The Sewing Place

The Emporia => What lies beneath... => Topic started by: SewRuthieSews on August 02, 2022, 18:35:05 PM

Title: Bra Shapes
Post by: SewRuthieSews on August 02, 2022, 18:35:05 PM
What shape of bra would lift and bring together?
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Lowena on August 02, 2022, 19:29:19 PM
The sort of bra I hate!  :laughing:
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Ouryve on August 02, 2022, 19:48:48 PM
Balconette or a plunge. I can't wear a plunge bra mind, as I just fall straight out of one. Generally look for a 3 or even 4 piece cup, possibly with side support.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: BrendaP on August 02, 2022, 23:38:44 PM
For lift you need a support bra so that generally rules out plunge styles.

For 'bringing together' you need a power bar to push the breast tissue from the side towards the centre. 

See  Anatomy of a Bra (https://www.seamwork.com/articles/anatomy-of-a-bra)

Whilst wires generally help with support they tend to separate rather than push together, so consider non-wired styles.

Whatever style you choose, if a bra fits you properly you do not have a bulge of flesh above the top of the cup.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Kwaaked on August 02, 2022, 23:51:18 PM
Underwire with angled cups is the best bet.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Iminei on August 03, 2022, 09:05:54 AM
I wish I could find any bra that fit me properly ... Im now down to 1 everyday bra and 1 'special' bra that I wear at the fashion museum whilst my ED bra is in the wash ...

The 'special' bra does fit as I was fitted in the shop, but Why Oh Why was I given a 30 ** size ... I had to buy a bra extender for it to fit my 34" (??) round measurement !!!!

** = none of your business ... oh the shame!!! :scream:
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: b15erk on August 03, 2022, 09:09:15 AM
I wear what used to be called a 'minimiser' bra, as I'm quite well endowed  :rolleyes: .  This is underwired two main bra pieces, but an extra piece at the side which helps everything stay well forward.

I'll try to post a pic later...

Jessie
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: BrendaP on August 03, 2022, 09:36:48 AM

The 'special' bra does fit as I was fitted in the shop, but Why Oh Why was I given a 30 ** size ... I had to buy a bra extender for it to fit my 34" (??) round measurement !!!!

@Iminie
Are you a very small cup size?

To keep to the same cup size you go down a letter each time you go up a number, and vice-versa.
For instance a 34A has the same cup size (and wire size) as a 32B or a 30C
likewise 34AA  has the same cup as a 32A or a 30B
and  34AAA has the same cup as a 32AA or 30A

It *might have been that you need 34AAA, but they didn't have that size in stock.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: SewRuthieSews on August 03, 2022, 09:41:54 AM
 =8
Thanks for the responses, @BrendaP that was a very helpful link.

My bust changed size and shape a lot through peri menopause/menopause which also coincided with some weight gain.
I was a 38B and am now a 40D.
I don't wear proper bras at all, just bralettes, non wired comfort bras from Sainsburys and those pull on ones.
But its not doing me any favours in the silhouette department so I wondered what might.
I can't wear anything with a nasty polyester covered seam across the nipple, it just itches all day, so I turn those bras inside out! (a bra is badged as 100% cotton and then its got the poly inside the cup!).
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Acorn on August 03, 2022, 10:53:44 AM
...(a bra is badged as 100% cotton and then its got the poly inside the cup!).

Oh this drives me mad!!  Anyone who wants a cotton bra wants it because they like/need cotton next to their skin.  Clothes slide better over polyester, but skin generally prefers cotton.  Why don't they make bras that are cotton on the inside and poly on the outside??   :rant:
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: SewRuthieSews on August 03, 2022, 11:43:25 AM
I dare say I could add a cotton lining to a poly bra but then its an extra layer.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Ouryve on August 03, 2022, 11:45:11 AM
It's worth looking at boob or bust to work out what size you need to work around, @SewRuthieSews.


I have very sensitive skin and wore only cotton bras for years but I now wear a lot of non-padded Curvy Kate bras and they're made from really soft, non-irritating lace and mesh and don't get as sweaty as some of my softer cup bras. There's always a good selection of heavily discounted ones at brastop, too.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Lachica on August 03, 2022, 15:51:38 PM
I second looking at Boob Or Bust f/b group & following their instructions to measure. Breast tissue migrates to underarms (& even the back apparently) but a proper fitting bra will round it up & bring it back into place! Since getting BOB sized bras I don't have the wire-in-armpit chafing or the 'back fat bulge', straps are the correct distance apart so they don't fall down. I went from 36c using the old 'plus 4 inch' system to 32FF or G. As @BrendaP says, the cup size goes up as the band goes down. I'm not  very big.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on August 03, 2022, 16:06:43 PM
I hate bra shopping!  I like underwired ones that herd them together, yet so many bras seem to point them out to the sides!  I always look particularly at how far apart the wires are at the front, but even then it doesn't guarantee which way the girls will end up pointing  :S
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Ouryve on August 03, 2022, 16:36:58 PM
A 3 or 4 piece cup (look at that anatomy of a bra link up thread) can help prevent the east-west look. I have a triumph bra that is so comfortable (or was, it's too big for me, now) but is terrible for that and I have to be careful not to be wearing it when planning a new top or else darts end up in completely the wrong place. I can't wear it with a button up shirt, either, because they look like they're trying to punch their way out of it.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Lowena on August 03, 2022, 16:38:44 PM
I hate pushed together boobs. I look like  a pouter pigeon  :D
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: mudcat on August 03, 2022, 18:40:24 PM
I can't stand seams in bras and used to hate the underwires.  For years I wore sports bras but with age and a bit of weight gain those no longer worked for me.  Then I discovered the Body by Wacoal Underwire Bra which is an underwire with smooth cup (no seams).  First time I ever found a comfortable underwire and now that's the only brand I will buy.  Sometimes I try some of their other seamless styles in various colors when they're on sale but none of them have been as good as this one.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Ouryve on August 03, 2022, 19:45:19 PM
Those moulded Cup bras don't always work all that well for those of us with spaniel's ears, @mudcat. I can try one on that is clearly too small and still have an empty bit at the top.


