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Messages - Esme866

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At the beginning of September I finally achieved success with a Simplicity trouser pattern (many years unused in my stash) that produced the nicest fitting trousers I have owned in over 10 years. Finally, my sewing mojo seems to have returned.  I chose the pattern simply because the line drawings reminded me of my favorite trouser pattern from my youth, even though the sample pair on the oh-so-thin model is rather atrocious.  A couple of weeks later I came across this website for the first time and read about the SWAKOP competition. Though I have virtually no chance of completion, I want to throw my hat in just for the additional pressure inspiration. I NEED the clothing.

These are the patterns I intend to use:

Trousers:  Simplicity 9479 (Is something from the 90’s considered “vintage”?)
Jacket:      Simplicity 8697 (The new “oversized” style.)
Shirt:         Butterick 5997 (All standard 7” FBAs have been abysmal – hoping gathers will be the answer)
Coat:         Butterick 6423 (Love this design)

This is how I had to alter the trouser pattern:
•   Using “rock of eye” and a few basic dimensions, I redrew the back rise dramatically allowing for my aging bum and extending the fork in the process.
•   Cut a size 16 and graded out to a size 22 waist beginning at the upper hip.
•   Tapered the legs from the knee down.
•   Added a full front fly, pocket stays, and pocket facings.
•   Split the back waistband to add a “Daks”/tunneled band to disguise the elastic insert.

I completed an olive pair in a cotton/poly twill, fit is very good, but leg width is wider than I would prefer. Will need to redraft back rise and fork to narrow the legs for future trousers.

I have these kinds of alteration issues and improvements to look forward to with each pattern.

So my plan:

SET 1:       Over:  Jacket:  Taupe Wool/Silk tropical weight recently thrifted for $2.49 US for 3 yd piece.
            Over:  Shirt:     Taupe Cotton/Poly blend from stash
            Under: Trousers:  Olive Cotton/Poly twill - recent purchase $2/yd at “Wallyworld”.

SET 2:       Over:  Jacket:  Off white, black, olive micro boucle upholstery fabric from stash.
            Over:  Shirt:     Rust Poly/Rayon jacquard from stash.
            Under: Trousers:  Charcoal Cotton/Poly micro corduroy from stash.

SET 3:       Over:  Jacket:  Navy/Taupe/Olive Italian 100% wool - recent purchase from FFC
            Over:  Shirt:    Olive Cotton/Poly blend from stash
            Under: Trousers:  Black Cotton/Poly twill – yet to be determined.

WILDCARD:  Much needed Wool melton coat in rust with brown poly/rayon jacquard lining. 

I also recently ran across numerous yards of Asahi Bemberg and two generous pieces of silk at a local thrift store – All purchased for 50 cents or less per yard. I may work some of these in. There’s a purple Bemberg that would be a shame to use for a lining. Its fabulous!  This same thrift store had yards of tacky/shiny/glittery polyester tagged at $3/yard! Lucky me. (BTW - Anything listed as "stash" is a minimum of 10 years old!)

Now the work begins – along with everything else on my plate at the moment!

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