Pants pattern back rise much too short

[Vezelay]

@Helen M no I don't use Instagram, sorry. I hadn't actually spotted that "below waist" on the pattern envelope, though I guessed as much and still don't understand why the back rise is proportionally so very short. Any way I look at it 3 1/2" seems a huge amount to add. And I'm not quite sure how much rise length I'd gain from taking a smaller seam allowance as you describe.

Have I put the Vogue on top of the SA? Yes, though the difference in s/a and waistbands (ie SA add 1 1/4", Vogue subtract 1 1/2") is too much for me to compute visually.

What isn't right with the Elle? Waistband feels a little lumpy to me and there is a little loose fabric just below the waistband at the back. That's better in my Elle/Jalie Eleanore mash up where I inserted a yoke - that was @toileandtrouble's proposed solution for this.

I may yet just use my Elle crotch with Vogue legs - that was @Ploshkin's tip. I'll have to revisit all this tomorrow when I'm fresh and make a decision of some sort. Thanks all for your input so far anyway.

[Helen M]

When you say loose fabric at the back do you need to trim a bit of the pant top? I've had to do that going out to the side seam. I prefer the Barb/Linda waistband which is shaped rather than just being a straight affair. I only use 1" elastic and reduce the waistband depth accordingly, would that help?

Also have you thought about not having a waistband? Just attach elastic with an overlocker, turn to wrong side and catch at seams? I've done that successfully but have shaped the elastic when joining so it sits on your natural shape. I copied it from a M&S ponte skirt which had no waistband. I think I still have a picture of the sample I made so I wouldn't forget how I did it.

[Vezelay]

@Helen M thanks, I'll check out the Barb waistband. I think Barb came free with the Elle so it'll be in my online sewing stash. The Vogue has no separate waistband, just the top fabric which folds over to enclose elastic, but I suppose that's still a waistband of sorts. I wouldn't want elastic next to my skin - too prone to skin allergies - so I'd need a double layer of fabric one way or another.

At this point I should just look again at the various options you've all suggested, make a decision and get on with it! Back soon with the finished product (probably).

[Esme866]

@Vezelay and others with the "flat bum" issue:

I kept trying all of the "alterations" recommended with no success and decided to try one more method before resorting to drafting it all myself.

In my youth, my bum was a wee bit too large, tiny waist, and "the girls" were generous in size. Shoulder pads of the day balanced my narrow shoulders, so I worked the Marilyn look with what I've been informed was "success".

Always expected to grow a massive huge bum if I gained weight with old age - not so! I say "Hello" to my Gramma and laugh anytime I see my naked body in a mirror- Massive "girls", NO waist, and a very flat bum-, 6" smaller than my chest.

However, after closely studying numerous selfies of my back side, I realized, my bum isn't smaller - all of the excess volume now hangs down underneath where it used to be - just like "the girls" these days. But propping up with underwires there would be painful!

So I took a pants pattern and scooped out the bottom of the back rise so that it looks more like a "U" instead of "J" . Basically, my bum is lower than my crotch point.  I also added some length at the top. In order to taper the legs (my fabric was woven, not knit) I had to lean the back of the "J" outward- like a jeans' pattern. Not certain that would be necessary with a 2-way stretch knit.

So if the "flat bum" is age related, gravity has parked the excess "junk in the trunk" underneath the trunk - and ya gotta make room!

Hope this helps, and sorry I still can't do pics.

[Sewingsue]

 
Sorry @Esme866 but I loved your description

[Vezelay]

Quick update for those who responded here, pants/leggings are finished and I'm wearing them. I looked at the various options and chickened out of adjusting the Vogue. So I made another pair of Style Arc Elles (my 5th) with the legs narrowed a little to match the Vogue width. I'm very happy with them - comfortable and good fit - and will post a pic in my Member's diary.

Not sure why I didn't take @Helen M's advice and chop some off the back top because I still have extra fabric pooling under the centre back waistband which could probably come down nearly an inch, although the front is just right. It doesn't show, but still...Next time definitely.