Hi Annie,

Sorry I didn’t get chance to have a look the other day. From a distance it looked ok, but in the photos there’s something wrong with the arm scye it looks too tight, which is pulling the neck. Is the front neck edge on the CF? Although on the pattern photo the neck and arm syce looks like your photo.

I can’t remember did you do a FBA? The pattern doesn’t have a dart, but if you look the fabric is trying to make a dart, also the CF is rising up. If you did a FBA did you lengthen the CF. I think the skirt is a matter of preference.

If you bring the pattern to the next sewing meeting I’ll have a look.

Have a look at Pennine Outdoor https://www.pennineoutdoor.co.uk/

They have an excellent range, and are very helpful if you email them and tell them about the garment you want to make. They advised me when I was looking for a waterproof fabric and inner fleece for a dog coat.

Congratulations, a stunning dress.

Looks good 

I always find top stitching where both sides need to be perfect tricky. When I made the blouse I top stitched the outside and hand stitched the inside.

If I make it again, which I probably will, because I love the pattern, I will turn under the seam on the inside of the stand and top stitch that and then attach the outside. Then I’ll handstitch the inside collar, but it will still look top stitched. Well that’s the theory.

That’s a great shape and is very slimming. The arrow takes your eyes upward to the darker colour which is always slimming. Good choice of fabric.

Looks great. You’ve inspired me to have another look at this pattern.

I bought it a couple of years ago, together with 4 metres of chambray. In the end I made another Lynn Mizono pattern and a blouse.

@b15erk I love the contrast on the blouse, great idea.

You could try using the bodice from the sleeved version and cut away for the desired sleeveless armhole. However it could be gaping if the correct chest size hasn’t been used and a FBA done.

The FBA (SMB) adjustment isn’t difficult. Ignore the pin tuck/detail markings, but make sure that the bust point is marked. I believe it is on the pattern, if not, the top pin tuck points to the bust point, so use this as your line 2 of the FBA. Proceed with the FBA as normal. You may have to lower the bust point if that’s what you normally have to do. The pin tucks will now have moved. Redraw the middle pintuck along the waist line and the top pintuck pointing toward the bust point. Use the spacing on the side seam of the original pintucks, but depending on the FBA they will radiate wider, towards the CF. Then place the second pintuck mid way between the top pintuck and the waist pintuck. The fourth pintuck is equidistant from the waist and the fifth equidistant from the fourth. The waist dart is the longest and the top and bottom dart the shortest.

Now pin the front and back at the shoulders and side seams, and pin in your pintucks. The size of the pintucks are the same for all sizes. You may find the back is too short now, don’t worry at this stage. Check to make sure the CF meets your CF. Mine was a little out, so I cut down from the neck towards the bust point and straightened the CF. Fill in the resulting V with paper. Then redraw the pintucks. I used the same neck points, but found I had to angle slightly towards the CF so that the extra fullness pointed towards the bust point.

To remedy the back, cut along the lengthen/shorten line and adjust until the side seams are level.

Hope that helps