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Messages - Sewingforfun

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Here is my offering this month - my new Latin dance dress, made for a competition in Blackpool this coming weekend. The pattern is self-drafted, based on my existing ballroom pattern. Not all of it worked as it should have, but the stones cover a multitude of sins!

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It was inspired by two rather fabulous dresses made by Chrisanne for Mia Linnick-Holden, a top young UK competitor.

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It started off meaning to be a red version of the black one - you can still see this in the AB (silver) central pattern of the stoning, the shape of the skirt, and the band at the bottom, but in the end, I decided it needed more on the top to balance the hips, so added bits from the red one in the form of the fringe on the bust, the lace and more stoning all over.

I left off the hip fringe for the same reason, and made it in a solid crepe as befitting someone who is nearly 53 and not 13 like the girl in the pictures ( :o :o)! I also didn't use didn't use nearly as many stones, although there are still several thousand, and I think the effect will be OK.

I'm pleased with how it's come out, although there was an initial wobble as the original conception (minus lace and fringe, and with a horizontal seam at hip level) really didn't suit my somewhat pear-shaped figure! I'm looking forward to wearing on Sunday.

The Show Must Go On / Re: Halloween hits the ballroom!
« on: October 25, 2019, 16:47:14 PM »
Loving the costumes Jackie but don't understand all the initials? :S ??

Watch with T.4.1.

The Show Must Go On / Re: Halloween hits the ballroom!
« on: October 24, 2019, 15:21:08 PM »
Those are really cute!! You are so clever!

In the wardrobe / Re: Alice in Hong Kong coat
« on: October 21, 2019, 16:21:49 PM »
That's amazing! So beautiful. And I also wish you had been my teacher! What lucky kids.

Those trousers look nice! Good colour.

When I was a child in America, there was a particular catalogue (L L Bean) that offered things like the "hunting pant" and the "walking shoe". My father always said they'd perfect for a one-legged person. It drives me mad that pant has now entered the vernacular.

But also being American, I'm in a constant muddle about what I'm wearing where. And don't get me started on fannys.

The Show Must Go On / Re: Newest dresses
« on: September 22, 2019, 10:24:58 AM »
WoW! Those are gorgeous!

Vintage Machines / Re: Buttonholer for a 99K
« on: September 17, 2019, 13:47:12 PM »
For various and complicated reasons I have not one, but two Griest buttonholers (Model 1 - side screw clamping, the most common one, fits most machines) that I'd like to sell!! These take the metal cams.

Between them I have one complete set of all the templates including the extras except the eyelet plus one set of the 5 regular templates. One buttonholer is the older black metal model, the other the blue plastic one. Both have boxes (slightly dented), and there is one manual. I know the blue one works because I've used it, and the black one moves the way its supposed to, so it also ought to work. I've given both an oiling and cleaning.

I'd say £20 plus postage for one (chose your colour) with the complete set of templates, of £15 for one with the 5 templates.

You will need to provide your own thingy to screw it into. I think this was part of the setup of the older machines, on my Bernina 1008 I use a screw on foot attachment.

Sewalongs and Competitions / Re: We have a winner...
« on: August 18, 2019, 18:30:56 PM »
Well done @Efemera !!! Very nice!

Technical Help / Re: Sleeveless bodice lining construction
« on: August 15, 2019, 18:25:40 PM »
Ah, I see. Bias and facings will be your friends. Thing is, no one but you knows what it's "supposed" to be like, so the rest of us will just think it's fabulous.  0_0

Technical Help / Re: Sleeveless bodice lining construction
« on: August 15, 2019, 14:06:23 PM »
Maybe I'm being dim, but can you not sew the lining to the bodice at the armholes right sides together, then fold it in to cover those seams, then either do the same with as much of the neck seam as you can then slipstich the rest or just slipstitch the whole neck? If you haven't done the shoulder seams of the lining, you could leave one of those open a bit. You just need an area that's left open to pull the lining through to turn it around.

