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Messages - Elnnina

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451
Thanks Sewbee yes that is the pattern.  The latest Threads magazine 207 February March 2020 has an article featuring this pattern and the person who has made this up was also using Totally Stable  - iron on, tear away stabilizer to create even parallel tucks.

I already have another pattern by Simplicity 2365 which has a tucked central panel with shoulder princess seaming,  and a center front seam with buttons just sewn on the seam, and also Simplicity  3786 which is very similar and also has shoulder princess seams, but I rather like the way a V has been created in the Butterick pattern and proper buttons and fastening loops, and it is the way the V shape has been bound and cuts across some of the tucks that make it a little different.

I am hoping that some tops made using these patterns with the tucks will give just that little bit extra space to cover my abdomen which seems to start high up under the bust - you never know it might even disguise this part for me - I live in hope!

Thanks also Jessie - it may well be the first of the Simplicity patterns I mentioned again discontinued,  I spent a long time on making a center front tucked part ready to merge in with the shoulder princess toile I have been working on, I tried various sewing machines trying to get the tucks just right without the foot on the machine getting pushed aside and of course the last machine I used was the most expensive of my collection and has a 9mm needle width and that made such a difference - I have never sewn so many trial tucks in my life before and used a zipper foot, an ordinary foot, an old Singer edge stitch foot - they all got in the way of the previous stitched tuck.  Now that hopefully spring and summer are on the way I need to get a move on and get this trial top connected to the rest of the bodice and see how it is looking on.

452
Please has anyone got Butterick 6208 which is a tuck pleated tunic pattern in the largest sizing.  I rather like the way they have done the neckline and the front opening.  This appears to be an out of print pattern and whilst I have looked on line particularly at the USA sites, this pattern does not appear to be around.  The picture on the pattern envelope shows a peach coloured tunic top.  If anyone can help I would really appreciate this, or if anyone has this pattern and can give me a tracing of the top part of the front with the neck shape and facing this would help.  Thanks

453
In the wardrobe / Re: Purple wool cape
« on: March 08, 2020, 14:21:32 PM »
Silver Rose that is a lovely cape - gorgeous colour too, now go and enjoy wearing this.

454
Patchwork & Quilting ... Welcome to the Darkside / Re: UFOs
« on: March 08, 2020, 14:20:02 PM »
Whilst I am not a Darksider, I do occasionally read what is going on over your way.  So Lowena I am surprised at your comments on your Temperature Quilt and that you have gone off it and it is unfinished and that you are thinking of putting a back on it but not the middle layer.  Surely with all that fabric that you have used for this Quilt topper you can unpick and use the pieces in with other things - otherwise it is just a waste.  I believe you went shopping quite recently and came home having spent something like £68 on yet more fabric for something else, now couldn't you have used some of the pieces from the UFO quilt, certainly the backing I presume is in one piece and that could be used for something?  Perhaps you do not like unpicking, but just think of all that fabric you have used - if you do not want it I am sure other Darksiders would be grateful to have the chance of using the fabric.

Whilst I am more a dressmaker than anything else all my sewing life I have enjoyed making something out of nothing it really gives me a buzz and a lot of satisfaction when I have made a child's dress out of a long skirt - perhaps that is the way I grew up - money was tight and we had to make do, thus being number 19 out of 22 grandchildren to my Grandparents there were always passed on garments and if they didn't fit us, we often had to take them apart to see what we could make.  I once made myself a full length slip from parachute silk - now that was all cut into huge triangles but it was surprising what we could make out of this and it was lovely fabric to work with.

455
The Haberdashery / Re: Gütermann Overlocker thread - very fine
« on: March 07, 2020, 15:23:07 PM »
Bodgetandscarper you are welcome to have what few cops of Moon thread I have as I dislike this so much.  Let me know if you want them please.

456
The Haberdashery / Re: Marking Tools
« on: March 06, 2020, 12:58:53 PM »
There are tailors tacks which we probably learnt how to do these at senior school to mark the darts essentially then there is tailoring tacking which is very different this is a line of long tacking just one stitch at a time and used in marking seams and easily pulls out in one long line of thread - whereas the tailors tacks are small individual tacks sewn on top of one another with a loop in the middle sewn through two layers of fabric and then pulled apart and cut - yes you can still use these to mark but if you are doing a long line i.e. a seam line it takes much longer however try both methods and see how you get on.

