The Sewing Place

The Emporia => A bit of a 'do' => Bridal => Topic started by: charlotte on April 05, 2020, 14:39:26 PM

Title: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 05, 2020, 14:39:26 PM
Exciting news: I am engaged! And in these current challenging times my wedding dress is the one thing I can start planning!

There is no date or anything yet for obvious reasons!!

I’m thinking something similar to this Burda Style pattern, but perhaps with pleats instead of gathers and of lace motifs and tulle over the bodice, extending to an illusion neckline.

(https://i.imgur.com/39Uh35Pl.jpg)

At the moment I think I would like a pale pink or oyster silk taffeta with a dramatic beaded lace for the overlay.

My current plan of action is:
1. Draft a pattern and make a full toile (including corselette)
2. Make a test dress - a knee length version in Liberty lawn with a silk organza yoke (to be worn to my brother’s wedding)
3. Make the dress

Luckily I have the necessary supplies to crack on with step one as soon as I’ve finished off my coat.

Wish me luck! I’ll keep you updated!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Acorn on April 05, 2020, 14:49:10 PM
Oooohhhh!  Congratulations!!   :hug:   0_0  Lovely news to share in.   :D

We are going to enjoy following your exploits very much indeed.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: sewingj on April 05, 2020, 14:52:36 PM
Come on @charlotte  we need more than that!  When did this happen, and where and how?

Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Sandra on April 05, 2020, 15:06:22 PM
 :toast: Congratulations.

I look forward to seeing your dress as it all comes together.

Sandra.
xxx
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Greybird on April 05, 2020, 15:08:09 PM
Congratulations and all the luck you deserve! The pattern looks lovely and I look forward to seeing the progress.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Lachica on April 05, 2020, 15:16:39 PM
Congratulations @charlotte. Looking forward to following the progress of the dress.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Ellabella on April 05, 2020, 15:36:50 PM
Many congratulations @charlotte, we do love a wedding here :D

At least you can plan your dress now, even if others things are on hold.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: BrendaP on April 05, 2020, 16:05:01 PM
Congratulations  :toast: <3 <3 :toast:
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on April 05, 2020, 16:05:18 PM
Congratulations! How refreshing to hear some happy news. Looking forward to hearing about your progress with that lovely dress!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Catllar on April 05, 2020, 16:44:09 PM
Congratulations, how exciting. Look forward to seeing the progress and thanks for sharing with us! :toast: :toast:
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Helen M on April 05, 2020, 17:12:09 PM
Congratulations @charlotte on your engagement  :toast:
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Efemera on April 05, 2020, 17:28:28 PM
Love a wedding dress!..look forward to seeing your progress.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on April 05, 2020, 18:20:04 PM
Congratualtions!  0_0

Looking forward to seeing pics  0_0
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: UttaRetch on April 05, 2020, 18:27:17 PM
Congratulations @charlotte on your engagement and forthcoming marriage.

I am currently hooked on the car crash television that is 'Say yes to the dress' and cannot believe the over-priced vulgarity that some brides choose.  Your dress is going to be fresh and lovely.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 05, 2020, 18:34:27 PM
Thank you all!

Obviously he was quite limited on what we could actually do, stuck at home but we had a lovely three course dinner and then he got down on one knee, taking me completely by surprise!!

Here is the ring in case anyone is interested:

(https://i.imgur.com/PUjdurol.jpg)
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: sewingj on April 05, 2020, 18:47:11 PM
@charlotte   stunning ring.  Did he choose it on his own?  If he did he`s definitely a keeper
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 05, 2020, 18:59:05 PM
@charlotte   stunning ring.  Did he choose it on his own?  If he did he`s definitely a keeper

He did! I had dropped some clues about liking Art Deco style jewellery and coloured stones but that was all he had to work with so I think he did very well indeed. :D
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Lachica on April 05, 2020, 19:34:28 PM
Lovely ring. I think you could hang on to him.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Nevis5 on April 05, 2020, 19:42:52 PM
Oh @charlotte  , many congratulations  :toast:  what lovely news.  The dress is going to be so beautiful!  Good luck!! xx
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on April 05, 2020, 22:32:58 PM
Congratulations @charlotte  and that is a beautiful ring.  I love art deco rings and that is a beaut.  Looking forward to seeing your dress come to fruition.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on April 05, 2020, 22:38:50 PM
Beautiful ring!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Manuela on April 13, 2020, 02:29:03 AM
Huge congratulations @charlotte, very much looking forward to your wedding dress making journey
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Sewingsue on April 13, 2020, 07:27:23 AM
Congratulations @charlotte  :toast:
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: snoozi soozi on April 13, 2020, 10:16:33 AM
Congratulations @charlotte  :)  Your ring looks sensational  :loveit:
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Silver Rose on April 13, 2020, 11:45:52 AM
Many congratulations @charlotte , lovely dress and  beautiful ring.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Surest1tch on April 13, 2020, 21:25:47 PM
Congratulations @charlotte, what a beautiful ring, your man has great taste.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 16, 2020, 14:59:32 PM
Right, I've made a start!

I am beginning from the inside out and have made a corselette toile. Two, actually, because the first one needed so many adjustments.

Features include:
- cut and sew foam cups
- underwires
- spiral steel boning
- offset back hook and eye fastenings
- an elastic combination-bust-and-waist stay (will also be offset on the actual dress)

And most importantly, I wore it all day yesterday whilst going about my day (working at my laptop, catching the mouse the cat brought in, a dance workout, cleaning the kitchen, cooking and eating) and it was surprisingly extremely comfortable!!

(https://i.imgur.com/R7j8ifzl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/F81kHt6l.jpg)

Starting on the bodice toile tonight, so will hopefully have some slightly less architectural pictures to share soon!

Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on April 17, 2020, 10:38:40 AM
Hi Charlotte, that's a good start you've made there.  Just thought I would make some suggestions for you.  I don't know if your dummy is made for you or is just a standard (I'm thinking made for you as it is a pretty cover), but please ensure that there is no excess fabric when you have the bodice on.  Boned bodices have to be absolutely snug to support the weight of the dress, so ensure that any wrinkles are pinched out and any excess fabric removed.

Another thing to consider is to have a laced panel under the zip area.  Zips are often not strong enough to take the strain of a boned bodice on their own.  I insert a laced panel, attached the side back seams, which when laced up properly has an inch gap between both lacing panels.  It is this that takes the strain and the zip therefore merely closes the dress. If, god forbids, the zip does fail, the dress will stay in place!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 17, 2020, 16:43:28 PM
Thanks @Missie for the suggestions - I definitely need all the help I can get!

Yes, I think I do need to take out a tiny bit more fabric (my dressform is a bit smaller than me, so not as much as it looks like).

I am aiming for a perfect fit at the top edge (so as to avoid squashy armpit fat) and then a tiny amount of negative ease everywhere else. The actual bodice which goes over it will have minimal positive ease. Does that sound right?

I was going to have the corselette do up with hooks and eyes, slightly offset from the centre back, and then the dress zip up separately over that. Perhaps a laced panel would be better than hooks and eyes though, and it might be easier to achieve the perfect amount of negative ease.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on April 17, 2020, 21:50:55 PM
I've only just seen your ring - I think that is the nicest ring I have ever, ever seen!!!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 17, 2020, 22:35:21 PM
I've only just seen your ring - I think that is the nicest ring I have ever, ever seen!!!

I think so too! But I am biased.  :D
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on April 18, 2020, 18:18:16 PM
Thanks @Missie for the suggestions - I definitely need all the help I can get!
I am aiming for a perfect fit at the top edge (so as to avoid squashy armpit fat) and then a tiny amount of negative ease everywhere else. The actual bodice which goes over it will have minimal positive ease. Does that sound right?

I was going to have the corselette do up with hooks and eyes, slightly offset from the centre back, and then the dress zip up separately over that. Perhaps a laced panel would be better than hooks and eyes though, and it might be easier to achieve the perfect amount of negative ease.

You don't want negative ease, just no ease, unless you do the hook and eye panel on a stretch mesh base (I've forgotten the name of the fabric, but it is used in dancewear and bras).  The rest of the boned layer needs to be on a firm fabric (eg fabric) with which you will not get negative ease.  And yes a hook and eye panel will work just as well as the laced panel.

To avoid "armpit fat", you need to ensure that the cup area is big enough as this "fat" is usually displaced breast tissue.  You just need to pull it (swoop and scoop) it into the cup area.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Tamnymore on April 18, 2020, 19:57:38 PM
Congratulations @charlotte. Lovely news. Very romantic!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 22, 2020, 14:34:39 PM
I finished my toile!

