The Sewing Place

question about drag lines

RachelB

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #15 on: February 17, 2024, 16:44:41 PM »
I'm not massively experienced in fitting but I wouldn't try to fix anything else without fixing the dart position, first as, like the sleeves, they will affect the tension over a wide area. With a closely fitted dress, there is always going to be a trade off between picture perfect fit and ability to move in the thing - this looks like a dress you would wear to a fancy dinner rather than rummaging for the freshest loaf of bread at the back of a high shelf in Sainsbury's so the goal would be can you eat and tidy your hair and make up comfortably with it on.
Yes, the Falconetti Dress that I am knocking off is super fitted and looks like one that you would only wear if you are going to be sitting.  The sleeves on the Falconetti are super slim, even slimmer than mine.  When I try to raise my arm too much, the underarm feels super tight.   

RachelB

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #16 on: February 17, 2024, 16:59:56 PM »
@Ouryve that made me laugh.  :laughing:  I had a friend at college who had ‘restaurant clothes' for eating out. 

@RachelB wonderful, we have pictures.  :thumb:  First thing, like @Ouryve said, your darts are wrong.  Darts should point to the fullest part of the bust.  They should never be sewn to that point……..unless you’re aiming for a Madonna look.  :rolleyes:  It’s worth mentioning that all the examples on the Style Arc site are also in the wrong place!  The darts are too high.  They can be moved down or you can literally sew them so they are further away from the bust. 

I always like to get a bodice fitting properly before adding sleeves.  This was how I was taught and my tutor was very hot on that.  Adding the sleeves will change things slightly but if the bodice isn’t right to start with you’re already on to a loser. 

If the dart is folded I would undo it, press the fabric flat and then begin again.  You need to know where your bust point is, the fullest part.  There are several ways to find this.  You may have it marked on the pattern.  But that does not mean that is where it should be for you.  Have a look at this.  It shows how to find your bust point and check it against the pattern. 

Don’t worry about the sleeve for the moment.  One alteration at a time.

Thank you so much.  Unfortunately the dart is sewn like a seam, so it is cut.  However, I am going to cut out the bodices again, so I will redo it.  I am not seeing the link where you mention finding the fullest part of the bust.  I am just getting so frustrated again.  A couple of years ago, I tried making a knock off of the Falconetti dress and went down into a fitting rabbit hole.  At that time the Queenie dress pattern did not exist, so I was using a McCalls pattern that had a similar bodice. I finally burned out and quit.  When the Queenie dress came out,  I had hoped that this would go a little easier since the Queenie dress pattern is a literal knock off of the Falconetti, but I am having the same issues.  :boohoo: I feel better, though, seeing that I am not the only one since the models are having the same fitting issues. Also, the model for the actual Falconetti has fit issues.  In the link to the Falconetti dress above, I think the bust darts are too high.  Also, there are commas shaped drag lines on the back bodice.  I keep telling myself that maybe I have become too much of a perfectionist, but now that I have seen the fit issues, I can't unsee them.   

Morgan

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #17 on: February 17, 2024, 17:11:53 PM »
@RachelB
As you are fitting solo, I wondered if it would help to do as much as you can on the pattern before the first fitting toile/muslin.
Alexandra Morgan has a useful collection of fitting and pattern making videos on her You Tube Channel which is where I get the links in ths post. 

https://youtu.be/dv8bNng19-A?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/EMsnw1S2g14?feature=shared

I believe that clearly marking the balance (reference ) lines on the toile is essential to be able to diagnose fitting issues and establish a a good fit. 
https://youtu.be/-VpZ6YIrycg?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/urfLcvNLIDo?feature=shared

Here on a pants pattern  she shows how to prepare the balance reference lines and explains some of the adjustments to prepare the  pattern before making a toile/muslin.
https://youtu.be/qZ0n_73H4h8?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/uQnPToWwb8c?feature=shared

For fitting a bodice, the shoulder is one is the first fitting issues to assess and deal with.  It's always a good idea at some stage to work out what your own shoulder slope is.
Also,it's helpful to know how to work out what the shoulder slope of a pattern is and then how to alter the pattern to revise the slope.
This video is about working out the actual shoulder slope of a sewing pattern.
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared
This video is about how to find the degree of slope of the shoulder slope line on the pattern.  Toward the end of the video, she touches on working with a front pattern angle and a back pattern angle which can be useful when working with a pattern that has been adjusted for a forward shoulder or slanted for style shoulder lines. 
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared

Once you know what your shoulder slope is, including any forward shoulder adjustment, it's worth making a template to save yourself time and trouble with any future patterns. 