457
The Haberdashery / Re: Marking Tools
« on: March 06, 2020, 12:27:16 PM »
Well Jessie you ask a very valid question, it all depends what is now available today in terms of gadgets.  I was introduced to Wax chalk back when I learnt tailoring, came in the same shape as the triangular ordinary chalk but the advantage of the wax chalk was that the mark stayed put until an iron went near it.  This was a white wax - do not know if there was ever a coloured wax chalk though.   We also used ordinary tailors chalk but that does brush off very easily.   We also learnt how to do Tailoring Tacking  - these were long even  stitches, but do not go round any corners, instead cut the cotton thread at the pint of a corner and leave long ends.  Back in those days there were not so many different types of sewing thread, good old Sylko 40 and occasionally Sylko 50.  The spools of thread on a cardboard tube were not so easy to get hold of and tended to be a rougher thread and this is what was used for this type of tacking as being slightly rougher it held in the fabric better.  Today I use my old Sylko threads - and I have a lot - for tacking and also for marking out embroidery fabric for hand embroidery as I like to replicate lines  crisscrossing over my fabric or canvas that match up to my chart - then it is so easy to follow.

However over the years I have acquired many gadgets and one is something called a Hera Marker by Clover - a nifty little gadget that is in plastic and has a honed shape at one end and you draw this along the fabric quite firmly and this just leaves an indentation on the fabric which should last until you press this out.

I also have had since my teenage years a handy little gadget called Measuring Gauge and this is plastic and was originally marketed by Milward and is small enough to hold in your hand and has what I call small fingers each a different measurement from 1/8" up to 2" and on those old Milward ones they had the metric measurements on the reverse.   I had managed to find a metal one of these in a Patchwork and Quilting shop and all was well until it fell on the floor and I rolled my chair over it.  Trying to find another metal one was not easy and eventually I found them at  Pelenna Patchwork down in Port Talbot only these are only in imperial measurements - I would be lost without mine.  In fact as I still believe in tacking I am using this little gauge all the time and it does not take long to tack and use this - takes a lot of guess work out.

Two other gadgets I find really useful are a superfine Chaco Liner by Clover - this is a bit like a lipstick that contains chalk and has the finest serrated metal wheel in the top and thus leaves a very fine line of chalk - you can get refill bottles of chalk and this comes in colours as well as the usual white.  The other gadget is by Prym and is a Parallel Tracing Wheel - this again contains chalk and you have a choice of measurements to set the extra wheel on - this I found in a sewing shop and came on a card - not exactly cheap but I thought it was worth it.

458
Patterns Discussion / Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« on: March 05, 2020, 12:49:08 PM »
Jessie why don't you take a trip to a shoe shop and ask if they have any boot boxes - I have an Ecco boot box size 59x36.5x11.5cms that I spotted on the shoe box discard heap and asked if I could have it - specifically for putting work in progress in, it keeps it all in place until I need a certain piece and there is no risk of it getting lost, crumpled or anything else, and it sits alongside my cabinet.  You might find that they also have some smaller but deep boxes with an attached lid (Padders) and that is also a useful size.

459
Patterns Discussion / Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« on: March 05, 2020, 11:20:00 AM »
You are getting there Jessie, you are also learning a lot - tailoring is a real steep learning curve - and just think what you have managed to achieve so far. 

Just be careful with the iron on interfacings unless they are really attached they can bubble - just keep your eyes open and look at ready made coats and jackets that people are wearing and see if you can spot the bubbling - it is an eye opener.

Just be patient, it will all come together eventually and you will be pleased and it will be worth every minute you have spent and then you will have a permanent reference to all the techniques  you have used ready for future garments.

460
Patterns Discussion / Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« on: February 28, 2020, 15:20:42 PM »
Jessie please do not get disheartened by what is happening with your coat and the shrinkage.  Just put this down to the learning process - that is why when I first learnt about tailoring we spent the first term just making a sample - I still have mine and often refer to this permanent work sample and it shows all the different types of stitching that we learnt along the way and it is really useful.  Now some people complained that this was not what they signed up for, they had expected to just jump in straight away and not spend the time learning all the new techniques and what we packed into that first term was in fact what in the industry would have been a year or so of an apprenticeship.