(https://i.imgur.com/Aoaw0Aol.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/rP8m4Ekl.jpg)

I am very happy with the overall shape. I have a few minor fit adjustments to make to the bodice, but I am pretty happy with it generally. I am redesigning the skirt so it will have five box pleats instead of six. There will be one at the centre front, and the side seams (and pockets, obviously!) can be tucked away under pleats.

I also have a crazy idea that I can cut the skirt from one piece of fabric on the crossgrain, with giant darts instead of side seams. This way there will only be one seam I have to deal with in the lace border, at the centre back.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Efemera on April 22, 2020, 20:43:15 PM
Looking good... you’re super speedy!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on April 23, 2020, 09:06:29 AM
That looks lovely. Good call re the box pleats!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on April 23, 2020, 09:49:44 AM
That dress is a lovely shape. Looking forward to hearing about progress!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Lachica on April 23, 2020, 23:31:47 PM
Lovely shaped dress. I like the pleats, and pockets are practical. If the lace design allows, cutting the skirt with giant darts instead of side seams will keep the lace motifs intact at the hem & sounds very sensible to me. The seam could then be at one side, hidden in the pleat. Everyone will see the back of the dress!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Sheilago on April 23, 2020, 23:46:31 PM
Congratulations on your engagement , a beautiful toile , so quickly made and a gorgeous ring ( love emeralds) . My daughter got married last year and we all had such a wonderful time with the preparations. I feel so sorry for all those who’ve had to cancel things this year. You’re very sensible to get on with what you can do and wait until things get better before you make plans for the date and place. You have so much to look forward to and once we are though this, your friends and family will be all the more delighted to help you celebrate on the big day.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 24, 2020, 11:30:04 AM
Lovely shaped dress. I like the pleats, and pockets are practical. If the lace design allows, cutting the skirt with giant darts instead of side seams will keep the lace motifs intact at the hem & sounds very sensible to me. The seam could then be at one side, hidden in the pleat. Everyone will see the back of the dress!

Yes, I thought about having the seam at the side, but I do need the zip down the back, so I think I do have to have it there. I am hoping that I will be able to disguise it with a 'couture lace seam'. I have instructions from both Alison Smith and Susan Khalje, where you cut around the motifs and overlap them, which creates an almost invisible join.

I am considering a detachable tulle train so that would cover up the back a bit whilst it is attached as well.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on April 24, 2020, 11:51:42 AM
Hi Charlotte,

I was just having another look at your toile, I can't see the side seams, but my suggestion re the box pleats would be to make them more generous/deeper at the waist.  I was just thinking that as the pleats are currently, the pockets might not be so well hidden in the side seams but I also appreciate that changing 6 pleats to 5 may change the look of the  pleats anyway.

Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on April 25, 2020, 16:00:53 PM
Hi Charlotte,

I was just having another look at your toile, I can't see the side seams, but my suggestion re the box pleats would be to make them more generous/deeper at the waist.  I was just thinking that as the pleats are currently, the pockets might not be so well hidden in the side seams but I also appreciate that changing 6 pleats to 5 may change the look of the  pleats anyway.

I’m on it! By having 5 pleats, the side seams should end up hidden in the folds. Plus I will be able to centre the motifs on the lace down the front pleat.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on May 13, 2020, 15:41:08 PM
My fabric arrived!!
This is the lace:

(https://i.imgur.com/I79OrI9l.jpg)

I also have separate matching motifs and trim to piece for the bodice. It's photographed over some pink cut and sew foam, which is not massively dissimilar from underlay - 'rosewater' silk habotai with a 'cyclamen' deep pink cotton lawn underlining.

(https://i.imgur.com/HzYAxNUl.jpg)

I tried out piecing the motifs on my toile as well.

(https://i.imgur.com/1Il966tl.jpg)

I am almost there with the fit - I just need a tiny bit more ease on the waistband to fix the drag-lines caused by my uneven hips. Looking at the above picture I may need to look at the neckline fit again, but it might just be creases in the fabric!

