The Sewing Place

Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?

talamasca

Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« on: April 25, 2017, 15:07:06 PM »
Hi, so I came across this pattern and fell in love with the style...now to make it, bearing in mind I've never followed a pattern before and only made a couple of circle skirts with zips from my own drawn pattern and that's the extent of my dressmaking abilities LOL

Just looking at picking the fabric...thought I'd get something cheap first in case I make a complete hash of it, but I don't know about diff fabrics types either....there's so many and some seem the same, i.e. can I use a sweatshirt or cotton jersey instead of the lightweight wool jersey/double knit the pattern suggests.  What about using a poly cotton or 100% cotton instead of lightweight linen?

Also, the pattern says self-lined bodice, which I think means (if Google was correct!) that I cut out 2 front pieces and 2 back pieces and sew them wrong sides together?  But if that is the case, why do I also need to buy sew in interfacing?  Though that question may be premature as the pattern hasn't arrived yet and the interfacing could be for something other than the bodice.

Hope some wise sewers can help allay my trepidation :D
~ Steph ~

UttaRetch

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2017, 15:41:41 PM »
I love this pattern and someday will actually make it.  Our own DementedFairy has made this and here is her review.  Doubtless she will pop by to give you re-assurance.  You can also read some of the other reviews and see their fabric choices. 
What goes around comes around.

Vegegrow

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2017, 15:42:55 PM »
I think Demented Fairy has made this a couple of times...I expect she'll pop along and give you some tips
"The only place where housework comes before needlework is in the dictionary." ~Mary Kurtz

Tamnymore

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2017, 16:46:57 PM »
I've made many versions of this. I love it. It  is very dramatic. The interfacing on the bodice is there to stabilise the stretch jersey or stretch knit that you will be using for the bodice.especially in the neck and armhole areas. IMHO an iron on intefacing is better thsn sew in intefacing but it depends on whether you can get a  lightweigt stretchy iron on interfacing.

A cotton jersey would be ok I think but sweatshirt fabric for the bodice would be too thick as you would end up with a double layer of sweatshirt fabric as well as the interfacing.

I think that this dress is ok for relative beginners as long as you follow the instructions. It is a long dress. I'm 5'7" and it is quite long on me. I made some adjustments to it. First, I made the neckline narrower and less deep. That's just a personal preference. Demented Fairy seems to have kept the original neckline and it looks great on her. Second, I always omit the zip as I think you can just pull a stretch jersey over the head. It's never been a problem for me. See what DF says about the zip on her versions.

You will notice that the bodice has no darts. If you are the kind of person who requires to make a full bust adjustment (FBA) you may well find that the dress is too sticky outy (that's a technical) term from the body. DF has done something clever with elastic under the bust to draw the dress in again. Now I do not have to make an FBA on clothes I make (ahem) so the dress sits ok on me without being sticky outy!!

Hope that helps.  :D
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

BrendaP

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2017, 16:54:25 PM »
https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v1312#.WP9t6Y4ikg4

Pattern info states:
FABRICS: Lightweight Denim, Lightweight Gabardine, Lightweight Linen. Contrast B: Lightweight Wool Jersey, Lightweight Double Knit.

Denim, gabardine and the linen are woven fabrics, so you shouldn't use a jersey (knitted) for the main part.  Version A is woven fabric throughout, version B is woven fabric with a lightweight jersey bodice - that means tee-shirt weight rather than fleece.

Self lined bodice does mean lining and fashion fabric are the same.  The interfacing will probably be around the neck and armholes, sandwiched between the two layers, and will be to add stability to the fabric.
Brenda.  My machines are: Caroline a Singer 201K-3 born 1940, Thirza a Featherweight 221K born 1949, Azilia a Singer 201K born 1957 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/

Tamnymore

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2017, 17:36:12 PM »
If you use a woven for the bodice you probably will need a zip and you would need to be confident about the bodice fit as it would not then have the 'give' that a stretchy fabric has.

The best combination is stretchy on the bodice and woven on the skirt.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Francesca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2017, 19:08:01 PM »
Lovely pattern, but why does the model look like she's doing the haka?

DementedFairy

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2017, 19:12:43 PM »
What they all said.

Fran- you HAVE to do the haka wearing this, including all the face pulling and chest slapping, it's essential.  Mainly though, the outrageously huge square skirt makes you want to stick your knees out sideways and pretend to be a table.

That's my story anyway.

I definitely would not recommend making the bodice in a woven, unless utterly boobless, it simply wouldn't work.  In jersey, you don't need a zip either.

If you don't want to self line, you could use a thinner fabric to line [as long as it is as stretchy], or fiddle about making facings.  Thinking about it, you DO need the two layers, because that skirt is HEAVY, and a single jersey layer would probably go all doo-lally.

Make it make it make it it's  a fab dress especially if you add pockets
C'est moi!

UttaRetch

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2017, 19:15:56 PM »
Lovely pattern, but why does the model look like she's doing the haka?

or this one



reaching for an imaginery loo seat?  0_0  Vogue has just about the most ridiculous sleeve photographs.
What goes around comes around.

Tamnymore

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2017, 19:36:05 PM »
Haha
 Yes they were all doing funny poses in that release of Vogue patterns. Some of the patternreview reviews adopt the same pose. I daren't in case the wind changes direction and I can't get back to normal...
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

sewmuchmore

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2017, 09:13:35 AM »
Don't forget to use a stretch interfacing if you are going to use a stretch fabric.
 http://www.tailormouse.co.uk/store/Bi-stretch-fusible-interfacing-K__p-341.aspx
It's not easy being this perfekt

Janet

Francesca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2017, 09:40:08 AM »
or this one

reaching for an imaginery loo seat?  0_0  Vogue has just about the most ridiculous sleeve photographs.

"Someone's robbed me chair!"

DementedFairy

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2017, 10:48:10 AM »
Don't forget to use a stretch interfacing if you are going to use a stretch fabric.
 http://www.tailormouse.co.uk/store/Bi-stretch-fusible-interfacing-K__p-341.aspx

I just used very lightweight stuff, to no bad effect- silk organza on the one I think.  You don't actually want or need the neckline to stretch, you want full stability.
C'est moi!

talamasca

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2017, 11:47:17 AM »
Hi, thank you everyone for the replies.  I'm going to the fabric store on Sat and as I'm not keen on mixing fabrics, I'll go with version A in a lightweight woven denim or linen and add the zip and iron on interfacing.   I'm nearly boobless 0_0 so hopefully it should hang OK on me.

I do a like pocket in a skirt, but as the pattern doesn't have them it's prob a step to far for me, though I'm hoping I'll make more after this and I could have a go at pockets then.

Just been watching some very informative sewing tuts on YouTube so feeling a bit more confident now, though I do have a question about fabric choices.  Why wouldn't I be able to use a heavier weight fabric for this pattern...if the top and bottom are made in the same then surely the top part wouldn't be affected by the weight of the bottom too much....would it?
~ Steph ~

Tamnymore

Re: Vogue 1312 for a Beginner?
« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2017, 12:32:27 PM »
Actually, it isn't very difficult to add in seam pockets but you may want to leave that for now as you say.

No reason why you can't use heavier fabric but there is a LOT of fabric in the skirt and the whole thing could end up feeling very weighty so  possibly best to keep the fabric reasonably light weight.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde