Sewing Place
The Emporia => In the wardrobe => Topic started by: Mocarroll on February 17, 2018, 21:11:34 PM
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I spend most of my life in trousers but have never had much success making them. Tried drafting my own and “perfect fit” patterns but not happy with the results. So bought the Palmer Pletsch class on sale and the penny dropped. I managed to fit myself and knocked these up from a piece of wool suiting I had in my stash and am quite pleased with the result. I do like the skinny look but not on me, my belly’s too big and I’m too short. Not too sure about the creases but they didn’t seem to hang properly without. Next try, something with a bit of stretch and move the zip to the side with a shaped facing instead of waistband.
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Oh I like those Mocarroll.
Trousers are on my 'one day' list.
Wanders off to investigate Palmer Pletsch classes (I already have a couple of their books)
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Well done, they look a good fit :)
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You are nearly there.
0_0 :trousers: 0_0
The top of the back creases don't look quite righ to me, try pressing them to meet the darts.
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Where's this big belly you mention? I don't see it!!
Would love to have your silhouette.
I have not had much success with trousers yet.
Well done!
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You are on the way @Mocarroll. I have no chance of ever making a pairs of trousers (not that I wear them) as I have too many inconvenient bulges. 0_0
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Congratulations! I have decided trousers are the work of the devil and have given up! (Sadly I think a lot of the problem is not the trousers - it is the shape of the body I am trying to put in them)
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The front looks great... but there’s something not right about the back, looks like there’s too much fabric above the knees on the inner seam..someone might know the fix for this, I’ve long given up on trouser making, it made my head hurt!
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but there’s something not right about the back,
Yes, you've got the front spot on, they look great Your pictures are really good for spotting issues. It looks as if there needs to be a tuck taken out of the back of the thigh on both legs or might it be a flat(ish) bum adjustment that is needed?
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Yes, a flat bum/flat seat - thin thighs adjustment.
https://closetcasepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting/ (https://closetcasepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting/)
quick image (https://i.pinimg.com/originals/eb/81/f6/eb81f64fae145bf95a305b881c17f40e.jpg)
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I struggled for a couple of days to make a trouser block - using Ann Ladbury's book. I nearly gave up several times but I'm very glad I did it. I'm an odd shape - I had to leave out the front darts altogether and the measurement from side seam to back crotch is far less than most patterns. I'm quite happy making trousers now and have had several successes. I would recommend it to anyone.
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This might be helpful too. I've yet to try it but some people have found success with it. My issue is thin thighs more than flat seat. But either issue creates excess fabric in that area.
Ann Rowley flat seat adjustment (https://www.flickr.com/photos/7370831@N07/sets/72157600004811376/)
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Definitely flat bum syndrome, I've got the same problem except mines really flat
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I have no hope of getting trousers, other than very wide legs, to fit me.
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I have no hope of getting trousers, other than very wide legs, to fit me.
I tend to agree with this. I don't wear skinny jeans, I feel like it makes me look like an ice cream cone. You're curvier than I am but I feel each shape has its idea trouser shape.
I disagree with the "no hope" part. Maybe you need professional help ie a tailor or seamstress? or sewing buddy?
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I agree the front is perfect, but those are substantial folds at the back, the side view also seems to have a big fold. I also like the shape and length of the leg on you.
I don't have a flat butt, though my mother does. I am going to try Style Arc's Flat Bottom Flo for her in a ponte.
Thank you for the link to the Ann Crowley tutorial. Will try it for my mother.
Perso, I just bought a $20 Craftsy class by Suzy Furrer. IIRC, she had two trouser classes last year. Now, it's 1 class, which incorporates both drafting and design. I will let you know how it takes care of my curves (low wide butt, hourglass, 1m53 height).
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As I said, I am not really a trousers person but I wanted to demonstrate to others that my shape is impossible to fit satisfactorily. 0_0
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Oh, I love all of you who suggested I try a thin thigh adjustment! I think next pair will be lifted up at the back centre seam (I was too lazy to do it as I had already put the invisible zip in) and the crotch seam lowered. Thanks to you all for your helpful comments. Watch this space for the next try....
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As I said, I am not really a trousers person but I wanted to demonstrate to others that my shape is impossible to fit satisfactorily. 0_0
I don't agree UR. I am definitely worse than you! And I've come across all sorts of shapes and sizes. It's just trial and error and getting a pattern that may be a good starting point. I draft my own but even those need fitting!
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You are too hard on yourself UR. You are lovely and curvy. It's only fashion that says we shouldn't have curves. Go back a few years and the fashion would have favoured you. It always seems cruel but we have to rise above it! I think you should wear trousers if they fit your lifestyle. It's a question of finding the right trouser for you.
I mostly wear trousers now because I have a problem with swollen ankles, but I have learned not to wear long or tunic tops with them because they make my legs look too short. I make my tops to come just over my hips but stop short before the tops of my thighs. Try experimenting with what might be right for you - and start celebrating womanliness!!
Sorry for side-tracking your thread Mocarroll.
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My other half is pretty curvy and loves the Indian style Salwar; lots of pleats and space, drawstrings and the like and they can be very vibrant - especially with Purple DMs :)
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I do like the skinny look but not on me, my belly’s too big and I’m too short.
Err, what belly? They look fab!
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They look fantastic! I can recommend Ann Rowley's adjustment. Just one thought on this pair, does the crotch length fit comfortably? Sometimes a slight 'scoop' can also help to remove excess fabric at the very top of the back of the thigh. You could try it on this pair before you start another.