So I have managed to get hold of this pattern sooner than expected, which is very exciting. I am making View C in a cheap grey and white striped seersucker.

The plan was to make it up in a size 12 following the pattern and instructions as printed, but I quickly decided that it would be better to do it 'properly'.

Firstly, there is way more ease in the pattern than the sample the model is wearing on the packet. Either she is in a smaller size or (I suspect more likely) it is clipped at the back to give her more definition at the waist. So even though I am technically a 10-14-12, I traced off a 6 and graded out to a 10 at the hips. The pattern also clearly states that there is no provision for above-waist length adjustment, but I went for it anyway, sacrificing some of the generous circumference from the short kimono sleeves in order to shorten it. I might have been better just taking up the shoulder seams, as it is a bit low-cut, but never mind. I may need to add a modesty panel.

I had a lot of trouble with the front band, because I had a bit of a brain fart over how it was going to end up and had to cut it again when the stripes didn't match... and then I still managed to match the stripes to the wrong side of the front and had to rip it out again mid-construction! 

I also had issues with seam finishing around the front twist. What I should have done is overlock all the edges around this bit before I started, so that is a lesson if I make it again.

Anyway, now that the front is all sorted, I have pin fitted and shaved a bit off the centre back seam at the back neck, where it was a bit gape-y so I just need to put the zip in, add some in-seam pockets and finish it off. Should hopefully finish this week, so pictures to follow soon!

So after a l-o-o-o-o-ng sewing hiatus I am jumping back in feet-first with a strapless Liberty-print dress. I'm thinking a fairly simple straight-across top with a big pleated skirt.

It's my first strapless dress and I'm going all-out on the foundations with a built in corselette including cut-and-sew foam cups, underwires and spiral steel boning.

I can't decide whether I want a ruffled petticoat underneath or if that will be too much!

This is my fabric:

Right. Next one.

Potential FBA - never done one before.

The lovely lady in question is a pattern size 16 according to her high bust, 20 according to her bust and 20-22 at the waist.

Is 16-almost 22 too much to grade out to? Would I be better off starting with an 18?

The matter is further complimented by not having seen her since she was a teenager and only having measurements to go off...

So I think I have foolishly very kindly volunteered to make all three of my friend's bridesmaids dresses!!

Fabric is an embroidered tulle over a cotton lawn so shouldn't cause too many issues. (She says confidently ) Fairly standard fitted bodice and pleated skirt. The only slightly complicated bit is that the neckline and sleeves are will be just the tulle layer so need to work that out, and also think about building in some support as we all agreed we are not fans of strapless bras. Wedding not until April, so technically plenty of time, although I do have an awful lot of projects which need to be finished by October...

I have said I will start by making my own, plus toiles for the other two girls and if it turns out time is getting tight by then we can outsource actual making up of those two using mine and the toiles for reference.

Because if I start a thread I might actually get them all done!!

I want some new summer tops that I can wear everyday for work, and out and about, on holiday etc. I want tops with sleeves as I feel uncomfortable at work in sleeveless tops (probably from growing up in the Middle East). I have a pile of different cotton lawns and I'm thinking basic round necked short-sleeved tee-shirt style tops that fasten with a zip at the back.

My plans so far:

1. a navy cotton lawn top with a grey polyester chiffon front yoke
2. a sea green cotton lawn top with Mondrian-style panels on the front (but all the same colour) outlined with flat piping
3. a dusky pink cotton lawn Pattern Magic chevron pleated top
4. a bias cut floral lawn top with cap sleeves (this one hopfully won't need a zip)

Then I'll see how much fabric is left and might do a couple more pieced together from my off cuts!

So I am going to a hen do next Saturday and it was dropped on us last week that we are required to wear a black dress for the evening...

Of course I decided that none of the six RTW black dresses I own was suitable, so I had to make one.

Being a rebel, I decided to make a culottes playsuit out of a piece of black silk dupion from my stash. I dyed a piece of white cotton lawn blue for the underlining (I later found a packet of hot pink dye, which would have been better, but it's too late now).

It has a sheer yoke of white dress net on the front, finished with bias binding. There are straps and an exposed zip on the back.

The cutting out was the tightest fit I've ever worked with, as the silk was quite narrow and the culottes are very full. I cut the underlining first on the fold, and then used those pieces to cut the silk in one layer.



The fabric was super fray-y so I just cut the fabric roughy and then trimmed down each piece as I got to it.

With my tight timeframe, I took a lot of shortcuts, whilst still trying to keep to couture techniques where I could. So I attached the fabric and underlining by machine, and I used a nice fusible cotton interfacing from my stash, instead of silk organza. I planned to just pink the seams, but unfortunately it was so fray-y that I had to bind them all. I did use purchased bias binding, though.

I hemmed the culottes with bias binding, and hand sititched it up. Half way through the massive circle, I wished I'd done a blind hem on the machine, but it's almost finished now and I'm very happy with it.

I also added an extra layer to the front bodice which I sewed a RTW bra into. The bra wings extend out beyond the fabric so that I can fasten it separately and it does the job of a waist stay, taking the weight off the fragile net yoke. Boyfriend pointed out that the bra wings are a horrible colour, so I have ordered some blue fabric paint to sort that out! I also accidently sewed the bra to the wrong side, so the darts are visible. And I didn't bother changing thread so there are lots of ugly black stitching lines on the inside of the bodice. I may handstitch in a bodice lining at a later date to sort this out, but I don't have time before Saturday, and realistically I probably won't bother... I may add some dress shields before the weekend if I get time.

I will finish the hem and get a photo up this evening.

I have one of those discs of 25m of bias binding, of which I estimate I have already used 5-10m. So 15-20m left give or take. Is this enough to hong kong finish all my seams in a circle skirt dress, bind the neckline, face the front and back and hem my circle skirt? Dress quite short but it's actually a culottes playsuit, so a little bit more hem. Seams would all be pressed open, so bound on both sides. It looks like plently, but I always seem to underestimate on bias binding!

I'm on quite a tight deadline so if I need more I have to get it ordered, can't just wait and see.