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Messages - BrendaP

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Happy birthday to you
Happy birthday to you
Happy birthday to you
Happy birthday dear @Lowena @Syrinx @Sewbee
Bonne anniversaire

 :VV: :VV: :VV:

Today... One thread per day / Re: jeudi 16 septembre
« on: Today at 10:02:28 »
Well I was bottom of the classs in la Francais and didn't get as far as taking the O-level because je ne comprend pas.  A shame really but I got off to a bad start with the old prune who taught us when I was 11.  I didn't like her and she didn't like me so it went downhill from there. :(

Bright and sunny here but a bit chilly.  At luchtime I'm going to look at a church hall with a view to changing the venue for the family history meetings, and then I'll go across to Rochester and get some suitable fabric for putting together my Boom swap blocks.

« on: Yesterday at 22:11:35 »
The gauge says "6 inches per inch worsted weight, 7 stitches per inch sport's weight", which I read literally and stocking stitched those numbers. Maybe I should make a bigger piece then measure a square inch then count.

A square inch isn't really enough to measure - it needs to be at least 2" x 2" and preferably 4" x 4"  and you need to cast on more stitches that that so that you are not measuring over the outside few stitches which can easily be distorted.  If your guage is 7 stitches per inch that's 28 inches per 4" so you need to measure over 28 stitches which means that you need to cast on about 34-36 stitches for your swatch - and if the pattern will be worked in the round you need that many stitches again or do the loopy back trick.

That's why I said in a previous posting that for socks it's hardly worth doing a swatch.  Just start knitting and by the time it's big enough to call it a tension swatch you will have a decent chink of sock already knitted.

@Esme866 My 201k went through 12 layers of denim on a trial, which is more than you would normally find in any garment construction.

Technical Help / Re: Vogue V1610 -SB Kimono
« on: Yesterday at 11:26:31 »
Would it look right if you used the contrast for the sleeves as well as the belt and front bands?

Today... One thread per day / Re: Wednesday 15th September
« on: Yesterday at 11:17:56 »

I'm off in a wee while to have my hair done.

My hairdress came to me this morning.  She went mobile after the lease on the shop expired a couple of years ago and the new landlord decided to change it, and the shop next door back to residential.  So now I'm coiffeured with nowhere to go.

After rain all day yesterday I've taken a chance and put some washing on the line, but I think I'm being a bit optimistic.

Next task is to rummage through stash to find soething to bind the sunflower hangings.

House Beautiful / Re: Recovering some pad things
« on: Yesterday at 11:06:33 »
If the existing covers are pleather I think that you would need to remove it first because the shiny surface will cause the new layer to move around.

A decent straight stitch vintage machine - Singer 201 are the best, but 99, 66 and 15 are good models too - will takle most things a domestic setting is likely to throw at it, and the vintage buttonholer attchments make excellent buttonholes.  The sort that have interchangeable cams in the make a variety of shaped and keyhole buttonholes.

« on: Yesterday at 09:48:47 »

The kit comes with 2.75 needles,which is a bit confusing as the booklet says the mid calf socks can be knitted with from the yarn and needles in the kit. The tension square asks for 3mm needles though and Brenda, indeed has a firmer knit than the 3.25 needles, however it is smaller than the required tension according to the pattern. How can I remedy this? 

The yarn I think is sports weight (is that aran?), or double knitting, certainly not 4ply, and the finished size should be women's medium. With size 4 shoe, I consider myself to have small feet. Do I?

Even more confusing it's written in k2p2 rib, but the gauge is in stocking stitch, which I intend to use. I shall definitely divide the wool into two, but as I only have one set of 5 pins will have to do one at a time. However I have found another set of 2.75 4 pins. so could have one roaming needle and knit the two simultaneouly. 

If the guage is in stocking stitch you should work any tension swatch in stocking stitch.

Also, as I mentioned in my previous post if the socks are to be knitted in the round then the tension swatch should be worked in the round - or a square where you knit across, *leave a loose loop of thread and knit across again.  Repeat from *   In that way you always have the front of the work facing you , as you do when knitting in the round.

