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Top stitching seams on stretch tutu

emmad

Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« on: November 27, 2018, 11:58:54 AM »
Hi. I am thinking about making a stretch tutu for my daughter and have been looking at the Dani Legge patterns. I just wondered what stitch you use for the top stitching on the bodice seams. From photos I have looked at of stretch tutus that have this top stitching, the stitches look like a straight stitch but I don't think they can be as they wouldn't stretch. My sewing machine does have a specific stretch stitch, looks a bit like a lightening bolt, but after doing some experimenting this doesn't look nice as a top stitch.

Any advice would be gratefully received!

Ploshkin

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2018, 13:07:03 PM »
I would imagine that the top stitching is done on a coverstitch machine so it will have criss cross stitches on the back made by loopers.  That means that the fabric can still stretch without the thread breaking.
Life's too short for ironing.

Thecostumelady

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2018, 07:02:19 AM »
I just use a longish straight stitch (no.4 on my Janome). I think you will find that it will stretch enough, after all hopefully the bodice will not need to be stretched to 'snapping point'!  If I'm going to top stitch I try to remember to cut out leaving a little extra seam allowance on the top-stitched seams.  Makes life a little easier  :).  Ann x

emmad

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2018, 08:31:36 AM »
Thank you Ann, I will give that a go when I find time to get started. Probably won't be until the new year now!

eclectic

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2018, 10:43:45 AM »
Hi @emmad, I do use the lightning bolt for a top stitch (on an overlocked seam that is) from a distance it actually looks like a straight stitch, I find it also helps keep the seems down and therefore doesn't rub on the dancers skin. 
In the slaveshop: Bernina (Aurora 430), Babylock Enlighten, Babylock BLCS2 .. back-ups: pfaff SM. Bernina SM/CL

Lollipop

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2018, 15:04:57 PM »
I use a tiny zig zag, probably 0.5 or 1 and length about 4 on my Pfaff. When it's worn the zigzag becomes like a straight stitch but there is a bit of give.
Was Sewnanny

emmad

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2018, 22:09:47 PM »
Thank you @Lollipop. I will give all the different options a try after Christmas when I have a bit more time - currently very busy with Christmas prep, day job and making some costumes for a contemporary ballet company. I have found a stitch on my machine (Janome) called triple straight stitch which the manual says can be used on stretch fabrics but when I tried it on some scrap Lycra it does reduce the stretch quit significantly. Think I might make up a couple of leotard bases from cheap fabric, try different stitches and then get my daughter to try them out.

Thank you to everyone that has made suggestions

Marniesews

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2018, 01:31:37 AM »
Zigzag will stretch well but may not give the look you want.

You can use ordinary straight stitch if you put just a little resistance on it as it goes under the foot, don't stretch it just put a finger down so the machine has to pull it through with just a tiny bit more effort. Beverly Johnson, the famed bra and swimsuit specialist uses that for all the swim wear she makes in her Craftsy classes.
Stash Busting 2020
Goal: 50m
So far: 6m fabric; approx 40m crin (horsehair braid)

Seam Stress(ed)

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2020, 13:44:18 PM »
I use a coverstitch to top stitch the seams.  There are 2 stretch stitches that sewing machines can have, the lightning bolt stitch (diagram looks like it sounds) and/or the triple stretch stitch (3 broken parallel vertical lines).  If the lightning bolt stitch does not give the look you require (the look varies on machines), try the triple stretch stitch.  This is the one Dani and Barbara use.  It is a nightmare to unpick though.  Coverstitch gives the best look.

Georgie

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2020, 21:46:20 PM »
I made my daughter the Dani Legge stretch tutu and used the lightening bolt stretch stitch
Aka Trickybottom

BrendaP

Re: Top stitching seams on stretch tutu
« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2020, 23:23:49 PM »
I would imagine that the top stitching is done on a coverstitch machine so it will have criss cross stitches on the back made by loopers.  That means that the fabric can still stretch without the thread breaking.

Definitely.  I'm sure any commercial/RTW stretch garment nowadays will have topstitching done by a coverstitch machine.  With just one needle in use it does look like a regular lockstitch on the top.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
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