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1
Vintage Machines / Re: Restoring a Jones Treadle Cabinet
« on: February 11, 2020, 20:55:33 PM »
I am impressed! How did you get the white paint off? I have a few pieces of furniture someone painted white, and I have so far managed to sand it off half way. I love the classic stained oak finish.

2
Fun with Fabric / Re: Santa suit fabric
« on: January 12, 2020, 18:04:10 PM »
I found an uk based ebay store with a good reputation. I have bougth two yards of a slik-viscose blend in red. The basic red is very red and suitable for Christmas. My trouble is finding the right hue, I need a dark red, or something like "burnt red". It has a bit of stretch diagonally, but nothing side to side or up and down the bolt of fabric. I'm not a silk expert at all, but the price isnt' bad at all, and I would say it's better quality than most velvets around. I like cotton-viscose velvets too.

I have to add; this fabric has a hint of luxury, but it is light, not the heavy type you might be looking for.

3
Vintage Machines / Re: Singer 99k - she’s fighting back!
« on: January 12, 2020, 12:14:10 PM »
Good to hear things are working. It's a common problem, in some cases I have had to take off the hand wheel too, clean and lubricate both the inner of the wheel as well as the metal rod it slides on. The generous amount of oil seems to make a difference.

What was wrong with the original bobbin winder, it might just have needed abit of cleaning tuning and oiling, maybe a new bobbin tyre.

As you well know, a 99K should run light and smoothly when sorted out :- )

4
Vintage Machines / Re: oil
« on: January 12, 2020, 12:08:27 PM »
Sewing machine oil is a pure, acid free mineral oil, around SAE10, so quite light. The bottles I have had over the years have varied a bit in thickness, not  much, and it has never been a problem.

It's the same oil used for bicycle chains, but be carefull when buyting these days. Most oils are something else than the basic oil, optimised for particular conditions, with additives that might make a mess in a sewing machine. Motor oils are too heavy to be ideal, and the various additives can be less than an advantage in a sewing machine.

I have  never needed lubricants in large quantities, 120 ml last a year at least and I use it for more than sewing machines.

If you want to venture into different oils, Finish Line Ceramic Wet Lube, and TriFlow are the only ones that have tured out well in the long run. There's too many brands out there to have a comprehensive view of the situation and the additives varies a lot.

5
Machine Accessories / Re: walking foot
« on: January 05, 2020, 22:05:54 PM »
How are you doing?

I think I would take a chance on a generic, Singer feet aren't that expensive either. I would of course check and test sew carefully to see if it worked with the machine.

I have ruined a jumping embroidery foot I borrowed from my Elna Supermatic. It's in theory a basic low shank, but the angle for the finger on the attachment to the needle clamp can be wrong enough to do damage. Zigzag width can be an issue, as well as needle position, but these attachmetns can be oddly compatible between brands.

There too many models even among the Singer and Janome brand, you need to choose carefully to be absolutely sure. 



6
Vintage Machines / Re: Old Viking won't zig-zag
« on: January 04, 2020, 15:17:13 PM »
I see the add is gone now, but I would give an old Husqvarna a chance. I know the old 19 and 21 are prone to freeze up and need quite a bit of oiling to shift smoothly again. It's relatively common for these to be stuck in reverse or not zigzagging properly, it is all about tentative, repeated oiling. These are very nice machines when they are sorted out, and all gears are metal. Knobs and cams are plastic. It's not always easy to do more than clean up and minor repairs on these. I think the race and hook area requires special tools to be fully disassembled. The ones I worked on only needed cleaning, oiling, and new belts for the motor.

The later models I don't know much about. Some are easier to clean and sort out in the hook and bobbin case area. Unless there's something major, they often run fine after a cleaning and DIY service. You have to oil the gears, even if they are so called lubrication free. After 40 to 60 years, the sintered gears are in desperate need of new oil. The advantage with these are the stitch pattern cassettes, if you look for stretchy stitches it's hard to find all metal models among any brand. New belts can be a problem to find, at least the cleated ones. I guess these are the models LeilaMay warn you about, if gears crack, macine is missing driving belts, etc it cam be more that just a bit of work to have a fully working machine.

I once bought a non-working Elna Supermatic for about $40, all it needed was a lot of cleaning and oiling. It sewed fine when I got the correct bobbin, and ran even better when I replaced the friction wheel on the motor. Some times it's worth taking a chance; I got a machine with freearm zigzagger and stretchy stitches.

7
Vintage Machines / Re: Singer 99k handcrank
« on: April 16, 2019, 21:27:00 PM »
I should make a pair of pot holders too. I used to have a single red pot holder with a sort of pocket that made it very handy, the hand slipped in easily into it and were insulated. I haven't seen any like it for ages, I guess it's one of those things we have to make our self. What type of batting for pot holders?

You have sorted it all out now, but when my old 99 didn't release tension it was cause by very sticky old oil at the bottom behind the face plate. There is a lever tilting back and forth, it has to be clean and only a bit of clean, fresh oil on the metal parts.

8
Vintage Machines / Re: Jones Z-620 sewing machine
« on: March 28, 2019, 19:34:25 PM »
These are usually all metal machines, and if so they are worth the effort to get them running again. I expect all it needs is cleaning and oiling, maybe new bobbin tyre and motor belt. The bobbin case is usually a class 15 (made by Brother); it can be a bit of a guess work, but it's a good place to start and neither cost too much. Start by oiling the presser bar if it doesn't move; I'm guessing there's oil points behind the face plate and maybe something related to the setting knob on top. Every joint, gear, hinged part needs oil; take off the top, open the face plate, unscrew the needle plate; clean and then add two drops of oil, turn the machine, and yet another drop and a bit of test sewing. Ebay is a good place to search for parts if you don't have a local store; Helen Howes knows everything about it.


