I wrote a paper about this in college. Zero waste and sustainable fashion have been the big buzz words in college settings for a while now.
Zero waste is not technically about using ALL the fabric, just minimizing it as much as possible. Upcycling, recycling and sustainable fabric methods. It is a misnomer in a way, and a buzz word to get everyone excited. However, also note that this movement does not usually include the biggest problem countries in the industry.
Zero waste patterns are a neat trick. However, my paper was about the fact that WWII and below did in fact do absolute zero waste...but only on the domestic industry and not the industrial one. AKA the time before everyone had to sew some of their clothing.
Natural fabrics, dyes and small production is the key to sustainability. Every scrap can be utilized in some way. I happen to make a fake down quit with mine, and my shop is zero waste because every scrap, thread and snip goes into something.
Jobber and overproduction of fabrics is another issue however, without them, most of us would not be able to afford to buy any textiles and many small businesses would not be able to operate because that is the market. Quality is also an important issue to look at because we don't do fast fashion, but our fabrics are meant for it.