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Messages - Andymat

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16
Update...

Well I have finished, sort of. I haven't put in the button holes and added buttons. Perhaps I should as all good experience.

BUT... I sewed the side seams of the body front and back together and there is no mention of top-stitching the seam even though there is much more room than on the arms! But I did it anyway and caught the rest of the material in the needle and had to pull it apart and re-do!  :headbang: The instructions did say to top stitch the yoke but I suppose that is to keep the shape too, more so than the sides or sleeves.

Similarly, no mention of pressing to the body or the arms for the arm connection. I am guessing I would press to the body and stitch around the arm? Would that be correct?

The semi-finished shirt fits well except that it has a boxed pleat in the centre back and the material is so light it tends to balloon up at the back enough for me to wonder if I should put in a couple of darts below the arms at the back to stop this happening. Would that be a good idea on the production version do you think?

Will add the pics of the toile as it is now.

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17
Ah yes @HenriettaMaria I was just thinking what you want is the machine bed to run front/back not left/right as they generally are on a standard home machine. Perhaps a little over the top to get a machine specifically for this purpose but I can see why a factory might get one!

18
I turn my sleeve inside out, put the seam to be top stitched under the needle, wide side first, and then sew down, scrunching as I go. I suppose practice makes perfect but I manage them quite well now. But there again I've done a fair few. :P

I have seen that you make a fair few shirts. I did manage the first time so I can see it as possible. Probably beginner's luck! Not sure I would bother now on the real item although I'm in awe of your dedication!

Does it matter that you top stitch from the bottom?

19
Thanks everyone for your replies. I am thinking the emerging consensus is - why would you even try!

The pattern instructions say at the beginning to over-lock the edges of all pattern pieces which I have taken with a pinch of salt - seems a bit over the top really. But I did do the sleeve pieces so when the sleeve is closed the edges are already protected, if individually rather than together.

I suppose one of the points of the top stitching is aesthetics - but as pointed out, who is going to see it under the arms?

The other point is to tidy away the seam material but if it is over-locked, I'm sure I will survive!

I think leaving the long edges un-neatened, using an overlocker to close the seam and neaten at the same time is the answer.

I am glad I decided to to a toile! That's not to say I wont make mistakes in the real go, but at least I will have an idea of what I'm trying to do!

Thanks again for everyone's help.

20
I am test making a mens tunic shirt with long sleeves and a button placket (a toile in quite open and fine calico). The pattern is by “wardrobe by me” men’s tunic shirt, view A.

So you do the placket on the open sleeve and then you sew the edges together to make the tubular sleeve. They then say, “press the seam allowance towards the back and topstitch the seam”.

Well at the top end it is quite wide and difficult but possible. But as you get closer to the cuff it gets more and more difficult. Going round the circumference of the sleeve is fine - as in doing a cuff but going down the length and the material I have sewn has to go round through 90 degrees to slide it out of the way of the foot onto the machine. It is also getting tighter as you go down!

I did manage with a lot of fiddling on the first one but it was quite wavey - not professional looking at all. On the second one I caught some of the material from the other side which was all bunched up and had to unpick some of it and the start again from the cuff end. Ok on a toile but not good on a real garment.

Looking at the video tutorial they provide, they miss out the top stitching all together!

Is there a clever way to do this or is it just a matter of practice? I did wonder if there was a special type of seam like a French seam that would make it easier but I still think you have to get the tube over the machine to sew!






21
Your Favourite Suppliers / Re: Newcastle upon Tyne area fabric shops?
« on: June 15, 2022, 15:01:17 PM »
Tried to reply earlier to no avail!
We have Boyes in Nottingham In Arnold which isn't far from me.

Seems like they are spread further than I thought!


[As an aside, when I was studying at Loughborough a long while ago now we used to go to Nottingham sometimes for shopping and I was tickled whenever I saw a Bus called Arnold! Was also intrigued that on the buses the conductor would call everyone m'duck. Even the male conductors!]

22
Your Favourite Suppliers / Re: Newcastle upon Tyne area fabric shops?
« on: June 15, 2022, 14:56:08 PM »
I think Immanuel Fabrics in Burnley have a stall on the market in South Shields on a Saturday.
https://www.immanuelfabrics.com/about

Well that's good to know!

23
Your Favourite Suppliers / Re: BST - fabric shop
« on: June 15, 2022, 10:54:53 AM »
See my post about BST Fabrics here

Not bought on line with them as I live local but have a good selection of fabric.

24
Your Favourite Suppliers / Re: Newcastle upon Tyne area fabric shops?
« on: June 15, 2022, 10:48:47 AM »
Well I live in South Shields and have really only found 1st 4 fabrics and my local shop BST Fabtics which I can tell you about.

