The Sewing Place

Pauline Alice Quart Coat

b15erk

Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« on: February 11, 2020, 14:36:17 PM »
The coat has begun.  Baby steps atm.  I've spent the morning sticking the pattern pieces together, and roughly cutting them out to see if I can get this coat out of the fabric available.

I've attached pics of two possible layouts, and I think, that by the time I've cut the correct size out, and laid the fabric out properly, I may have enough fabric.

At this point, it's looking like I'll only get one collar on the fold, but I'm sure the under collar can be pieced.  I've even managed to get it all on-grain!

Also, at some point this week, I need to go in to town to buy interfacings etc.

Fingers very firmly crossed on this one!

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ellabella

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2020, 14:51:23 PM »
Well done Jessie, pattern companies have to be generous with their estimates but 50% seems a bit much.

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2020, 14:53:02 PM »
If you want to have the collar as a full stand up collar, it might be worth thinking about piecing the top collar rather than the undercollar - you will see the undercollar CB seam, not so much the top collar.  Get some canvas for interfacing it, too, to get a good stiffness into it that will hold the shape without too much bulk.

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2020, 14:55:54 PM »
Looking at a few images of the coat (gorgeous!), it would be worth cutting the canvas on the bias.  You could then put a bit of pad stitching into the front top corner to get the roll down and keep it where you want it, assuming you want it to curl downwards, of course.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2020, 15:03:06 PM »
Girls, thank you so much!  I'll need all the help I can get with this.  ;) @dolcevita , I've put canvas on the shopping list, and I'll make a note about the collar when I get to that point.

Fortunately, Google has provided a lot of information on this coat.  There is a blog post from SunnyGalStudio, which shows her progress in good detail. :)

Then, I found gold.  Pauline Alice have their own tutorial, that you can print off!  It looks quite detailed too. :)

All this for £8?  Seems pretty good value to me.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2020, 13:47:02 PM »
Gutted!

Just been going through the Pauline Alice tutorial, and realised that when I was checking to see if I had enough fabric, I had missed a crucial piece.

So, not only have I only 1 complete collar, I have no front facing.

Time for a fabric re-think...  :'(

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2020, 15:00:48 PM »
Do you have a contrast fabric that you would happy to use?  You could do the inside/upper collar and facings in a contrast.  Perhaps a pale grey? Alternatively, with a bit more work, you could reduce the size of the pleated section and either have fewer pleats or less deep ones.  Cut the pockets from lining material with the outer edge from the main fabric (you generally only see the first couple of inches of the inside of a pocket) as well, and this would give you enough room to squeeze out the facing from the layout on the second photo, moving the pocket bag out of the way.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2020, 15:09:06 PM »
@dolcevita , thank you so much for the encouragement!  I will go back and have another look at the layout.

It also crossed my mind that I could do it as a shorter jacket, without the pleats.  It's an option.

I do like those pleats though... ;)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Tamnymore

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2020, 16:49:34 PM »
@b15erk you've done a great job getting all those pattern pieces onto your fabric. Looking good!  I sometimes make the undercollar in my lining fabric and I've also made front facings in lining fabric when I haven't got enough main fabric. This is also a good way of eliminating bulk if your fabric is quite thick.
'One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.' Oscar Wilde

Ohsewsimple

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2020, 17:10:59 PM »
Some great suggestions for squeezing this pattern out of what you have.  I have seen a vintage coat somewhere that was lined to the edge, eliminating the need for facings altogether as @Tamnymore suggested.  I remembered it because I thought it looked beautiful.  If you do manage to out facings in, they can be cut in two sections with a diagonal seam to join.  Just don’t forget to add seam allowances!   :)

Nevis5

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2020, 07:41:32 AM »
That was my first thought, too @Ohsewsimple  !  I have definitely done this on jacket facings when I hadn't got enough fabric for a full length facing.   Good luck, @b15erk !  I'm itching to see the results as this is such a lovely jacket pattern.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #11 on: February 14, 2020, 10:27:34 AM »
Well, look what I've turned up!  Inside the treadle cupboard of all places.

There is about 4yards (or more) of this lovely fabric.  It's a very loose weave, but heavy, so will need stabilising, but I've no idea of the composition - it doesn't feel like wool though.  The lining fabric is a heavy, drapey satin, and feels very lush.

So, what do you think of the idea of using this fabric instead of the lovely blue?  I know that I will have enough of this, so won't need to faff about.  It will also give me a chance to see how the pattern makes up, and whether I can use the blue for a modified model.

I also managed to get interfacing yesterday, a yard of cotton iron on, which is beautiful, but I got the last yard, some bog standard fusible, and a couple of yards of very narrow interfacing which looks perfect for facings.  So, far I haven't got any canvas - is there anything else I can use?  The only one I found was white iron on which I don't think I want. I also ordered some tie interfacing for sleeve heads, but I think I'll make my own shoulder pads.

What are your thoughts?  I really want to make a start over the weekend.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

wrenkins

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #12 on: February 14, 2020, 10:40:20 AM »
With it being a loose weave, how would it hold the pleats? I know nothing about these things.  :[
Fashion fades, style is forever!

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #13 on: February 14, 2020, 10:43:55 AM »
@wrenkins , well, I've sort of glossed over that bit, but vague thoughts about using a fine interfacing?  I have got plenty of fabric to practice with...

thrust someone to find the fatal flaw...  ;)

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

wrenkins

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #14 on: February 14, 2020, 10:49:19 AM »
I see for problems because I'm afraid of fabric that has a mind of it's own.  0_0 My school uniform had a pleated skirt and we stapled them!  0_0 Made a feature if you will...  :S
Fashion fades, style is forever!