The Sewing Place

Measure the tissue!

jen

Measure the tissue!
« on: May 28, 2017, 08:26:16 AM »
I've just made a slightly complicated skirt from a self drafted pattern and decided to pick up one of the bargain patterns I got recently and run up something simple and rapid for the hot weather. I bought size 8 to 12 in Butterick 4136 and was about to hack out the 12, for 36" hip. I'm doing the version which fits fairly close to the hip line in the illustration so I checked the finished measurements - 41.5 inches or 105 cms. Is that not a heck of a lot of ease in a flared skirt? Tape measure out, check the pattern. I made an 8, which fits 'right' for the envelope picture. It's been said before - I wish they'd put finished garment measurements up on the website for each pattern. I was lucky, the pattern covers the right size range, but if you don't hit it right you could end up having to buy a second pattern.

DementedFairy

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2017, 10:34:18 AM »
Most of the big companies still print finished measurements on the pattern pieces.  They are usually in just one place for bust, waist and hip, next to a circle with a cross in it.  They regularly allow 5" of ease, probably so that vanity sizing can prevail!
C'est moi!

Ellabella

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2017, 10:37:19 AM »
I always wondered what that circle with a cross was for.

Obviously not enough to look on the pattern information to find out!

dolcevita

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2017, 10:53:23 AM »
I never take a pattern on trust and always measure the main circumferences before cutting anything, including the tissue.  When i trace a pattern from the likes of Burda or Ottobre, I check the measurements before tracing, too, so that if I need to do any straightforward grading I can do it as I trace.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2017, 11:23:01 AM »
It's a good idea to buy patterns with photos of the garment rather than an illustration.  Personally I don't think 5" ease is an enormous amount.  But I know many people like their clothes fairly close fitting.
Was there a "fitting " description on the envelope?  This chart shows how much ease patterns will have depending on how they were drafted.
https://butterick.mccall.com/size-fit-charts/ease-chart

Kad

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2017, 12:23:48 PM »
I recently bought 2 patterns for tops: the McCall's (7094) described as ' very loose fitting' has  12" of ease at the bustline, the Butterick (6024) described as merely ' loose fitting' has 20" of ease at the bustline.  :S
Wish they'd keep their descriptions consistent! And to make matters worse I was aiming to use the smallest size of the Butterick pattern, which'll turn out enormous  :(
Not so much patchwork as personal dressmaker to DD

DementedFairy

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2017, 12:36:56 PM »
It's a good idea to buy patterns with photos of the garment rather than an illustration.

I don't see how that helps- they peg the models into the clothes [which rarely fit well regardless] just as in any other fashion shot.  I've often made things up and had them bear little resemblance to drawing OR photo.  Personally, I love the drawn illustrations, the photos are too distracting and so many of the poses bug me! [Or I get distracted by shoeses...mmmm shoeses]
C'est moi!

Ohsewsimple

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2017, 12:43:11 PM »
True true DF.  I just feel it gives a more realistic idea of the garment. 

Ohsewsimple

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2017, 12:46:35 PM »
I recently bought 2 patterns for tops: the McCall's (7094) described as ' very loose fitting' has  12" of ease at the bustline, the Butterick (6024) described as merely ' loose fitting' has 20" of ease at the bustline.  :S
Wish they'd keep their descriptions consistent! And to make matters worse I was aiming to use the smallest size of the Butterick pattern, which'll turn out enormous  :(

Wow, that is a lot of ease!   Always pays to check.  Of course some of the patterns are by people like Connie Crawford etc.  And their sizing is completely different just to make life even more interesting.  :P

Didi

Re: Measure the tissue!
« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2017, 15:39:04 PM »
I always measure the tissue even if it says the finished size on the pattern just because I am neurotic !!!
I prefer line drawings as it gives me a better idea of the shape etc. Some patterns do seem to have ridiculous amounts of ease in them - enough to get another person in nearly !!!