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Topics - elisep

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The Show Must Go On / Queen Ravenna
« on: June 14, 2019, 10:45:39 AM »
So each year in August the company that I work for puts on a gala dinner. The theme alternates between a black-tie-esque theme and a proper costume theme. Last year was James Bond, so this year, Comic-Con!  :D
Of course this makes me super happy as I love making costumes!
It's taken me about 3 months to make a decision, because I really just wanted to make everything! But I've finally decided upon Queen Ravenna - from Snow White and the Huntsman (also Huntsman: Winter's War).

This is my inspiration photo;

Though I am not doing a direct copy. I'd like mine to be black and gold (not silver).
I'm using Simplicity 1045 as my base to work from, with a few alterations.
Charlize's dress appears to me to be made from suede which will be much too heavy to wear for an evening of dancing! So I'm going for a black velvet and I'm going to have a play around with the devore technique to see if I can get it to work. And then use gold fabric paint to make some sort embellishment. I like the idea of gold stamped feathers all over the dress - she is a "raven" after all. If I can find an appropriate stamp that is.

I've also decided to make a bodysuit to wear underneath. Pattern for this is Simplicity 8670. I'm going to make it in skin colour powermesh covered in black lace - to get the idea of the black undersleeves, with a dual function of holding in all my lumpy bits!  :P

So the first step is to create the bodysuit! I've no idea how much negative ease will give me a reduction/smoothing out of my figure in the power mesh... and google is not really helping. The pattern appears to have a 1 inch negative ease at the bust for a C cup. So I think I'll start by cutting 1 size down, and do fitting adjustments on the power mesh as I go. I'm planning for a double layer of the mesh (at the very least, in the side front/back pieces) for extra sucking-in power! Hoping I won't have any issues using a stretch lace over the power mesh, too. 

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Fun with Fabric / Performance Jersey?
« on: February 04, 2019, 11:23:26 AM »
I'd like to make myself a couple of long sleeve base layer tops and polo tops for horse riding (can't justify $80 on a "brand" one!!)
Here's what I'm trying to replicate
I've found Simplicity 8704.

Now I need to find the appropriate fabric. I'm not that familiar with knits so would appreciate some help! I'd love the fabric to be moisture wicking, SPF if possible, and not too shiny! Something with a bit of Merino would be amazing for the depths of winter but not absolutely necessary. Probably going to have to order online as I've never seen the kind of fabric I need in stores.

Are these the kinds of fabric I'm looking for?
https://www.moodfabrics.com/red-antibacterial-and-wicking-polyester-jersey-320550
https://www.moodfabrics.com/calm-pacific-striated-wicking-and-anti-microbial-performance-jersey-316721
https://www.moodfabrics.com/midnight-black-max-dri-performance-jersey-310883
https://www.activefabrics.co.uk/functional-fabrics-tricot/coolmax/melanie-coolmax-melange.html
https://www.activefabrics.co.uk/functional-fabrics-tricot/coolmax/marie-coolmax-anthracite.html
I've ordered a few samples from activefabrics.co.uk to get me started!

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Fun with Fabric / Has anyone used Saroj fabrics before?
« on: November 01, 2018, 06:12:28 AM »
Just came across this website on my travels online looking for reasonably priced silk linings.

https://www.sarojfabrics.com/Dye-40-gms-Pure-Habotai-Silk-Fabric

The prices seem to be good to be true, and they'll dye as little as 1 metre for you. They've got Dupion, Velvet, Crepe, Georgette, and other non silk fabrics you can get dyed. Obviously they are catering for the indian market mostly as they have beautiful sari fabrics.
I'd like to order a length to see what the quality is like, but shipping is pricey to Australia. It would work out cheaper than buying locally if I bought several pieces, but I'm wary of doing so unless I know what the quality is like!

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Fun with Fabric / Latest haul!
« on: September 13, 2018, 11:18:10 AM »
Thought I'd share a few pieces I've bought lately!


Left to right -
A beautiful piece of silk crepe de chine with a feather pattern. This was an absolute find for $20/m - I went back the other day to see if I could get more to use as a lining, sadly it's all sold out. I was planning on making a simple summer dress for work but I've been invited to a wedding in late October so may use it for that instead. Perhaps I can find a style that will dress up for a wedding but down for work!