Technical Help / Re: Fly front trousers front dart
« on: August 04, 2019, 17:48:35 PM »
I'd probably just straighten up the fronts a smidge, it sounds like you don't need too much extra and I wouldn't be inclined to mess with the pockets/hips if they are fitting nicely.
Is it a curved waistband?

Thanks, and yes, it is a curved waistband, so maybe straighten the end of that a little too?

Technical Help / Fly front trousers front dart
« on: August 04, 2019, 11:43:05 AM »
Hello! I have a question about fly fronts and darts. I love my new jeans (see Sewing the Blues competition), but they and I are not quite the same shape at centre front.

The pattern clearly has quite substantial front darts transferred to centre front (see picture), but on me this cuts in a bit at the waist although the waist is overall the right size and they are a nice fit over the hip.
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I realise I could straighten the front a bit and take the same off the side seam, but is there also some clever way to shift the “dart” into the pocket area without altering the side seam? That would preserve my nice side seam.

Those jeans look simply amazing. I also love the pretty fabric you’ve used on the inside.
Well fitting jeans are a nightmare to buy so I can’t begin to imagine how hard it must be to produce something that looks so professional. I’m in awe of your talent.  :|

@WildAtlanticWay - thank you, very kind! I made them in a class, which helped, but they weren't nearly as hard as they look (or as I expected). The place I went (The New Craft House) is running another jeans class in October.. I see you are in Ireland, but there were two ladies from Switzerland and one from Denmark on the one I went to, so it might be an excuse for a weekend in London...?? ;)

Closet Case also does a video class, and also has a sew along on its blog.

SewingforFun's Blue Jeans!!

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What did you make and what material did you use?
The Closet Case Morgan jeans (non-stretch "boyfriend" style). The main fabric is a 14oz non stretch indigo denim, the pockets and waistband lining are a printed cotton poplin, both from Raystitch in Islington. The antique gold rivets and buttons were a kit from Closet Case supplied in the class, but you can get similar online from them or on ebay.
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Pattern used (commercial or self-drafted, anything goes)
Closet Case Morgan.  I'll definitely make this pattern again. It's a really fun project, and not as hard as it looks if you follow the steps in the correct order. I don't think they look handmade, but the fit is definitely custom.

A short description on how you made it/problems overcome/etc.
 I made them (mostly) in a two day class at The New Craft House in Hackney on the 13th and 14th of July taught by Heather-Lou, the Closet Case designer, with a bit of final topstitching and hemming at home. Before the class, I made two toiles, one muslin, and a second "wearable" one, then the jeans themselves were fitted again in the class.

The pattern was true to shop size (I made, and normally wear, a 12). I scooped the crotch curve both front and back, and tinkered with the back length. We also made some adjustments to the hang of the legs. She recommended a knock-knee adjustment that I'll do next time, and I think a bit more leg tinkering is in order, but overall they fit a zillion times better than any jeans I've ever bought!

The topstitching was fiddly, and took some practice (and unpicking), but my oh my, what fun to do in a jazzy yellow on the dark navy! The wearable toile (as yet not quite finished) has bright orange on mid grey linen....  If you look carefully at the back view, you can see where I chalked a fancy set of initials onto one pocket, then decided my machine embroidery was not up to snuff. Another time.

My biggest issue was the *()&%$£ Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 machines they have in the studio. I cannot say how much I hated this machine - it had an evil mind of its own, at one point just randomly starting to sew even though I was nowhere near the presser foot (we think I brushed the start button, which I didn't even know it had), and every time it also carried on backstitching even though I had turned off the back stitch. It also struggled with the heavy fabric, jammed constantly, etc etc etc.  :angry: :angry: The difference when I got back to my Bernina 1008 could not have been greater. It just sailed through the denim, even when there were lots of layers, and generally did just what I wanted it to do. Any craving I might have had for an electronic machine is now totally gone! :D

Oh and it's too warm to wear them! I put them on for the photo, and took them straight back off again. This is a problem I think I can live with.

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