I bought my over-locker from the Singer shop in Whitley bay. As mentioned they generally a machine shop and have piles of machines in boxes everywhere. They sell a lot on line nowadays (www.sewingmachinesales.co.uk) and lots of spares. They do have a limited haberdashery and some fabric but it is not their speciality. As you are in Blyth it is probably your nearest shop and worth a visit if you are in the area. Not really somewhere to spend lots of time browsing though.

1st 4 Fabrics is a unit in an industrial estate near Hollystone just off the A19 (take turning opposite massive ASDA superstore). It is quite big with a good selection/range of fabrics. I wouldn't say they are the cheapest but not too bad and great for browsing. @Ouryve  Yes I would say it was worth a visit.
**BUT** make sure you check their opening times as they tend not to be open in the mornings (www.1stforfabrics.co.uk). Last time I tried to visit on a Monday morning they were only open from 1pm-4pm that day. Looking at the website now they are closed Mondays and open 10am-4.30pm Tues-Sat.

BST Fabrics is my local shop and is again an industrial unit in an estate in South Shields. They are I think cheaper than 1st 4 fabrics and possibly have more stock although they might tend to go for the cheaper end of the market. When I was looking for sweatshirt fabric, they only really had Polyester materials. They do however have the best haberdashery I have found in the area. Loads of thread zips, cord, elastic etc. They have a wide colour selection of rib materials cut for cuffs which I found better than 1st 4 fabrics who only seem to have basic colours in rib. Another good place to spend time browsing.
BST is on the otherside of the Tyne from you @SewRuthieSews so the tyne tunnel will cost £1.90 each way which you have to pay by midnight the next day or get fined (they have taken away the pay booths now)

I'm sure there are some small shops around specialising in quilting of other niches but I have not found any around here yet.

The other place you might try is Boyes stores which are a local chain - @Ouryve  will know them. They tend to be in small towns in North Yorkshire up to the Tyne. I think that the furthest north is here in South Shields but might be wrong? There is one in Barnard Castle if you head back that way to test your eyesight! And Durham and Darlington.
They are a department store but they do tend have a small selection of materials and Haberdashery. Good prices.

I must try to get to Sew Fabrics in Darlington  that @Ouryve mentions as I did not know they existed. Mad as I used to live in Darlington!!

Happy to answer any more questions if I can help.

Andy

25
Thanks @Andymat.  Wobble stitch is just a very narrow zig zag stitch.  I used a .5 width and length 3 It’s barely noticeable as a zig zag, hence the wobble, but still gives a small amount of stretch.

I have just found a screen shot I took when I was investigating what wobble stitch was on the inter web thingy. Don’t know why I didn’t post it at the time but think it is quite amusing!

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That is a thought!

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Thanks @StitchinTime  - that is fabulous. But I am now realising, a lot of work!!

28
Turnips in your trousers  :S sounds uncomfortable! Does the suit still fit? Do you like it?

Yes it fits surprisingly! I quite like the material - a fine hounds tooth. I either need to make use of it or it's material or dispose of it somehow.


You’d really have to know what you’re doing.  I don’t think it’s worth it.

From what you say it doesn't sound easy at all and I'm pretty well unskilled when it comes to tailoring so I suspect you are right about whether it is worth it.

Did you wear it with a Flock of Seagulls mullet ???

Wish I'd had the courage at the time! Feels a bit more Spandau Ballet - more sophisticated.  :)

TBH I'd probably donate it to a charity shop .. although look at Joey D of Edinburgh's FB page for ideas about how to deconstruct traditional Harris Tweed jackets.

Probably will end up this way I suspect - the charity shop, not de-constructed!


Thanks for all your thoughts! Even Iminei's!  ;)

29
I have had this suit for ages and ages and it has hardly been used really. It is from the '80s I think as it is double breasted, has shoulder pads, and the trousers have turnips (I think I meant to write turn-ups. damned autocorrect  :angry:)  and waist pleats. We went to a wedding a couple of weeks ago and I was not allowed to wear it as it was so out of fashion!

Has anyone got any inspirational thoughts as to how I could modify it? Or is it just a matter of saving some of the material for the stash, sending it to the charity shop (is it ever going to be used in it's current state), or scraping it entirely?

Any thoughts would be welcome.

It is from Burtons and is 60% wool, 40% Polyester with viscose lining and says dry clean only.

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30
Access All Accessories / Re: The Wallet.
« on: April 25, 2022, 11:23:03 AM »
I'm very impressed Bill.
As people say, the binding looks very neat, particularly around the corners which I think could be tricky.

I have the "The Gentleman's wardrobe" book but have yet to summon up the courage to brave any of the projects.  :o

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