Cream silk satin, planning to make this up into Burda 6632 with long sleeves.

Dusky blue silk satin for the stash. I bought it to replace a lining in a coat but I'm not sure on the colour for the coat I had in mind. I'll probably keep it in the stash till next winter and use it if I don't find a better option for the coat.

Dark brown sandwashed silk crepe de chine. To make up into a dress for work. Probably a simple shift style with a self-belt.


Left to right
Linen look rayon. Thought this might make a nice summer work dress but now I'm worried I'm going to look like a curtain! Perhaps something like Vogue 9021

3 x Cotton shirting remnants, cream self stripe (hard to tell from the photo). Only just over a metre so it'll probably become a sleeveless shirt.
A lovely teal stripe remnant, ditto to the above.
Blue & White stripe remnant, hoping there'll be enough to make a shirt for horse riding competitions (long sleeve with a "ratcatcher" collar) as it's perfect for my club colours.

I'm hoping for plenty of sewing time over the weekend as the weather is meant to be rubbish!

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A bit of a 'do' / A purple velvet ball gown, or, what was I thinking?
« on: July 09, 2018, 15:07:42 PM »
Coming up in August I have my once-yearly work function. Each year has a theme and this year it's "Bond" AKA just black tie.
As usual my decision on what to wear has changed several times (I know better than to start too early as I'll change my mind!) and I've settled on a full skirted, silk velvet gown in "wine purple".

My original plan was to use McCalls 7685 for the bodice and draft my own skirt. But now, I'm starting to get concerned that the pattern is less than ideal for velvet.

I'm liking Vogue 1474 more and more, however I would prefer a deeper V neck and I just don't think there's any way I can bone that bodice.
I'd also be drafting my own skirt rather than the skirt on the bias and I don't know how I could get that to work at the centre back seam.

Upon further searching, I've found this pattern which appears to be quite close to what I want, save that the back is closed. That's easily altered though. I'm a bit hesitant to use a vintage reproduction pattern though. Of the three I think this would be the simplest to make though, and I wouldn't have to draft my own skirt pattern.

Any advice or other pattern recommendations welcome!

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Fun with Fabric / Peachy orange soft suiting?
« on: June 15, 2018, 11:15:31 AM »
I have a soft drapey RTW blazer that I absolutely adore, but it's seen so much wear now that the only suitable place for it is the bin. The cuffs are stained and I've tried everything to get them clean but I just have to accept defeat.
I normally don't have an issue getting rid of clothes beyond their useful life, but the issue with this jacket is, it really coodinates with a lot of clothes in my wardrobe that I wear to work. And since taking it out of circulation I am having trouble putting together enough outfits!

So, I'm wondering whether I can find something close enough in colour and make a replacement. It's a peachy orange colour, but I have no idea how to describe the fabric. It's a drapey fabric, medium weight - almost like a crepe but it's smooth and slightly shiny - not enough to be a satin though.
I'll order from anywhere as long as I can order a sample first to check the colour. Has anyone seen anything like this in their travels on the internet?

Edited to add - I don't mind on the finish of the fabric so much, the colour is the most important thing... but I would prefer it to be soft and drapey!

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I've tried numerous times to draft my own sloper. I've bought the Suzy Furrer course on Craftsy (didn't really like her method), have the Helen Armstrong textbook (I have succeeded in making a sloper from this but it was some time ago and I've gained weight since then). I'd love to go and do a course as then I'll be forced to complete something, but I just don't have the funds at the moment.
My main issue is it takes so long, when really what I want to be doing is getting on and making a garment. Try as I might I've not been able to convince myself it's worth all the fuss.

But I really want to start working on my own designs, and also need to pad my dressform out to my current shape. I'll be happy if I can take a sloper/block and create my own designs from it as the creative side in me will enjoy that process.

A few weeks ago Butterick patterns were on sale and on a whim I picked up the Fitting Shell pattern. Will this suit my needs? If I make it up and fit it to my shape, then transfer the pattern onto card? Will the Shell have wearing ease built in? If it does, is it possible to remove the wearing ease (once fitted) to turn it into a block for my dressform?