I'm pausing here for now, and using my pattern to make a knee-length cotton lawn dress with a silk organza yoke as a 'full practice' version, which I may wear to my brother's wedding ceremony in May 2021... If we are allowed out by then...
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Acorn on May 13, 2020, 16:19:45 PM
 :loveit:  They are gorgeous!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on May 13, 2020, 16:52:58 PM
That is so pretty! I love the lace against the pale pink silk.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on May 13, 2020, 16:57:41 PM
Ooh pretties!  The fabrics look lovely  :D
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on May 13, 2020, 19:28:05 PM
The lace looks lovely  :)
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Lachica on May 13, 2020, 23:04:31 PM
That's lovely, and against the pink silk will suit you very well.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Elnnina on May 14, 2020, 15:24:07 PM
The fabrics look lovely, and the fit is good as well.  Now just enjoy making all of this up.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: sewmuchmore on May 15, 2020, 18:38:43 PM
Only just come across so first congrats, secondly what a beautiful ring and thirdly fab dress and so much work in it all ready.
I do love a challenging wedding dress make but can't see any more wedding in the family for a long while, sigh.
@Missie Do you mean power mesh?
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Kenora on June 14, 2020, 20:49:16 PM
I've only just come across this post too (catching up), so many congratulations @charlotte .  :toast: Your ring and your dress are looking lovely.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on June 15, 2020, 11:46:31 AM
member=159]Missie[/member] Do you mean power mesh?

@sewmuchmore  Yes!  That's the one, thank you!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: maliw on June 15, 2020, 11:54:49 AM
How have I missed this???
First of all congratulations and a stunning ring, I love emeralds.
Your dress is going to be fabulous and a 'one off'.
I will watch and read your posts with interest to see your progress and I'm certain your finished dress will be gorgeous.
Im off as I'm begining to sound like a certain judge on Strictly CD.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 02, 2020, 09:53:21 AM
We've set a date and I've made a start! (February 2022 which sounds like ages away but is actually only 18 months and I think it will come round rather quickly...)

Corselette is cut out and the back panels are finished.

(https://i.imgur.com/0CwCJ76l.jpg)

The fabric is Liberty Tana Lawn Wild Flowers, which I am using for inside details, and is the same fabric that my bridesmaids' tops will be made from. It's underlined with the cerise cotton lawn that my main fabric will be underlined with, which gives it a pink tone. The top of the panels are edged with bias strips on the 'outside' (i.e. the side you will see when you unzip the dress), to match the main fabric.

I'm going to sew the front panels together, prep the side back panels, cut the boning and then tack everything together for a fitting before sewing it properly. These panels have a giant 1.5" seam allowance, so there is plenty of room for manoeuvre! I won't cut the bodice until I have finished fitting the corselette.

I also drew a picture:

(https://i.imgur.com/sF28EsPl.jpg)
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on July 02, 2020, 10:48:12 AM
Once again, lovely work! You choose some beautiful fabrics.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on July 02, 2020, 12:16:07 PM
That is very pretty @charlotte and gorgeous work as usual but you will need it to be made of firmer fabric than lawn.  It needs to support the boning and also the weight of the dress which lawn on its own just wont do.  Also the lawn will not be stable enough on its own and the seams may well tear under the strain.   Whenever I make boned bodices, I use tie canvas and lawn sewn together as one layer and this goes between the fashion fabric and lining (I don't tend to do separate corselette, but that is personal preference).
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 02, 2020, 14:46:47 PM
@Missie Hmmm... These back panels are double layers of underlined Tana Lawn. The underlining is also a cotton lawn, but a generic one and a lot heavier weight than the Liberty. The seams and boning channels are sewn through all four layers, with the separate boning channels sandwiched between the layers, so I think they are sturdy enough. The rest of the panels are currently just two layers rather than four (but still with separate boning channels), so in light of your advice I think I will mount them onto an additional canvas layer, or a second layer of the heavier weight cotton - the canvas might be too much with the two layers of lawn, but I will do some experimenting.

The corselette in my practice dress is just a double layer of Tana Lawn, but the skirt is a lot lighter than the skirt will be on the actual dress.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 15, 2020, 11:32:16 AM
Progress update:

I finished the corselette:

(https://i.imgur.com/4Rd7G5vl.jpg)

I added an extra layer of firm cotton to the two layers of lawn. I experimented with a petersham waist stay but I could not get it so that it was both tight enough to feel like it was holding everything up and loose enough that I could sit down and eat! Instead I sewed the petersham ribbon around the waist of the corselette and added an elastic stay for extra security. A bias strip around the top matches the fabric of the underbodice. You can see the hanging loops too, which are secured within the seam allowance at the waist. Once the dress in finished I will add some crocheted thread loops to hold them in place at the top edge.

