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Messages - Ryomaden

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1
Courses & Classes / Re: Bluprint (was Craftsy) to close
« on: May 30, 2020, 11:09:34 AM »
I am quite miffed about this, plus the fact that with my membership lapse (last week) my credits have disappeared. I will use the video downloadhelper chrome extension to grab what I still have access to.

2
I saw this & I thought you may be interested! / Re: Inside the Factory
« on: September 16, 2019, 11:04:51 AM »
Just watched this, I was laughing at the start when Greg described the cotton rolls (weighing 160kg) as the equivalent weight of 'two Greg Wallace's'.... Come on Greg, 80kg?  :S I think you may be fibbing  :D

3
For Sale, Wanted & Free to a good home / For Sale Singer Promise 1409
« on: September 16, 2019, 10:39:56 AM »
I can't take my machine to Japan so I thought I would offer it on here if anyone is looking for a starter / beginner machine.
It's a singer 1409 and is very good condition, comes with some extra feet and a pack of new needles.
Weighs around 5kg and is boxed so can post at cost but pick up in Twickenham is preferred.
I have no idea about pricing so is £40 about right?

Quote
The Singer 1409 is ideal for the beginner, boasting easy-to-follow instructions, a lightweight portable design and convenient accessory storage. The 1409 comes complete with 9 built-in stitches, including 6 basic stitches, 2 decorative stitches and a 4-step buttonhole.

Snap-on presser feet, heavy duty metal frame and adjustable tension.

Model number 1409 AR.

Motorised 70 watts.
2 needle positions.
Automatic bobbin winding.
4-step buttonhole.
Zipper insertion.
Twin needle capability.
Push lever reverse.
Stitch pattern indicator.
Stitch length control.
Stitch width control.
https://www.argos.co.uk/product/4601278





5
The Haberdashery / Re: Recommend me a thread
« on: June 10, 2019, 11:39:17 AM »
Thanks Brenda, sorry I was a bit cryptic with the question! Yes I mean for final sewing of shirts on a machine.

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The Haberdashery / Recommend me a thread
« on: June 10, 2019, 08:58:05 AM »
As per the title I am looking for some white thread to use with my first shirt. Anything in particular I should look for? :thread:

7
Publications / Re: Mens shirts
« on: June 06, 2019, 15:25:11 PM »
Oooooh, if I could read Japanese, I would be sorely tempted.  I am interested in what you have in your collection on sewing for men.  I enjoy the craftpersonship involved but only have a few books dedicated to menswear.  I am hankering to start sewing men's shirts again (and have the requisite David Coffin books as well as an old Singer sewing for men that has everything from shirts to jackets).  It's been a couple of years and BH has lost so much weight that I would like to revisit a more tailored shirt than McCalls 2447.
To be honest I haven't found anything decent apart from the David Coffin books and Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich. Then this arrived from Amazon.jp and now I have a few others on my list (all Japanese though)
There is a French version of this book if it makes it any easier for you.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/chemises-Ryuichiro-Shimazaki/dp/2756510629/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=les+chemise&qid=1559830493&s=books&sr=1-3
I also happened upon this very nice blog which reviews the book.
http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2013/10/07/book-review-book-of-mens-shirts/
She also has a lot of common terms in a sort of translation dictionary
http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/japanese-sewing-terminology-a-list-of-translated-terms/
And how to read a Japanese pattern.
http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/2012/01/17/understanding-a-typical-japanese-sewing-pattern/

Here is the other Japanese ones I added to my wishlist.
Coats
More shirts
Professional clothing
All seasons mens clothing
I'm sure there will be more to add once I get started making the first one!

8
Publications / Re: Mens shirts
« on: June 06, 2019, 14:23:22 PM »
Funny how the titles are in english but the text in Japanese!
I never noticed it until you mentioned it  0_0  but they also have Japanese titles before the English in [brackets]
Interestingly (or maybe not so interesting...  :D) most of the titles are in katakana (the alphabet for loanwords) presumably because there is no native Japanese words for them. For example, Armhole - アームホール (a-muho-ru) Pocket - ポケット (poketto) or my personal favourite, Pleat - プリート (puri-to) :P

9
Publications / Mens shirts
« on: June 06, 2019, 10:32:19 AM »
In my continuing quest for mens sewing literature this little gem arrived today. It's a Japanese book : 男のシアツの本 (otoko no shiatsu no hon) roughly translated as 'Book of Mens shirt'. It has 19 designs in total and includes patterns  :D
It's beautifully printed and very tactile. I have been struggling to find a pattern I liked up to now so I am pleased that I can go ahead with one of these. I paid ¥1200 about £9! bargain.




10
Hi, I'm new... / Re: Hello
« on: June 06, 2019, 01:01:43 AM »
Hello @Ryomaden
I love Japan (the contrasts between traditional and high tech)  :loveit: so I’m a tad envious of you going to live there.
Is your wife Japanese?
Whereabouts in Japan will you be moving to? (Sorry, I’m just naturally very nosy :|)

Can’t help you with your sewing as I’m a newby myself but you will find lots of great support on this site from some very experienced sewists.
Yes she is and I am in Hokkaido which is the northernmost island. It's nice weather here in summer (not too hot compared to the south) but the winters are really harsh.

11
Technical Help / Re: Changing size within a pattern
« on: May 04, 2019, 19:10:57 PM »
 :D I can't see it fitting me but great information all the same so thank you all.

I am making a toile but I am having real trouble pinning the princess seam sides to the front. The pattern said to staystitch the front panel and also ease stitch the front between notches however I am finding that the side section has all the extra fabric when I am pinning it. As I see it the ease stitch is doing nothing so I am wondering if I have cut it wrong?
I rechecked against the pattern and it looks right.

12
Technical Help / Re: Changing size within a pattern
« on: May 02, 2019, 12:10:58 PM »
Firstly I would assess why you need to do so, in order to work out what the best approach is. My guess is a small bust and larger waist/hips?


Yes this is exactly what I meant, bust size is 6 while waist and hips come in at 10, according to the body measurement section on the envelope.
I just read a tutorial for SBA and it looks quite straightforward, thank you for the suggestion.
I am a bit confused with with where to make the marks for the grading from 8 to 10 though... :|
would I take a line from the bust point circle out to the cut line and that would be the starting point then do the same at the waistline for the finish point?

Edit.. if I do a SBA then I don't need to grade from 8 to 10 is that correct? I could cut everything for 10 then adjust?

13
Technical Help / Re: Changing size within a pattern
« on: May 02, 2019, 09:43:43 AM »

14
Technical Help / Changing size within a pattern
« on: May 02, 2019, 09:37:40 AM »
I have my first pattern (Mccalls M7464) but I want to make it in size 6 at the bust and 10 elsewhere, is there a technique for this?

15
Hi, I'm new... / Re: Hello
« on: May 01, 2019, 22:00:25 PM »
Thanks everyone  :toast:
Welcome to TSP @Ryomaden
DPC's book is good.  But he also has a class on Blueprint (used to Craftsy) called
Shirtmaking Details, Beyond the Basics
This makes it much clearer 

I had a look at bluprint, I think I will sign up for the free trial and watch his videos. Thanks.

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