And in case a forward shoulder adjustment is of interest.  She shows 2 methods in the linked  The first is the common visual line shift and the second is a combination adjustment that includes an armhole shape fitting adjustment at the across back and across chest levels.
https://youtu.be/jSwONVfA0Ow?feature=shared






« Last Edit: February 17, 2024, 17:23:14 PM by Morgan »

Ouryve

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #18 on: February 17, 2024, 18:25:15 PM »
Before you take it apart, I recommend getting a pen and drawing on your bust apex so you can use the position to plan your adjustment. I tend to wear fairly loosely fitting tops but always need to move darts, even when I don't need to increase them, so all my toiles end up with green nipples  :x :x
Janome M50QDC - "Jane" - Small, cute and hard working. Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 - "Pfanny" - Pfickle. Bernina L450 - "Bernie" - Very hungry. Bernina 830 Record - "Becky"

Ohsewsimple

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #19 on: February 17, 2024, 18:27:16 PM »
it.  I am not seeing the link where you mention finding the fullest part of the bust. 

Of course you’re not @RachelB because this idiot forgot to put the link in.  :laughing: :headbang:
Sincere apologies. 
https://www.sbccpatterns.com/blogs/news/how-to-a-pre-cutting-check-to-make-sure-your-bust-dart-is-correctly-placed#:~:text=From%20the%20high%20point%20of,highest%20point%20of%20the%20shoulder.

I’d also add that the links @Morgan has  put up will be very good.  This lady always explains things very well. 

RachelB

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #20 on: February 17, 2024, 19:08:25 PM »
@RachelB
As you are fitting solo, I wondered if it would help to do as much as you can on the pattern before the first fitting toile/muslin.
Alexandra Morgan has a useful collection of fitting and pattern making videos on her You Tube Channel which is where I get the links in ths post. 

https://youtu.be/dv8bNng19-A?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/EMsnw1S2g14?feature=shared

I believe that clearly marking the balance (reference ) lines on the toile is essential to be able to diagnose fitting issues and establish a a good fit. 
https://youtu.be/-VpZ6YIrycg?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/urfLcvNLIDo?feature=shared

Here on a pants pattern  she shows how to prepare the balance reference lines and explains some of the adjustments to prepare the  pattern before making a toile/muslin.
https://youtu.be/qZ0n_73H4h8?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/uQnPToWwb8c?feature=shared

For fitting a bodice, the shoulder is one is the first fitting issues to assess and deal with.  It's always a good idea at some stage to work out what your own shoulder slope is.
Also,it's helpful to know how to work out what the shoulder slope of a pattern is and then how to alter the pattern to revise the slope.
This video is about working out the actual shoulder slope of a sewing pattern.
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared
This video is about how to find the degree of slope of the shoulder slope line on the pattern.  Toward the end of the video, she touches on working with a front pattern angle and a back pattern angle which can be useful when working with a pattern that has been adjusted for a forward shoulder or slanted for style shoulder lines. 
https://youtu.be/yLId3ivN92w?feature=shared

Once you know what your shoulder slope is, including any forward shoulder adjustment, it's worth making a template to save yourself time and trouble with any future patterns. 

And in case a forward shoulder adjustment is of interest.  She shows 2 methods in the linked  The first is the common visual line shift and the second is a combination adjustment that includes an armhole shape fitting adjustment at the across back and across chest levels.
https://youtu.be/jSwONVfA0Ow?feature=shared
Thank you so much for these links and taking the time to post them all for me. .  I am going to watch them. 

Catllar

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #21 on: February 18, 2024, 19:36:32 PM »

The picture on their website shows the same drag lines on the back in their sample photos!
« Last Edit: February 18, 2024, 19:38:45 PM by Catllar »
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

RachelB

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #22 on: February 19, 2024, 02:32:03 AM »
Before you take it apart, I recommend getting a pen and drawing on your bust apex so you can use the position to plan your adjustment. I tend to wear fairly loosely fitting tops but always need to move darts, even when I don't need to increase them, so all my toiles end up with green nipples  :x :x

Thank you for that suggestion.  I did that and have redrawn my dart.  Now I just have to cut out the bodice pieces again.

RachelB

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #23 on: February 19, 2024, 02:33:41 AM »
The picture on their website shows the same drag lines on the back in their sample photos!
I saw that.  I wonder why they don't get the fitting correct before they photograph it.   I have seen several celebrities in the Falconetti Dress that was ill-fitted. 

RachelB

Re: question about drag lines
« Reply #24 on: February 19, 2024, 02:34:42 AM »
Of course you’re not @RachelB because this idiot forgot to put the link in.  :laughing: :headbang:
Sincere apologies. 
https://www.sbccpatterns.com/blogs/news/how-to-a-pre-cutting-check-to-make-sure-your-bust-dart-is-correctly-placed#:~:text=From%20the%20high%20point%20of,highest%20point%20of%20the%20shoulder.

I’d also add that the links @Morgan has  put up will be very good.  This lady always explains things very well.
Thank you for the link.