I then had a complete disaster with my bodice

(https://i.imgur.com/3i3K6O0l.jpg)

In spite of what it looks like in the picture, this actually fits. The main problem, I think, was the way I applied the fabric and underlining together (i.e. really badly!), causing the horrendous wrinkly mess you can see above.

So I started again. I recovered the back panels but had to recut the front panels. Luckily they don't use much fabric.

I added an extra layer (calico at the front, and lawn at the back) with a few more strips of boning (originally I planned to only have boning in the corselette, but it was definitely needed in the underbodice too). It's only tacked together so far (hence the weird looking extra visible unpressed seams) but I am much much happier. Some of the boning is visible from the outside, so I plan to slip in some strips of cotton flannel between the layers where needed.

(https://i.imgur.com/cqsPTwil.jpg)


Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: wrenkins on July 16, 2020, 10:46:09 AM
@charlotte I have no idea what most of this means but I'm having a lovely time. Keep going. It's absolutely fascinating!
Piece of advice. Lots of people will stand on your dress (yes really...it's all the hugging) so make sure the bottom is well secured to the top!!!!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: RJR_38 on July 19, 2020, 07:53:40 AM
@charlotte I have no idea what most of this means but I'm having a lovely time. Keep going. It's absolutely fascinating!
Piece of advice. Lots of people will stand on your dress (yes really...it's all the hugging) so make sure the bottom is well secured to the top!!!!

Yep!! My photographer stood on mine before we even left for the church. The first I knew about it was when there was a rip sound and the whole room went silent... I could have cried and hit him in equal measure! Luckily it was the lace over the top and only a couple of inches in a place that wasn’t hugely visible. Mum safety-pinned it from the inside and you couldn’t tell.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Greybird on July 19, 2020, 09:53:03 AM
At OH's godson's wedding reception, a sitdown meal was being served when a waiter spilt a jugful of gravy into the bride's lap.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: wrenkins on July 19, 2020, 09:59:50 AM
Our soup went down the best man's back!  0_0
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 20, 2020, 10:37:20 AM
Assuming I get the length right, the hem will be a couple of cm off the floor, so hopefully less risk of being stood on! I am still undecided about a train, but if I do have it, it will be removable and only worn for the ceremony. I am also very clumsy and likely to spill things down myself without anyone's help. All I can hope is that I get some good pictures before that happens!  :D
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Syrinx on July 20, 2020, 10:53:18 AM
In case you're still having corselette problems, I'd recommend Sew Curvy - she's amazingly helpful with fabric and boning suggestions for all sorts. Was very happy to chat with me for a while about a dress that is now to be postponed for next year sadly (1940s pattern) as there are so many boning options depending on what you require. Also tape is amazing for boning channels, especially when testing fit. I do agree that lawn alone won't be strong enough and will be liable to warp and tear.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on July 20, 2020, 10:59:53 AM
Like wrenkins, I'm not entirely sure what's going on either, but find it fascinating!

Is the corselette a separate item, or is going to be sewn into the dress?  I have no idea how these things work  :S
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 20, 2020, 12:21:55 PM
@Bodgeitandscarper, the corselette will be sewn to the bodice along the top edge at the front, but they will remain separate at the back, as the corselette is a lot tighter than the bodice, and (along with the waist stay) essentially holds the whole dress up. This is a method often seen is vintage Dior dresses, like the one below.

(https://ninaleeloves.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/43bac09275e31aeaeae90e6cda37e454.jpg)

I'm not having the net attached to the corselette though, I'm keeping that separate.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on July 20, 2020, 13:11:44 PM
Thank you for the explanation, I like knowing how things are constructed - I'd never have the patience to make anything like that.
Look forward to seeing more  0_0
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on July 20, 2020, 13:25:49 PM
@Bodgeitandscarper, the corselette will be sewn to the bodice along the top edge at the front, but they will remain separate at the back, as the corselette is a lot tighter than the bodice, and (along with the waist stay) essentially holds the whole dress up. This is a method often seen is vintage Dior dresses, like the one below.