Or do I really, really just have to suck it up and commit to drafting my own sloper?  ><

Edited to add - I've just remembered I've got the Pattern Maker free download which will give me a basic sloper. Perhaps this is a better way to go than the fitting shell?

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Patterns Discussion / Marfy patterns?
« on: July 01, 2017, 13:56:39 PM »
I've done a bit of a google and can't find much really, on the Marfy patterns. I really would love to make this;
http://www.marfy.it/sewing-pattern-2745.html

But as they are a single size, I am a bit worried about what to expect. Normally I chose my size based on the finished garment measurements as I find most of the "big 4" companies use ridiculous amounts of ease. Has anyone used Marfy before and is the amount of ease ok?
I'm aware that they don't include seam allowances or instructions, that won't bother me.

Thanks in advance!

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Fun with Fabric / Are all faux suedes created equal?
« on: June 06, 2017, 13:11:45 PM »
My newest crusade is to make myself some riding breeches... every pair I have in my wardrobe have mysteriously shrunk  :|  :(
I'm making full seated breeches and need "Ultrasuede" for the seat. Now, if I understand correctly, Ultrasuede is a trade name, and any faux suede should be suitable?
Does anyone have any advice for me? It needs to be hardwearing... as you can imagine the seat of a pair of breeches gets a bit of wear!!
I've found some on Ebay in various colours for a good price (and free shipping from the UK!) but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a good quality faux suede online?

Thanks!

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In the wardrobe / UFO Busting!
« on: May 21, 2017, 14:49:00 PM »
I thought I'd make myself a thread all of my own to track my progress on my UFOs. I was away travelling for 6 months (and expected to be away for longer, but my plans changed) so I've a fair few things that I put away and am trying to cut through. Unfortunately I put on a few kg's while away so I suspect a few things may be to small! But will cross those bridges as I get to them.
I'm hoping to intersperse my UFO-busting with new projects otherwise I'll get a bit bored! I'm also on a pretty tight budget at the moment so trying to limit my purchase of new fabrics (why is it so hard?  :| ) and also use up a bit of my stash!!

First on my list is Vogue 9157, view C (mandarin/stand up collar) in black melton wool. I'm making it as per length of view A though, for a casual coat. I hand tailor my coats and was going swimmingly on this one, nearly finished the outer and ready to move onto the lining, when I got stumped by the collar. I finally figured out that the front part of the collar, with the two buttons, is just a floating piece that buttons on. I really don't like this idea as I feel it's going to sit strangely when the coat is unbuttoned. So I lost interest in it and put it away  (that was last winter  :|) so now I'm re-working it to have a normal stand up collar, I've unpicked the collar and will add in a "front collar" at the side front seam with a bound buttonhole to match the rest, and pad stitching done by hand.

Current progress is - front collar re-drafted, bound buttonhole worked and hair canvas is pinned ready for pad stitching. After that I can then sew the lining together and sew that in. I might even get to wear it this winter!

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Fun with Fabric / Trouble pressing silk/wool blend
« on: May 02, 2017, 13:33:40 PM »
Hi all,
Does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting a seams to stay pressed in an unruly fabric? I've just made up a softly structured blazer (Butterick 5928) in what I was told was a silk/wool blend. I bought it at a warehouse sale, so can only go on the seller's word, and no idea what the various percentages are. It's a light suiting weight, gorgeous fabric and very silky. I just can't get the seams to stay pressed, they keep softening. The hem particularly is a nightmare. It's not a standard jacket hem, I think it's what they call a bagged hem? and it just won't stay neatly pressed. In my experience silk and wool normally press very nicely... maybe it's actually a polyester blend? I should do a burn test.
Any ideas? Spray starch maybe? I've never had to use anything like that before. Help!

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Hi, I'm new... / Another newbie here from TSF!
« on: May 02, 2017, 13:20:10 PM »
Hi everyone,
I'm so happy to have found TSP! I'm another from TSF, and have missed it terribly since it went down. Such a shame that all that wealth of information has been lost.
Anyway, I'm from Melbourne, Australia, and have been sewing for a few years now. I mostly make clothes for myself, but I love making costumes, and enjoy making the odd quilt here and there. One day I would like to make a business out of sewing, but I've a long way to go before I get there.
I look forward to getting to know you all!

Elise

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