New jacket - S2446

[dolcevita]

I was planning to rush this through and see if I could get it done for Sunday, but I may not manage it.

Anyhow, I've been lusting after an outfit I saw on Pinterest ages ago and as I've got a bit more sewing time at the moment, I'm getting on with a version of it.  The inspiration jacket is by Balmain but the bit that I want to copy is the wing effect on the lapels.  Not something that you see much of and makes it less of an ordinary blazer.

Photo of the inspiration outfit attached.

S2446 is a standard princess line blazer and very suitable for speed tailoring.  My biggest concern is the wing lapels and my fabric choice.  I'm using a lightweight wool crepe which I've already fused, but it may need a lot of support in those lapels to achieve the crisp look.  A twill would be a better choice, but wool crepe is what I have in the stash so that's what I'm using.

I'll post a few more photos of the jacket alteration and how it's going.  May be slow this evening - it's boiling hot in my loft!

[Sewsuzie]

Ooooh, I love a good jacket make. I'll get my fix watching your progress, as I don't have any jacket plans in the near future.
Lovely sharp style 

Suzie 

[dolcevita]

Here's a pic of one of the centre fronts.  I overlaid the original shape of the traced piece, before I altered to the new collar shape.  The fusible is one of those lovely super lightweight ones from English Couture and I've just put the tailor tacks on for darts, centre front, etc.  Even though this will be speed tailored, I always thread trace centre fronts and other important lines as I always seem to rub them off.  Also, I always cut my fusible smaller than the actual piece as it really annoys me when it overlaps the fabric and sticks to my ironing board.

I will see how the piece lies with a bit of light canvas in the lapel to keep it crisp.

[dolcevita]

I've tacked the body to fit. 

Unfortunately, the lapels aren't as pointy as I'd like them.  I should have made a toile of them as I forgot that the angle at which the lapels fold back would point them downwards by quite a lot and so this reduces the pointed effect.  However, I can live with it and I'll tweak the pattern for the next one.

The fit isn't bad; there are plenty of 1" seam allowances on the body and I've taken full advantage of these as I've put on a good few pounds over the last 12 months, but they also allow me to cater for grading out for my hips. 

Time to have a look at some canvas for those lapels and collar.

[Sewsuzie]

You're cracking on DV! Lapels look fine from here, but it's annoying when you know what you should have done, but didn't  . Hope the heat doesn't stop you from sewing today.

Suzie 

[b15erk]

Your jackets are always exquisite DV!  Such attention to detail.

I look forward to seeing this one finished, it's a lovely colour.

Jessie

[dolcevita]

Very little sewing today - work and elderly in-laws, but back in the loft now and doing a bit of very slow sewing.

I have a weakness for lined, refined pocket flaps and getting on with these tonight.  I found some very nice lightweight but stiff canvas in my tailoring stash for the lapels and collar, and I've used it on the pocket flaps as well.

The flaps are completely hand-sewn for pedantic accuracy.  I trace out the pocket flap pattern and then cut away the seam allowances.  I trace around this for the canvas pieces. I pin the outer fabric flaps to the canvas then tack the edges over to the inside; I also gather the corners to pull them in evenly without getting any pointy corners.  Once they are tacked, I give them a quick steam press to set the edges. I then stitch the edges of the fabric to the canvas, catching just a couple of threads of the canvas.  Next up is the lining - press under the seam allowances then hand stitch to the inside of the pocket flap, covering the raw edge of the outer fabric.

I need to get the long seams of the fronts sewn up so that I can get the pockets done and add a breast pocket, too.

[dolcevita]

Here's the false pocket that I'm putting on the fronts - other side and breast pocket to go. I'm not making a pocket bag as I have a bad habit of stuffing my pockets full of rubbish and old tissues and my jackets look a lot better if I can't do this.  Other than the lack of the bag, it's constructed in the same way as a welt pocket, but with the addition of the flap.

[b15erk]

It's  looking amazing! That pocket is lovely.

Jessie

[Zigzag]

Beautiful sewing with gorgeous fabric.  Awesome