@charlotte the only thing I would say/ask you to consider is that the dress you have shown has straps, which which will take some of the weight of the dress whilst yours is strapless, which will require more engineering to hold it up.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 20, 2020, 14:30:28 PM
Thanks @Missie - yes you are right I will need more structure - I have already added an extra layer with additional boning to the bodice. The bodice overlay will be attached at the waistband and that will come over the shoulders but I do not want it to hold any weight whatsoever, as it will be made from a very delicate silk tulle. (I once made a dress with a silk organza yoke and no foundation support whatsoever. Guess how that ended!)

I am pretty confident my foundations will be structured enough to hold everything up, but as a worst case scenario I could always add straps to be camouflaged by lace appliques.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Syrinx on July 20, 2020, 15:00:17 PM
What are you using as boning?
I'd always suggest a pretty corsetry coutil but then I'm a sucker for some of those fabrics. I have a ridiculously gorgeous riding corset - far too pretty a coutil but I adore it  :loveit:

There are ways ou can use a more structured fabric and then sandwich it with a fashion fabric over the top so it still has the pretty look you like - all the strain taken by the structural fabric and the fashion fabric is all safe
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on July 20, 2020, 15:11:17 PM
The boning is spiral steel, held in calico channels.

The corselette is two layers of cotton lawn and a layer of firmer cotton (not quite canvas but not too lightweight). It also has foam cups and underwires, and the waist is reinforced with petersham ribbon.

The bodice is one layer of silk habotai, one layer of cotton lawn and then an additional foundation layer (with boning) of calico at the front and more lawn at the back.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Efemera on July 20, 2020, 15:16:36 PM
Gosh... the whole thing is a feat of engineering!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Syrinx on July 20, 2020, 16:06:42 PM
Ah OK, you'll want some flat steel boning in there too, spiral has a way of bending sideways if there isn't any flat steels at crucial points.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Bodgeitandscarper on July 20, 2020, 16:46:19 PM
I'm losing track here, how many layers of fabric are there going to be in all?  :S :o
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on July 20, 2020, 17:26:12 PM
The bodice overlay will be attached at the waistband and that will come over the shoulders

Apologies, I thought is was going to be strapless.

Re the boning, just make sure that the end caps are on securely for the spiral boning and I would even consider covering them in tape (plumbers tape) so they don't rip through the fabrics.  I would also use flat steels where there is no need for any movement in the steel.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on September 01, 2020, 10:22:53 AM
Here is my finished underbodice with my latest skirt toile.

(https://i.imgur.com/ir5htmXl.jpg)

And the back:

(https://i.imgur.com/CbvoOuPl.jpg)

You can see I've tacked a zip in for general fitting but it is now on hold until I have a fitting partner.

Bunting and bridesmaids' outfits now.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: SkoutSews on September 01, 2020, 11:52:58 AM
Looking good! I love the shape of the skirt.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: BriarRose on September 01, 2020, 15:28:29 PM
Oh, that is going to be so pretty.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on October 15, 2020, 13:55:09 PM
Right I'm really fed up now!

My friend was supposed to be coming to stay next weekend and she was going to help me fit my dress. Then Leeds went into Tier 2 and she can't anymore.

Then my mum was supposed to be coming from France at some point, so she would have been able to help but now (for various) reasons, she can't.

Now London is in Tier 2 so even if I could find someone else or settle for a non-sewing person's point of view it's not allowed.

I know there are much bigger problems in the world right now, but I would just love to get on with my dress and forget about everything else for a bit, but I can't because it's just silly to cut out the overlay and the skirt when I am not confident with the fit at the bust and waist.

 :angry:

Moan over.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Efemera on October 15, 2020, 15:25:35 PM
Bummer!....
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Acorn on October 15, 2020, 15:52:35 PM
What a pain.   :(  And what a shame we can't do it virtually - we have all the expert assistance you could need here.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Ohsewsimple on October 15, 2020, 16:17:24 PM
It’s a shame.  But even people visiting are supposed to keep their distance!
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: Missie on October 15, 2020, 16:49:35 PM
What a pain.   :(  And what a shame we can't do it virtually - we have all the expert assistance you could need here. 

Actually, we could.  I've done a fitting with a member of the previous forum/site.
Title: Re: My Wedding Dress
Post by: charlotte on October 15, 2020, 20:03:45 PM
I got quite far with my mum on a video chat, but I really wanted to have someone helping in real life before I went any further.

Still 15 month until the wedding, so plenty of time but I’m just a bit fed up! Plus we haven’t sent invites yet and I’m already planning how to uninvite people if government restrictions make that necessary!!