Remember I mentioned a book to you when you first started this coat, Samuel Heath's Coat and Skirt Making - I only found this book on the library for sale trolley for £1 some 40 years after I had done that tailoring course, and this is the only book I have seen that featured the type of techniques that I learnt - I love pad stitching it is really satisfying, and also trying to shrink wool to do what you want it to do, i.e. to take a dart out of the wool without actually stitching or cutting the wool - something quite satisfying really.

Whatever you do in the end with this coat do keep it as your permanent workbook of what you have done and how you have done this.

461
Oh Wrenkins you do make me laugh, and yes to add to the Curve Master feet I do happen to have quite a few P&Q books and even some templates  BUT  I do not have time for this at the current time, I need to do dressmaking in order to clothe myself and that is urgent.  However I did do a little P&Q work for my GCE exam many moons ago, and more recently I made my then young grandson a quilted Christmas stocking and Advent Calendar.  I do hope that one day I can find time to dabble more in this wonderful world of P&Q -we will have to wait and see.  But as you will see I said I am a sucker for finding little gadgets to help me in my sewing and another one I have and again found in that shop Inca Studio a good few years ago now, was the Clover Hera Marker which is primarily for marking lines on P&Q fabric but I could see its uses in dressmaking, and then there is another Clover gadget called   Finger Presser and again that is useful for pressing open seams if  I cannot immediately get to an iron.  Another gadget I have had for as long as I can remember - going back to the early days of working was something by Milwards called Handy Sewing Gauge , only then it was plastic, and I found a metal one imported from the USA in Inca Studio only I ran my chair over this and buckled it somewhat and trying to find anther metal one was difficult and I seem to recall yet another P&Q place tucked away in Wales where I bought a couple of these for just in case.  So I am not totally a lost cause, you never know I might suddenly surprise you all and become a darksider.

462
Patterns Discussion / Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« on: February 26, 2020, 18:03:41 PM »
Jessie I was also taught to pre-shrink any woollen fabric first using a wet cloth and at that time a hot iron (not a steam iron as they were not around then) and it works, but it does take a lot of time handling the yardage used for a coat on a domestic ironing board - also the wool gives off a strange smell.  Nowadays I would use a piece of sheeting and a hot iron and have a bowl of water alongside in order to keep on putting the piece of sheeting in - it is surprising just how quickly it dries out.  Then once the length of fabric has been treated, leave it to get totally dry before trying to cut it out.

463
Ellabella apparently it says yes on the card for the 5/8" so that is one of the reasons for my buying this particular one as I am really a dressmaker as opposed to a quilter.  From memory they were not cheap around the £25 I think. 

I must say I do like being able to feed the fabric through the machine with the edge right up against something.  I happen to use a lovely decorative edge stitch on all my hems and necklines on my nightdresses, thus being able to have this facility  it makes sure that the resulting scallop edge is in the exact place all the way around.

464
Now there is a solution  for those who want to sew curves on their patchwork and quilting, and it is called Curve Master presser foot - invented by  quilter for quilters.  This ensures automatic easing of curves for a perfect fit - no pinning necessary, no clipping of seam allowance needed.  Precise 1/4" seam guide for curves or straight seams.  Fits most sewing machines - universal adapters included.

The pack includes low shank and high shank, Singer slant needle, and Kenmore high shank adapters, Pfaff  and Singer featherweights require low shank.  Note Bernina sewing machines require a Bernina adaptor to use with shank adaptor.

Curve Master L.L.C, Pensacola, Fl 32507.  http://home.earthlink.net/~curvemaster  This information is taken from the card that this was on.  The actual foot and adaptors are in a small plastic box that was attached to the card.

Now this was bought by me many years ago when there was a lovely P&Q shop here in Bucks down Princes Risborough way - it  was called Inca Studio and sadly this has long gone.  Then a year or so later they brought out another one of these feet and this time for 5/8" foot along with its universal adaptors and still saying it will stitch perfect curves.  Only this time the website has changed and was http://www.curvemaster.biz

I am a bit of a sucker when I see nifty gadgets and have learnt to buy things when I see them, because I have often found that when I do want them I cannot get hold of them.  So whether these two Curve Masters are still around I do not know but you Darksiders who frequent P&Q shops and exhibitions might find these feet there.   The American Darksiders might know more about whether these gadgets are still around.

465
What a lovely shirt, the two fabrics go so well together and you are so neat.  The placket is lovely too.  You have certainly got me thinking about using the bias as a front of a shirt - as I too often need extra room in that department.

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