9
Vintage Machines / Re: Singer 185K
« on: March 19, 2019, 18:32:33 PM »
The 99K has heavier cast iron body, the 185 is a bit more slender, but still not that much lighter, unless it's aluminium. It could account for the sound difference. Singer used various motors, some had better bearings than others. I assume yours have the later lubrican free version; the earlier version that needs grease might be a tad smoother, but it's arguable. The lugged neoprene belts make my 201 more noisy. 

As you well know, the internals are the same on the 99s and 185s, they should in theory both run nicely, with only minor differences. ...I'm just thinking out loud...

10
Vintage Machines / Re: A lightbulb moment...
« on: March 19, 2019, 18:23:17 PM »
The 185K is pretty late, so it has the double insulation mark (square within square). As long as  insulation and everything are fine it should be up to standard. I have had the Singer lamp appart and soldered on new wiring (1950 machine), it was relatively easy and straight forward if needed. Does your machine have the larger lamp with the turn switch? Remember it only goes clockwise, if you ever go anticlockwise you brake some copper parts in there. The new LED bulbs work well in this lamp, no problem with heat accumulating under the lumpy glass lens.

11
Vintage Machines / Re: Singer 185K
« on: March 17, 2019, 02:10:24 AM »
I knew it had to be something with your 185K, Jessie. With this model (much the same was with 99s) there are a few things to go through; don't give up on cleaning and oiling, scrape out every groove and corner where lind and grime gathers. I use wooden coctail pins and tooth picks. Take the bother too undo all lids and covers to oil and poke out any dust and grime.

The feed dogs run on a cam like part under the bed, the roller inside it is suppose to turn freely, and can be gummed up by oil  oil and grime. This is one of those things you don't really notice unless you know about, because the machine will stitch and run regardless; but it runs noticeably smoother when it turns, and much less wear on the parts too.

Poke down all the oil points on top of the machine with a tooth pick too, to make sure oil reaches the turning parts inside. If it's not as smooth as it should be, take the machine into use, oil and tend to it a bit every day and you will get to the root of the problem.

If the machine was in hardly used condition when you got it, I have heard some say they run smoother after being use a while. If the noise comes from the bobbin case, it might need a bit of adjustment. The bobbin race and hook needs to be adjusten enough for the upper thread to pass around and pick up the bobbin thread with out any drag, but not leave too much room for the bobbin case to rattle. This adjustment is a bother, and should be done with a top stitch thread.

12
Sewing Machines / Re: Now I know why I never touch my machine
« on: March 09, 2019, 20:12:02 PM »
Not at all @arrow  I buy new for each project ,make said item and discard the excess  ;) simples  :ninja:

It's fine with me, when do you discard the Innovis and get something better?  How large pieces do you discard then? I've seen small squares of quilting fabric sold on ebay, brand new, but only one square. I have some times kept meters of fabric on a roll, on a shelf for years. The only thing I have now are meters of taffeta silk, not sure what to do with it. I like to have a box of material on hand.

13
Sewing Machines / Re: Now I know why I never touch my machine
« on: March 09, 2019, 17:05:21 PM »
...I can no more see why people would keep scraps than i can see why they'd have a second machine  :P Each to their own I say  :angel:

I thought scraps were half the point with quilting? Either way, one machine for your purpose is doable, but you probably have to spend more money on it and do a bit of research to make sure it meets your requirements.

14
Sewing Machines / Re: Now I know why I never touch my machine
« on: March 08, 2019, 02:28:09 AM »
@...arrow, I cannot understand why anyone would have more than one machine ( or any other piece of kit ) If I can't use my machine for any reason, I hand sew or do something else  :)
As for Gutterman's thread, I only do patchwork and quilting so only use 100% cotton...

My favorite machine is a straight stitch cast iron vintage machine. It's in a small table and I swear it's a joy to work on and not comparable with any fancy new model. I need a free arm too, with zigzag and some practical stitch patterns. For me they are minimum of what I need, and I'm sometimes thinking of an overlocker, but so far I have done fine. I guess the sew all polyester is mostly for the strength and I mostly use it for clothes, much the same for top stitch weights too. For adjusting bobbin tension, you should just get a second bobbin case to play around with and keep the original untouched. The upper tension might be auto, but sometimes needs a bit of tweaking for special threads (which might mean anything else than medium sew all weights).

15
Sewing Machines / Re: Now I know why I never touch my machine
« on: March 07, 2019, 00:40:47 AM »
...I bought new, very expensive thread ( Superior ) and new, very expensive needles ( Superior ) to go with my newly serviced machine ( my machine won't tolerate Guttermans )

I'cw mentioned it before, but for me Gütermann thread has turned out the be the most even quality and trouble free of them all (sew-all polyester). I've had the top stitch and extra strength threads too and it is high quality. I have their cotton thread as well. The polyester threads leaves much less dust than any other brands. I like most mercerised cotton threads though and I'm not that picky, neither are my machines.

Do you have a simple straight stitcher or other machine for backup? Sometimes it can be the machine, not ideal for some types of work. The odd thing is the Gütermann thread, at least sew-all polyester. It's common for a machine not to accept top stitch threads that well; some need a special bobbin case for it.

You have to check the bobbin tension when switching to a new thread, they are all different, weight, thickness, smoothness. I guess your Innovis has auto tension for the upper thread?

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