This is necessary because many, probably most, people get a different tension when knitting than they do when purling.  Does your back and forth stocking stitch show 'rowing out'?  That's when the ridges go in pairs with a looser row and then a tighter row.  It's often the purl that's looser.

I've knit so many socks now that if I'm using 4 ply thickness of any brand and my favourite 2.25mm needles I don't bother with the tension swatch.  Hand knitted socks need to be snug fitting with a little bit of negative ease.  Try the socks on as you go.  If they are snug around your foot make them to the full foot length, if they are not so snug make the foot a bit shorter than yours to put the negative ease into the length.  Hand knitting is very flexible, even at the tighter than average guage needed for socks.

Sewing Machines / Re: Best sewing machine for dressmaking?
« on: September 14, 2021, 20:06:09 PM »
A decent buttonhole and a few utility stitches.  Zig-zag, triple zig-zag and blind hem are the only ones I seem to use, though if you don't have an overlocker an overedge or overcast stitch and the lightening zig-zag would be useful.  All the other fancy stitches are there because the machine can do those basics.

« on: September 14, 2021, 20:01:36 PM »

Tonight’s job is to wind the balls and knit my swatch.

A swatch that's big enough to measure properly is about half the size of a single sock - and needs to be knitted in the round if the sock pattern is in the round.  So why not just get stuck in and work a decent portion of the sock, measure it for guage and if it's OK then you have half a sock already completed.  0_0

« on: September 14, 2021, 00:19:53 AM »

The kit has 5 pins, 3mm by the looks of things, which I didn't use last time. I'm wondering whether that was because I needed 3.25 to get the correct gauge.  Is knitting with 5 like knitting on 3 but with fewer stitches per pins?  (52 to cast on.)

@classical retro
If your yarn is 4ply weight (fingering/sock) then unless you knit very tightly 3.25mm needles are much too big for socks.  They would be fine for knitting a 4 ply jumper or hat or whatever, but socks need to be at a much firmer tension/guage - unless you want them to wear through very quickly.

I am using 2.25 needles, 4 ply yarns and have cast on 64 stitches (cuff down) which I nearly always do.  I knit to a farly average tension and I know that they will fit my 5 - 5.5 UK size feet.

« on: September 13, 2021, 21:54:56 PM »
I've made a start.  The plan is to use turquoise (which is rather lighter and brighter than in the photo) in every  alternate stripe with different colours between.

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« on: September 13, 2021, 21:51:52 PM »
My yarn has arrived!!  Now what do I do with it?  I haven't had anything like this since the olden days!!  :scream: :thinking:

Do I wash it? Or use it as it is?  The most effort I usually put in is finding the end bit in the middle of the ball...


It's not usual to wash yarn unless it is obviously soiled.  Better wait and then wash the finished item; that will help smooth out any irregularities.

As for finding the end bit in the middle of the ball ...   :scream:
It's a hot topic, some people like to pull from the middle, others of us much refer to work from the outside.  The reasons why I don't like pulling from the middle is that it always gets to a point where the whole lot collapses and then I have to try and sort it whilst it's connected to the knitting, and more often than not fishing around for that end  results in a tangled birdsnest coming out rather than a single end. 

The only time I pull from the middle is if I'm rewinding using a winder, the ball jumps around less and pulling it all in one go means it gets further in before it collapses.  I usually only rewind if I'm trying to divide a large ball into two  so that I can work both socks at the same time.  If it's a patterned yarn I might rewind several times in order to find the colour repeat.  I do like my socks to be identical twins, not fraternal siblings.

Embroidery and Embellishment / Re: Sunflowers I, II, III and IV
« on: September 13, 2021, 09:08:25 AM »
Thank you for all the nice comments.   @Cazlyn Cas Holmes lives in Maidstone, with Mote Park as her back yard, and occasionally teaches at the Adult Ed centre there.  My friend and her daughter did a one day course with her and thoroughly enjoyed it.

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