I have a white Featherweight and use one of these.  I'm in the US, but maybe the same type is available on your side of the pond?

@Vezelay ,
I think I misunderstood what you're trying to do.  Are you saying it feels as though you can't lift your arm without the sleeve binding?  If so, this video might be helpful. 
This Threads article talks about armscye fitting in general and may give you some possible starting points for figuring out where to begin other adjustments.  Getting a good fit is worth the time and effort and draping is much easier with a helper.  Once you have the right shape, it can be used to adjust other patterns.
I hope this better addresses what you were asking

I believe that raincoat was made by the amazing Manuela.   


I've seen tops (can't find a pic just now) where the border is at the hem, with the middle of the print forming the upper part of the top.  Facings made from the border part can be reversed and topstitched onto the public side, or used in collars, cuffs, etc.


ETA:  some Google images

Oh, too bad it wasn't as simple as that - I thought you would probably have tried that, but worth mentioning, just in case.  I hope you get it sorted quickly!

Also a knitting machine is really nothing like handknitting - there is a steep steep learning curve for setting one up.

This!  When I first became interested in them, I thought knitting machines were similar to sewing machines in that one machine could be used to knit pretty much any type of garment or item.  As it turns out, the machines are made for specfic wool thicknesses.  For thin wool (generally sock weight and thinner), one uses a standard gauge 4.5mm machine.  For thicker, but not bulky weight wool, a mid gauge (6-7mm), and for the bulky (but not extreme bulky types), a 9mm.  There are a range of other gauges, but those are the most common.


Next, the machines have the purl side facing you at all times.  It takes a bit of brain training to realize how stitches will look on the knit side as you work.  Also, it requires a ribber (an addition of a second needle bed) to make knit/purl ribbing with one pass of the carriage.  Without it, there are options that are close approximations or require more time and effort.  These are just a few differences from hand knitting to give you a general idea.  It's worth putting in some time to learn more before deciding on the one to buy.


I love my knitting machines (plural, to accomodate different types of yarn).  Once you do get past the learning curve, they are fast and fun.  There are still some types of knitting that are simpler to do by hand, but stockinette flies on the machine. 

Seconding BrendaP.  You may also want to check the gauge of the various different sections to see which is closest to the pattern recommendation before changing needle sizes.  It's very easy to get too tight with fair isle or too loose with mixed knit and purl stitch patterns - or both!  That will be a lovely sweater 

Me, too, on most of this.  I have a stained glass studio that I would love to use, but various health limitations make it challenging.  Not ready to let that go yet.  Photography is still a hobby and so much simpler in the digital age.  I do not miss film, chemicals and a dark room in the slightest.
For the most part, I keep returning to sewing and knitting, both by hand and machine.  I make things for fun or because I want something that I can't buy (for whatever reason). 
I donated a lot of quilting supplies to a local guild recently, keeping the basic rulers and a few favorite fabric pieces in case inspiration strikes.
It's harder to let go of sewing machines.  I have my grandmother's treadle, which is beautiful to look at, but I much prefer sewing on my TOL (but now headed toward vintage) electric machines.  I do still take out my little Featherweight just for the fun of using it.  I have a few other vintage machines that I bought for next to nothing.  It was fun cleaning and fixing them but I think I'd rather have the storage space they use now.