Though there is so much variation in shape and layout, for want of a better word, that two 32GG (my ballpark size) women can try on the exact same bra and it might fit one perfectly and only fit the other where it touches.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: mudcat on August 03, 2022, 20:51:41 PM
@Ouryve spaniels ears? (https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=spaniel%27s+ears&iax=images&ia=images)  :laughing: :laughing:

You're right ... they probably don't work for everyone.  I'm only a D cup so I've no idea about GG cups.  I just know I like a smooth look and no lace or seams that show through the knits I mostly wear. 
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: LeilaMay on August 04, 2022, 10:13:42 AM
Visited the size calculator page at BoB - good grief, is that really a size? And a tiny number? I'm not et convinced, but we'll see. The funniest part was having to ask my OH for assistance as to what shape bra would suit me, based on the bending over thing LOL

But seriously, I found that shape thing helpful and logical straight away.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on August 04, 2022, 11:52:43 AM
I did one of those boob measuring things where amongst other things, you bend over and measure, made me a larger size cup than I normally have, so I dutifully tried one - no way could I fill it! 

Edit:  I've not tried this one yet, but will do.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on August 05, 2022, 13:49:17 PM
Well, that is hilarious!
I must have very odd boobs!

I wear a 42B, I have a few that size, they fit.

The boob or bust calculator says I need a 42G  :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: LeilaMay on August 05, 2022, 13:54:50 PM
Yes, I can't think I'm the size they suggest either, but I can see that a re-fit could be helpful. I'm trying to work out what sizes (variety) to order online to find the 'right' size.
My band size is suggested as 4 inches smaller! and cup moves up many sizes LOL
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Acorn on August 05, 2022, 14:28:04 PM
Well, that is hilarious!
I must have very odd boobs!

I wear a 42B, I have a few that size, they fit.

The boob or bust calculator says I need a 42G  :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Somewhere to keep your sandwiches..?

I generally wear two different styles from M&S (not at the same time!)  One fits at 38D, the other at 40B.  I think the only thing to do is go and try a selection of neighbouring sizes on - although one of my styles isn't stocked at any M&S I go near regularly.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Lachica on August 05, 2022, 16:49:10 PM
@LeilaMay that doesn't surprise me. The band will feel very tight to start with and your shoulders will feel lighter as the weight is taken by the band. I went to 34F when I first measured as the 32 band was too tight but after a few months the spread out breast tissue migrates back to the front and the tighter band then feels ok. The cup size then increases again! The BOB cup sizes sound alarmingly big at first but there's a good explanation of how cup volume relates to breast volume on the BOB site. Good luck, you will find your ideal style but it may take a lot of trial and error. If you have a Bravissimo nearby they're very helpful & use BOB sizing.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: BrendaP on August 06, 2022, 23:55:52 PM
I'm not convinced about the BoB way of measuring.  They say that the first measurement should be as tight as you can get it without the tape measure snapping, and then the second measurement to the standard of two fingers under, but then the size the calculator gives you has the band length of the first very tight measurement

Whilst the band should be firm it shouldn't be so tight that you can't breath!

This thread has prompted me to want to make bras again.  I know I'll have to start with a toile again; a bit of weight gain plus the added challenge of adding a pocket for the prosthesis, but today this (https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0989246116/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) popped through the letterbox as did two parcels containing bra kits; one from Sewing Chest (https://www.sewingchest.co.uk/bra-lingerie-making) and one from Fit2Sew (https://fit2sew.co.uk/uk-one-stop-shop/).
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Kwaaked on August 07, 2022, 04:48:23 AM
Depending on the brand and style I can be DD, E, F or G.  I came up a G on this one.

I am a certified bra fitter specialist in real life, and while the methods are all the same, you also have brands and styles you think of when sizing.  On one of the days I do this as a freelancer (meaning I am a fitter in a store and paid, but not an employee) I know the brands that they sell.  I actually wear one of the brands they sell.  In that brand and style I am a 38DD.  I switch to a different brand and style (plunging in this case and a higher end designer) I am a 36 G.  Another brand and style (t-shirt and at this point all my bras cost between 50-100 USD) I am a 40 E.  I also usually have to do some alteration to the bra itself to fit perfectly (usually I add a bra sling or at a minimum take in the center gore). 

There is no one size fits all to bra fitting.  Angled cups can push them forward, and cost of what you are willing to spend can play into what you need/get. 
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Ouryve on August 07, 2022, 08:31:58 AM
The addition to your under bust measurement to get your band size comes from the days before lycra, when bras were much more rigid. I have bras with a 30, 32 and 34 band and they all stretch to about the same length.
Title: Re: Bra Shapes
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on August 07, 2022, 08:51:05 AM
I'm not convinced about the BoB way of measuring.  They say that the first measurement should be as tight as you can get it without the tape measure snapping, and then the second measurement to the standard of two fingers under, but then the size the calculator gives you has the band length of the first very tight measurement...


That's odd, cos for me it gave the second "snug" measurement as my band size.