The Sewing Place

Square shoulder adjustment on a pattern with a yoke

Helen M

Square shoulder adjustment on a pattern with a yoke
« on: July 02, 2019, 12:06:21 PM »
Can anyone tell me how I manage this please?

I usually make up to 1/2" adjustment to a normal pattern with a shoulder seam with success but I shy away from raglan sleeves and the one attempt at a top with a sort or yoke didn't work. I'm not sure if it was the pattern or me that time.

The one that failed had the back come over to the front so no proper shoulder seam to work with. I cut into the the pattern at shoulder point and flared it out a bit. It didn't fit round the neckline and the shoulders didn't lie flat. As I said maybe it was half the fault of the pattern.

The pattern I'm planning on useing is Love Notions Rhapsody blouse https://www.lovenotions.com/product/rhapsody-blouse-xs-xxxl. It has a proper yoke and wondered if I should just add a little at the lower outer edge and hope for the best? This will be the first time that I have used their patterns so don't know how they fit.

Any thoughts?

Stash Busting 2021
Goal: 35 metres
So far: 4 metres

BrendaP

Re: Square shoulder adjustment on a pattern with a yoke
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2019, 21:14:59 PM »
It looks to me as though the shoulder seam is just a couple of inches forward of the top of the shoulder. Because it's pleated at the front the easier option for the square shoulder adjustment is to mark the 'normal' shoulder seam on the back bodice.  Slash through that and pivot from the neck to open out the arm edge as much as necessary, and fill in with tissue.  Measure the additional width at the armscye and add half that amount straight across the sleeve cap just above the level of the balance notches.

It looks as though the back yoke is double so you won't need to adjust any facings.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Helen M

Re: Square shoulder adjustment on a pattern with a yoke
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2019, 23:06:45 PM »
Thank you Brenda.

I've just printed off the pattern so will study the yoke pieces tomorrow. I've not decided on which of the short sleeves to do. It may depend on the amount of fabric I have to work with.
Stash Busting 2021
Goal: 35 metres
So far: 4 metres

b15erk

Re: Square shoulder adjustment on a pattern with a yoke
« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2019, 09:00:48 AM »
Personally, I would do a toile, especially as you haven't used the pattern before.

Use an old sheet, or a couple of old T shirts if it's a jersey type fabric.

It's awfully disheartening when you spend a long time on a project and it just isn't going to fit.

I've just done a toile for a Butterick pattern, and thought it was nice enough to wear - until I tried it on!  The sleeves are too low, and it's too big!

Btw, have you looked at Pattern Review to see what other sewers thought of it?

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Helen M

Re: Square shoulder adjustment on a pattern with a yoke
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2019, 22:31:53 PM »
Thanks for that Jessie, I think I'll do a toile of the yoke at least.

I had checked out the pattern on PR and it seems to be liked.
Stash Busting 2021
Goal: 35 metres
So far: 4 metres