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Messages - Missie

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46
A Good Yarn / Re: Fruit Garden
« on: August 11, 2023, 13:16:47 PM »
Quote from: Acorn on August 10, 2023, 21:58:21 PM
I bought the yarn pack because I wanted the colours to be true to the pictures, but it is very clear that the samples were not made with these yarns, which look a bit dingy in comparison to the pictures. 

I thought that about The Fig Tree version of the persian tiles.  Some of the colours were distinctly meh!  However, when it was all done, it was absolutely glorious and i felt a bit bad for my initial reaction!

47
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: August 07, 2023, 14:39:54 PM »
I wouldn't cut anything off.  Get her to bend sideways on each side and where the "fold" is, that is her natural waistline.  Mark it on both side, and then put a piece of tape around her, making sure it is level between the two side points, pin it in place to mark it on the toile after.  It is very useful for you to know exactly where her waistline is.  I would then open up the seams to the waist point for now whilst you fix any fitting issues.

There is too much fabric in the back.  This may be fixed by working out where her natural waistline is and opening up the seams below, but you may well need to adjust this.

You also need to mark her bust point as well and you will need this when you do the pattern.

48
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: August 02, 2023, 14:04:23 PM »
@Cate.  Yes to all that you have said.  Skirt blocks are generally very easy so do that separate to the bodice block.  Concentrate on getting the bodice block to fit perfectly (she should wear a bra she likes her shape in when doing the bodice block so you can mimic that shape).  It may take a couple of attempts (and the armscye will never be done on first round).  Remember, you are flat drafting, and a body has asymetry at the very least.  When you are finally happy with how the bodice fits, you can then merge the two blocks (essentially lining up the waist of the bodice with the waist of the skirt, smoothing out the side seams and making sure the darts are lined up).  You can mark your design lines on the toile and trace off onto paper (although I personally would trace the final bodice toile onto paper and trace off that).  You will need to do a toile of the new pattern/dress to ensure that there are no issues with the dress pattern (such as gaping back etc).  I know it seems longwinded but I am sure that it will help you.  If your book suggests ease, I would do the bodice toile without as it will need to be snug for the boning.

Hope that helps, but shout if you need anything.

49
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: August 02, 2023, 08:34:37 AM »
Quote from: Ohsewsimple on August 01, 2023, 21:50:40 PM
@Missie of course!   I’m wondering why no one has suggested this before.  :facepalm:
Unfortunately we still don’t know what will be worn underneath the dress.  I’ve asked a few times   :(
I’d make the basic bodice and skirt toile and get those to fit.  Then use that to make the inner structure for the dress and only then draft and make the toile for the outer dress.  I would also make sure all reference lines were drawn on the calico toile, bust chest, back, waist, hipsCF etc. That makes it so much easier to see where it needs to be altered.

I'm thinking nothing as it has a deep V at the front with illusion net in it (this style is v popular currently) so a bra will be visible.  This will mean that it will need boning for bust support, but also to stop it falling off the shoulders.  The toile will , as you say, make creating the inner/foundation support easier as well.

50
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: August 01, 2023, 17:26:29 PM »
Ok, I've been thinking about this more.  I think you need to go right back to basics and get a good and full bodice toile, that is neck line to waistline, make sure that this fits properly.  You will also need to do a skirt block; you only need to do waist to hip and how you are wanting to do this (ie the slightly dropped waist), means that you will need this part as well.  A dress block is basically a bodice block and skirt block joined together.  When you have both of these fitting correctly, you can then make the pattern for the dress (ie do the shaping on the front, do the deep V on the back).  This is the correct way of making patterns (ie create a block and then create the pattern from the block) and I think it will help you get the pattern right.

51
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: July 31, 2023, 17:13:54 PM »
Quote from: Missie on July 31, 2023, 13:17:55 PM
This is perfectly doable with the low back but it will need to start 1-2  inches above the waistline (just re-reading the comments).  It will also require boning and also an inner laced insert (think corset-type lacing) which holds and supports the bodice and dress, whilst the zip just closes the fabric.  I did a course on boned bodices and this back was discussed and someone actually did one.  She had max 2 inches of fabric at the bodice back and it worked beautifully and perfectly.

I've looked at the back and I cannot see any darts.  These will help pull the dress snugly to the body (especially as you are going below the waistline) and can also be the basis of your boning.  For the innards, you will need canvas (I use tie canvas) on a backing of cotton lawn, which are then mounted on your fashion fabric (not sure if you have done this or not).

You have taken out too much at the armscye as well, I agree but armsyce are the hardest part of a toile IMO.

Don't work with lining at this point, it is detrimental to the fitting process on a toile.  Just work on getting on getting the basic layer working.  Get some medium weight calico, sew the toile with the seam allowances on the outside and work with unfinished edges.  You can make notes, adjustments etc on the toile as you go along, adding in pieces as needed, which you can't do with what you have currently (pretty though it is!)  Think of a toile as the sketches before the painted masterpiece!

