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Messages - Missie

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61
For Sale, Wanted & Free to a good home / Re: Kremke Soul Wool
« on: July 07, 2023, 11:36:34 AM »
Have also found Wool on the Exe and Knit Bliss Yarns

62
For Sale, Wanted & Free to a good home / Re: Kremke Soul Wool
« on: July 07, 2023, 10:40:57 AM »
All About the Yarn have got some.   :thumb:

That's the one I found!

63
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: July 06, 2023, 15:39:22 PM »
Definitely use the bra she will be wearing with the dress.  A 'backless' bra may well alter the bust level.

On the toile there is too much fabric at the sides.  If you still want the back open right down to waist level you probably need to consider boning to  support the sides.

Actually, reading the description of the dress again, with the illusion net centre front, and the backless element to it, I agree with @BrendaP that you will need boning in this.  I'm sure she won't want a bra showing in the front and  to ensure that the dress doesn't slide off her shoulders, at the very least you will need boning going up the centre of the backs and the fronts to around halfway up the armscye.  This would also provide support and be used instead of a bra so you may need to consider a boned foundation.  You will need to work on this first to get the right fit before moving onto the dress.

64
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: July 06, 2023, 12:58:47 PM »
I know of others that have used lining fabric for toiles.  Although calico is generally the norm, it doesn't really matter what you use, so long as it is of an ilk to the final fabric, although the very first toiles to check for fit before proceeding to pattern design are normally made in a woven fabric.

First thing I would say is that it is really important that you make the toile and subsequent dress to the underwear that she will be wearing on the day.  Different bras will give different shapes and you need to be sure that what you are making will fit/suit the bra she is wearing on the day eg, I have 2 different styles of bra which give me an inch difference in bust measurement (not due to padding) and also a different bust point.

Looking at the front, I'd say that the curve over the bust is too high where it starts heading down the body.  That point (where is changes direction) should be on the apex of her bust.  To me it looks to be an inch or so too high and I would probably take the princess seam higher up on the arm scye as well, it looks a little too horizontal (but that is just my opinion!), although that may look better when the bust point is lowered.  There is something strange going on with the sides as well, it looks very bumpy and your daughter does not have a pick on her so it is not that it is moulding to a "rounded" body shape.  Looking at the right hand side, there is possibly too much fabric again (?side seam too long).  It that is the case, you can pinch out the fabric (essentially creating a dart), transfer this to your paper pattern and then slash and close the dart.

65
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: July 05, 2023, 16:58:45 PM »
3 hook bra suggests a larger cup size, meaning a CBA would be needed on a commercial pattern.  How did you draft this?  Did you start from full bust measurement or high bust?

Both measurements are used on a self-drafted pattern, if done correctly.

66
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: July 05, 2023, 16:57:52 PM »
My 2 pennorth, without seeing further is that a) I can't see any darts in the back; this will help shape it and pull the fabric into the body.  It also looks like there is too much length, some of the pooling will be taken up by darts, the rest you will need to take out, by raising the waist line on the back (or taking the excess fabric into the waistline) and taking some into the shoulder.

67
Technical Help / Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« on: July 03, 2023, 14:06:17 PM »
I generally keep a set of microtex needles in for any fabric that is a bit dense.  They are a marvel.

And sure why the face re quilting cotton.  I love quilting cotton for summer skirst and dresses.  Fab job on the topstitching and the dress really suits you.

68
A Good Yarn / Re: Fruit Garden
« on: June 27, 2023, 11:08:08 AM »
That look a beautiful blanket @Acorn .  I shall be watching with interest.  I'm quite fancying another Janie Crowe pattern but in the Lucia's Fig tree colourway (Fiore).

69
I think I’m a Medium Missy,

There is nothing medium about being a Missy or a Missie  :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

I'm a Dependent Demelza;  my speed is dependent on what I am sewing.  Straight lines and I'm full throttle.  Anything that it a bit tricky and I slow that machine down.

70
Dolls and Toys / Re: Finally Dolly is done
« on: June 21, 2023, 12:52:33 PM »
Oh she is fabulous and I love the hair.  Could I ask how you did it?

71
Technical Help / Re: Will you take me by the hand?
« on: June 21, 2023, 12:06:22 PM »
Ok, I'm going to go old school.  You don't need any fangle-dangled machinery or tapes or oojamaflips.  We've been sewing since before these things were invented (although not denying that they can make life easier).

1)  Wash and dry your fabrics how you will when they are made up into garments (ie, same temperature and if you are likely to tumble dry them, do that as well).  If any are dry clean, wash them anyway.  I never take anything to the dry cleaners, it all goes in the machine, on a cool gentle wash if needs be.

2)  Pin the pattern well and in the seam allowance only,  (so pin marks don't show). Do at right angles to the seam allowance in short gaps 1-2".  Use a single layer of fabric if needs be (but make sure you flip the pattern for the other leg else you'll end up with 2 legs the same!  Although to be honest, I don't consider viscose to be slippy!!!

3)  Pin the fabrics together as above (which also makes it easy to remove the pins when you are sewing the seams) and you can tack them together for extra security if you so wish.  I think an ordinary foot will be fine.  I rarely use a walking foot and I have sewn plenty of garments made of silk satin.

4) Do a double row of stitches for the crotch, one on the seam allowance line and another a couple of mm next to it in the seam allowance (for security, ie, should the stitch break).

4)  You don't need an overlocker. Yes viscose does fray, and the seams will need finishing to prevent this, but you can used a zig-zag stitch or if you have a fancy-shmancy machine, you can use the overcast stitch (but it is heavy on thread usage).  Alternatively, you could make the seam allowance 2cm (usual is 1.5cm), pink the edges, if you wish,then fold them under and stitch.

5) And most importantly, don't overthink it.  Sewing is sewing whether it is clothing or a quilt!!!


72
In the wardrobe / Re: Use of fabric
« on: June 20, 2023, 14:34:55 PM »
Just pick your scissors up and jump in, remember fabric doesn't need to be left to mature like a fine wine  :o says she who can't practice what she's preaching 😳.

I'm trying to work out if you leaving your fabric to mature or drinking your wine before maturity  ::thinks:: :laugh:

73
A Good Yarn / Re: A Silly Question...
« on: June 20, 2023, 07:59:19 AM »
Thanks @Sheilago  It's very frustrating, because the US terms make more sense, but I learned the UK ones, and I know that if I try to change I will definitely mess everything up!

Really?  I think ours makes more sense as it relates to the number of loops on the hook for the said stitch!  It is annoying, although interesting, how the same craft has the same stitches, but different names for them though.

74
Fun with Fabric / Re: stretch silk
« on: June 07, 2023, 16:15:18 PM »
If you can get to them I can recommend Broadwick Silks.  They used to be based in Soho, but have obviously moved.  Might be worth giving them a call and seeing if they have any stretch silk and if so, arrange an appointment.

75
Can't say I've noticed the emails (but I don't check mine very often) but I logged in and couldn't find any patterns, unless I got my dates wrong  ::thinks::

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