The Sewing Place

Grading down from a plus size Burda pattern-advice please

Lachica

Grading down from a plus size Burda pattern-advice please
« on: July 30, 2019, 22:37:46 PM »
I found a pattern I like in a Burda magazine but it's a plus size one which starts at a continental 44. This translates as an 18, I need a 12/14. It has an inner and an outer layer with a twist at the shoulders which reveals the inner layer on the outside. It only has 3 pieces, I've traced it and I hope graded it down by 2 sizes, by measuring the increments, doubling then subtracting them. (After doing that I realise I need to add seam allowances too...) The bust dart looks a bit small, and low, and the whole thing still looks quite wide, though it's a loose fitting style. Has anyone any experience of adapting patterns in this way? The feature I like is the twist in the shoulders. I know I can toile it but I might spend time more wisely by using a shell top which I know fits and develop my own twist on the shoulders.
Mary
2019 stash used so far: about 10m stash added:5m

toileandtrouble

Re: Grading down from a plus size Burda pattern-advice please
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2019, 03:13:29 AM »
Perhaps the twist on the shoulder brings in some of the width  and raises the dart a little?

Lachica

Re: Grading down from a plus size Burda pattern-advice please
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2019, 08:32:46 AM »
@toileandtrouble yes! Thank you, I knew someone clever on here would have the answer.
Mary
2019 stash used so far: about 10m stash added:5m

SewRuthieSews

Re: Grading down from a plus size Burda pattern-advice please
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2019, 10:20:48 AM »
I think the plus patterns cater for a larger bust but that might not be a problem.
Make it up in an old sheet first to see what the fit is like for you.

Missie

Re: Grading down from a plus size Burda pattern-advice please
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2019, 10:59:51 AM »
What is the pattern as I might have a similar Burda magazine one from years ago that is non-plus size.  The description is ringing a bell
« Last Edit: July 31, 2019, 17:45:45 PM by Missie »
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

Lachica

Re: Grading down from a plus size Burda pattern-advice please
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2019, 14:37:49 PM »
@Missie it's July 2016,  [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]    [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]  

I'll toile it with some old fabric first but @toileandtrouble could be right about the twist raising the bust point. Do you think I could get away with making just one layer for the toile? To save time?
Mary
2019 stash used so far: about 10m stash added:5m