The Sewing Place

Chiffon Dress

charlotte

Chiffon Dress
« on: September 16, 2019, 15:45:59 PM »
Looking to make a sheer dress to be worn over a shift/slip. Using the sleeves and neckline from Vogue 1558 but with an elasticated waist, so no pleats or waist seam. I have a cheap poly chiffon and a pricier embroidered one, so I am thinking overlocked seams for the cheap one as a wearable muslin, and then french seams for the fancier one. I would prefer to leave out the zip, so I am thinking a keyhole/open upper back and a button on the back collar.

Any tips for a keyhole back in sheer fabric? Haven't quite decided how I will do it yet: I could leave the back seam in and leave it open half-way, or cut out the keyhole and use bias binding, or use a facing, or add a split back yoke. Any other suggestions? If I use bias-binding can I use self-fabric or do I need something more opaque?

BrendaP

Re: Chiffon Dress
« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2019, 16:47:46 PM »
That pattern says for moderate stretch knits only.  I think that means about 25% stretch.  Does your chiffon have that much stretch?
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: Chiffon Dress
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2019, 17:08:40 PM »
Re the stretch - I would think if you are using just the sleeves and collar, then making the body plain and loose but with elastic at the waist, then it would work?  I'd be trying to use binding for the back opening I think, but Ive never really sewn something like that, and chiffon may be even more difficult.

I'll be interested to see how you get on, don't forget the pics  :)

charlotte

Re: Chiffon Dress
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2019, 17:58:30 PM »
Yes sorry I will be adjusting the sizing for woven fabric. Neckband will need redrafting but otherwise I think it will work with my elastic at the waist. That’s what the cheap chiffon is for!

Manuela

Re: Chiffon Dress
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2019, 06:01:08 AM »
@charlotte, stabilising your chiffon with gelatine will make cutting and sewing a whole lot easier:

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2012/10/23/firming-up-fabrics-with-gelatine

Catllar

Re: Chiffon Dress
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2019, 19:25:05 PM »
I'd play with a facing for the keyhole, you'll get a neater finish than with a binding. You could face it with a flesh toned net or lining ( that's what I do for the frilly frocks anyway)
If life gives you lemons, add to gin and tonic !

elisep

Re: Chiffon Dress
« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2019, 08:19:42 AM »
Are you keeping the waist seam? Since you intend to wear it over a slip, if it were me, I'd leave the whole back open with a covered button at the neckline. That way you only need to do a narrow hem at the centre back.  But that may not be the look you're going for!
Looking forward to seeing what you make of it. I keep eyeing off that pattern, but I don't think high necklines are very flattering on me.
Stash Busting 2020
Goal: 50 metres
Used: 19.5 metres

charlotte

Re: Chiffon Dress
« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2019, 14:26:45 PM »
I got distracted by other projects so this dress is not started. And I am worried it is now getting too cold for a chiffon dress. :D

I will make it eventually, but maybe not until after Christmas!

I was going to get rid of the waist seam, but actually I think I will keep it as it will make a nice channel for my elastic. So I will probably keep the centre back seam and sew it from the waist to just above the bra line, so it will cover the vest slip, and then extend the neck binding/ collar (haven't decided what I'm doing yet) to have a button and button hole.