52
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: July 31, 2023, 13:17:55 PM »
Quote from: BrendaP on July 30, 2023, 18:28:04 PM
Near the beginning of this thread @Morgan wrote
As it is a deep low backless bodice  there is insufficient tension  or stability in the design to hold the bodice snugged into the body.

That is still the case, and I think that you will have to incorporate one or other of the fixes that Morgan suggested.

This is perfectly doable with the low back but it will need to start 1-2  inches above the waistline (just re-reading the comments).  It will also require boning and also an inner laced insert (think corset-type lacing) which holds and supports the bodice and dress, whilst the zip just closes the fabric.  I did a course on boned bodices and this back was discussed and someone actually did one.  She had max 2 inches of fabric at the bodice back and it worked beautifully and perfectly.

I've looked at the back and I cannot see any darts.  These will help pull the dress snugly to the body (especially as you are going below the waistline) and can also be the basis of your boning.  For the innards, you will need canvas (I use tie canvas) on a backing of cotton lawn, which are then mounted on your fashion fabric (not sure if you have done this or not).

You have taken out too much at the armscye as well.

Don't work with lining at this point, it is detrimental to the fitting process on a toile.  Just work on getting on getting the basic layer working.  Get some medium weight calico, sew the toile with the seam allowances on the outside and work with unfinished edges.  You can make notes, adjustments etc on the toile as you go along, adding in pieces as needed, which you can't do with what you have currently (pretty though it is!)  Think of a toile as the sketches before the painted masterpiece!

53
Tech Know How / Re: Recommended books on pattern drafting?
« on: July 14, 2023, 13:52:38 PM »
@Ohsewsimple.  Using standardised blocks are fine for RTW but the beauty of pattern cutting is that you make a block specific to your own measurements, from which you then create the patterns for the clothes you want to wear.  For example in the C&G Pattern cutting course I did, all the scale blocks and subsequent patterns for my file were done in size 12.  However, for the physical garments, they had to be made to our own personal measurements. There are only 4 blocks (bodice, sleeve, skirt and trouser).  If these are done correctly there is no need for major reworking or refitting as they should be correct to your size (unless you have drastically changed shape!).  The work is just creating a pattern which is really very quick.

54
In the wardrobe / Re: Paid for repairs and mending?
« on: July 14, 2023, 13:43:24 PM »
Whilst I like the idea of this, if our government had to money to do this, I would far rather they put it into the NHS!

We are a consumerist society looking for instant gratification and I really can't see paying to fix would change that.  Things like this require an education programme, not paying people.  These are skills that should be taught at school and an ideology that should be taught from when young. 

55
In the wardrobe / Re: would this/could this pattern for me be mutton dressed as lamb?
« on: July 13, 2023, 11:24:39 AM »
Quote from: Gernella on July 13, 2023, 10:27:04 AM
Funny really, because Joe Browns actually ask your date of birth.

That's so they can send you a voucher on your birthday, nothing to do with age appropriateness of their clothing!

56
In the wardrobe / Re: would this/could this pattern for me be mutton dressed as lamb?
« on: July 13, 2023, 08:27:25 AM »
I love that look, arty & creative and totally appropriate. If you love it, make it and wear it with pride.  In the main, I don't think there is a thing such as age appropriate clothes (unless we are talking about the itty bitty clothes my late teen daughter wears).  It is confidence thing.  If you have the confidence, you can wear whatever you want and rock it.

57
Tech Know How / Re: Recommended books on pattern drafting?
« on: July 12, 2023, 11:43:40 AM »
Quote from: HenriettaMaria on July 12, 2023, 10:32:27 AM

* Taken accurate measurements with a measuring tape that is accurately calibrated (don't ask me how I know...)

Oh dear.  Have you fallen victim of the chinese measuring tape?  (I use a particular bra measuring system which decries measuring tapes from China due their incorrectness in sizing!)

58
Tech Know How / Re: Recommended books on pattern drafting?
« on: July 12, 2023, 10:27:47 AM »
I did C&G Pattern Cutting and used Helen Stanley's book.  The pictures are a bit dated but I found the format and guides to be easy to follow.  Everything is based on a size 12 which is "industry standard" (or it was when I did my course!) but it easy to insert your own measurements, which I did and do.

I go the Winifred book for children but I really didn't like this as much as the Helen Stanley book.

59
For Sale, Wanted & Free to a good home / Re: Kremke Soul Wool
« on: July 10, 2023, 09:52:22 AM »
Oh that is a shame and very annoying @sewmuchmore !

60
Patterns Discussion / Re: Self drafted wedding dress toille
« on: July 09, 2023, 22:55:07 PM »
Look forward to seeing the next version @Cate. Ps. You don’t need to line it for a toile.

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