The Sewing Place

Will you take me by the hand?

Flobear

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #15 on: June 21, 2023, 11:53:14 AM »
Q2 ... Im thinking prewashing is essential in this field (having learned from my PJ botts)


Nooooo! After all that effort  :facepalm:  I am so sorry that I didn't suggest pre-washing  :(
Proud new owner of Elvistoo !!

Missie

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #16 on: June 21, 2023, 12:06:22 PM »
Ok, I'm going to go old school.  You don't need any fangle-dangled machinery or tapes or oojamaflips.  We've been sewing since before these things were invented (although not denying that they can make life easier).

1)  Wash and dry your fabrics how you will when they are made up into garments (ie, same temperature and if you are likely to tumble dry them, do that as well).  If any are dry clean, wash them anyway.  I never take anything to the dry cleaners, it all goes in the machine, on a cool gentle wash if needs be.

2)  Pin the pattern well and in the seam allowance only,  (so pin marks don't show). Do at right angles to the seam allowance in short gaps 1-2".  Use a single layer of fabric if needs be (but make sure you flip the pattern for the other leg else you'll end up with 2 legs the same!  Although to be honest, I don't consider viscose to be slippy!!!

3)  Pin the fabrics together as above (which also makes it easy to remove the pins when you are sewing the seams) and you can tack them together for extra security if you so wish.  I think an ordinary foot will be fine.  I rarely use a walking foot and I have sewn plenty of garments made of silk satin.

4) Do a double row of stitches for the crotch, one on the seam allowance line and another a couple of mm next to it in the seam allowance (for security, ie, should the stitch break).

4)  You don't need an overlocker. Yes viscose does fray, and the seams will need finishing to prevent this, but you can used a zig-zag stitch or if you have a fancy-shmancy machine, you can use the overcast stitch (but it is heavy on thread usage).  Alternatively, you could make the seam allowance 2cm (usual is 1.5cm), pink the edges, if you wish,then fold them under and stitch.

5) And most importantly, don't overthink it.  Sewing is sewing whether it is clothing or a quilt!!!


HenriettaMaria

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #17 on: June 21, 2023, 13:41:12 PM »
What Missie said about the crotch stitching but I'd add to that the following: if your machine has a stretch stitch (looks a little like a Harry Potter/Aladdin Sane lightning bolt rather than a full zig zag), it's fantastic for crotch seams as it puts a little 'give' in the seam.

Marniesews

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #18 on: June 21, 2023, 16:01:58 PM »
I know you've asked about sewing particularly but they can be a devil to cut too. I found the micro-serrated scissors are totally fabulous for the dancewear and anything a bit tricky because they grip the fabric as you go so it doesn't slip off line. I've ended up using them for everything (even denim) ever since!

If you want to try them you can get a really good budget pair by Kai from lots of places now Prym are selling them In their Xact range brand. The scissors are genuine Kai made and include the Kai brand and series number on the blades. I got a pair intending to ask for the Professional range version for Christmas well over 5 years ago, am still using the original pair and quietly fuming I can't justify asking for the Pro ones yet!

They're currently cheapest on Amazon by a few quid, otherwise here in Jaycotts and still almost half the price I've seen elsewhere.
Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.

Iminei

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #19 on: June 21, 2023, 17:52:54 PM »
@Marniesews  ... I searched Amazon (because of the prime free shipping option) but it came up with a heavy leaning towards Fiskars scissors and lots of other bizarre things, from A Westie Cross stitch kit, a black fascinator (or is it a dead spider?) to a Van Gogh address book ...

I mean HOW do they get those when I specifically searched for Kai Xact general purpose dressmaking scissors 21cm ?????  :rant:

Thanks for the tip tho' xxx

@Puzzler  will the scissors I have do?? at all ??

@Flobear  Dont worry they've only lost a lil length and I dont wear them out to Tescos ... theyre still perfectly wearable  :love:
« Last Edit: June 21, 2023, 17:54:28 PM by Iminei »
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Marniesews

Hopefully back more regularly! Ballroom sewing may be permanently paused but bag making is the current focus.

Iminei

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #21 on: June 21, 2023, 18:01:30 PM »
Thank you Darling xxx
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

Puzzler

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #22 on: June 21, 2023, 18:51:05 PM »
I can’t remember the shears you have, sorry, @Iminei

I hadn’t realised this Prym scissor range was made by Kai. They certainly get rave reviews. I have a drawerful of cutting tools but I can’t justify anymore.

Iminei

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #23 on: June 23, 2023, 19:31:37 PM »
Scissors arrived sometime today  ;)  What did we all do without Amazon prime ???
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Iminei

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #24 on: July 02, 2023, 10:40:44 AM »
Ok ... two lengths of fabric pre washed and now on the line to dry.

Fabric 1, a quilting cotton to be made into a skirt  :rolleyes:

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Fabric 2, a length from Abakhan, some body in it and called Dress Print on the receipt but I dont really know what it is.

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I zigzaged along both's raw edges to form tubes but still they frayed after a normal 40 degree wash, the Abakhan one more than the QC (or at least the QC frayed more evenly)

I noticed on the A one that the Zigzags skipped a stitch every now and then yet the QC ZZ was perfect ... Is this due to the needle??

I have my Janome Blue tip and Red tip needles, Organ embroidery and Schmetz 70/10 and 80/12 ... Which do I need for the A fabric?

I need your help now please peeps
« Last Edit: July 02, 2023, 12:16:20 PM by Iminei »
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SewRuthieSews

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #25 on: July 02, 2023, 10:51:51 AM »
Try zigzagging the tricky fabric now its been washed, it may just have been sizing (starch) in the fabric.

Tamnymore

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #26 on: July 02, 2023, 11:34:03 AM »
I think your Abakhan fabric may be polyester @Iminei . Are you happy to do a burn test on a wee snippet?
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Iminei

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #27 on: July 02, 2023, 12:04:12 PM »
Question: what needle do I need to sew a nice lightweight cotton viscose ??

This is unrelated to the items below ... A gorgeous dress (handmade) that Ive had my eye on for over a year which I just want to top stitch the facings down.

I also want to add a teensy tiny popper where it ulls slightly over the Mammoth Boob area and maybe an extra button.

Pics will follow when finished.

Pics of the fabrics mentioned now in previous thread
« Last Edit: July 02, 2023, 12:11:42 PM by Iminei »
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Ouryve

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #28 on: July 02, 2023, 12:48:50 PM »
The cotton viscose - if lighter than quilting cotton, a 70, otherwise 80. Universal if a loose weave, sharp or microtex if a tighter weave. (that satiny looking fabric will almost definitely benefit from a sharper needle.)


Often it's best to have a few different needles to hand and try out on a scrap of the fabric. Do the Stitches look good with no skipping? Are the holes nice and clean or are there signs of the fabric being distorted or the fibres being snagged?
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

Iminei

Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« Reply #29 on: July 02, 2023, 13:27:06 PM »
Ive snipped a bit of the A fabric and stitched out some very nice stitches with the needle currently in situ on The Splurgess

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Do you think its safe to use.

Regarding the Cotton viscose dress, Its very light and floaty, so a 70/10 needle ?

The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again