How do you transfer pattern markings?

[Acorn]

I transfer everything with tailor's chalk or soluble pen, using pins sticking through from both sides to keep the position before marking it.

[Ploshkin]

@Acorn isn't that a faff because presumably you have to lift the edge of the pattern piece to mark where each pin has gone through, not sure how you would  do the lower layer of fabric.   I would have thought that would make the markings less likely to be accurate.  With tailor tacks you can do them straight after cutting, before the piece is moved if you want.  They mark both layers simultaneously.
@Francesca it sounds as if you are doing them right.  If you make the tails longer than the loop they shouldn't pull out of the fabric when you separate the 2 layers.  So long as one bit of thread remains the mark is still there.

[Kwaaked]

I do whatever works, but I admit, I don't usually cut on the fold.  I do it in a single layer.

[Acorn]

@Ploshkin I put a pin straight down through the point of a dart (through pattern and double layer of fabric), and then, after cutting out, but before opening out, I put another one through the same point going upwards, so that when I do open the fabric out the pins separate and one remains at the point of each dart.  The other end of the dart I mark directly with chalk/pen as I draw around the pattern, then join the pinpoint to the ends with a ruler.

To be honest, I'm not bothered about absolute accuracy with marking darts because I will adjust them to suit me later anyway.  Initially they're just a starting point.

I also don't make particularly tailored clothes, so I rarely have much to transfer in the way of markings!

[Tamnymore]

I use tailor tacks for markings and notches. Before I got an overlocker I did triangles pointing away from the seam for notches but you can't do that if you serge the pattern pieces cos you snip off your triangles. Your tailor tacks sound right Fran!

[BrendaP]

Before I got an overlocker I did triangles pointing away from the seam for notches but you can't do that if you serge the pattern pieces cos you snip off your triangles. Your tailor tacks sound right Fran!

The triangle notches at the sides of the fabric are for aligning two edges.  Once those edges are correctly aligned and sewn the notches are redundant so  it doesn't matter if the overlocker cuts them off.

Tailor tacks are for getting darts stitched in the right place and the other balance marks - squares, circles, triangles - are positioned on the stitching line and are for things like getting the middle of the sleeve cap exactly where it meets the shoulder seam, or for getting the inner edge of a collar at just the right position on the neckline.

[BrendaP]

I think the only way to get tailor's tacks with all the ends very close together is to pass the needle through in one pass and back in another pass.  The thicker the fabric the further apart the two pairs of ends will be when you do it in one pass.

[Tamnymore]

I overlock my pattern pieces before I sew the pattern pieces together which is why I don't do triangle notches. I do a tailor tack just a little bit in from the edge to mark the notch so the overlocker doesn't slice it off. If I have a lot of my markings I do the pattern markings in one colour of thread and the notch tailor tacks in another. You could do triangle notches if you attached two pieces then serged after - that would be ok for some seams.

[eclectic]

Here is a nifty gadget for making holes in your patterns https://www.morplan.com/shop/en/morplan/pattern-drills

[Bodgeitandscarper]

Transfer pattern markings?  We're supposed to do that? 

Actually, I do the single stitch, double thread type tailor's tack if absolutely necessary (I often get away with carefully placed pins though), and notches are little snips into the seam allowance.  if there are other markings like on a collar for the shoulder seams, the get a little snip too, not the approved method I'm sure, but hey... 

[classical retro]

I've just started using tracing wheel and carbon paper. It was great for darts and cf and button hole markings, the latter always getting lost in the myriad of tailors tacks by the time I got to the end of the garment. Made a bit of a mess of the pattern, but I've found a duller wheel and am learning not to press on so hard. I'll probably use tacks for short term marks and tracing wheel for things that need longevity. I'm useless at getting dots in exactly the right place on both pieces of fabric, so I gave up on that. Notches cut as triangles out.
CR

[Nevis5]

I use whatever method I feel like at the time    I always tailor tack my bust darts, often snip into the seam allowances for triangles and notches and sometimes use trace tacking for trickier things like pleats and tucks. I have a plethora of chalk and marker pens but nine times out of ten I default back to the good old tailors tack. 

[Greybird]

I do use tailor tacks on darts, circles etc, but only once through and back again - I think it's supposed to be three passes through? I always cut notches outward from the seam allowance. I have never got on with marking longer pattern markings like pleats etc. I somehow just muddle through with those.
On pale fabrics I use Frixion pens but only after testing them on scrap fabric and inside the seam allowance.

[Gernella]

I've always used tailor tacks as that's what I was taught at school.  However after using  fabric that didn't like pins I finished up sticking one pin through each spot and marking with chalk.  As it  saved me a lot of time I've continued doing this.  Notches I just mark with my chalk pencil.  I've come unstuck when markings have been hidden by interfacing so now I just remember to put them on the right side as it easily brushes off.

[Ohsewsimple]

I generally use tailors tacks, double pass and loooooong thread.  That way they don’t seem to fall out.  Been caught out like that before.  Snip notches inwards unless seam allowance is small and then resort to a small thread tack at right angles to the seam.  These are done on a single layer.