The Sewing Place

Pauline Alice Quart Coat

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #30 on: February 21, 2020, 12:15:15 PM »
It sounds like you're doing all the right things, Jessie, so keep at it.  There's always a lot of work in a garment like this, especially when you're learning lots of new stuff, but that's the fun of it.  And the great sense of achievement when you've finished it and got a lovely coat to wear.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #31 on: February 24, 2020, 10:06:08 AM »
Well, the weekend went, as usual, far quicker than the weekdays ever do!  I feel as if I put a lot of effort into this, but so far with little to show.

For the most part, I've been caught up with the back and shoulder area - pad stitching takes so long!!  I see now why it would be useful to thread several needles before starting.  Shoulder pads are also made and shaped - I like them better than what I have previously bought.

The fabric is of the very devil, and I'm so glad that I used a fine iron on interfacing to help with the stability.  I'm also overlocking the edges.

One worry atm, is shrinkage.  I thought this fabric was some sort of man-made stuff, so I happily used the steam freely.  But, the pleat pieces seem to have shrunk, and if they've shrunk, so will the other pieces.  Not much I can do about it now... I'm going to cut a square of fabric, trace it, and them steam it well, that should give me some idea of the shrinkage - if any.  It may just be my poor cutting out...

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

Ohsewsimple

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #32 on: February 24, 2020, 12:34:53 PM »
@b15erk is it the fabric or have you used any canvas or interfacing that might shrink?   Always a good idea to pre shrink that as well.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #33 on: February 24, 2020, 13:08:33 PM »
@Ohsewsimple , I think it's the fabric, because on the pleated pieces, I haven't used any canvas, just fine non-woven interfacing.

I was going to try to get into town later, for more interfacing, after the rain stopped me on Friday, but it's just as wet and even colder today...  :(

Plenty more prep I can do... :S

Jessie



Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #34 on: February 24, 2020, 16:11:00 PM »
Before you commit yourself to the full garment, do your shrinkage test.  You can then decide whether to proceed as a wearable garment, that may not be wearable for too long due to the fragility of the fabric, or to use it as your sample garment for all the techniques that you can use when you make your next version.  It's really useful to have a sample garment along with a few notes for each technique that you can refer to in future projects. You also don't have to beat yourself up if something doesn't go quite to plan and you have to make one compromise too many.  I have a couple of sample jackets that I made from when I did a speed tailoring course and a traditional tailoring course and still refer to them now.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #35 on: February 26, 2020, 09:06:59 AM »
I managed to do some work on this last night, and I'll be ready to start construction soon - at least by weekend. I've been a bit delayed as I needed more interfacing, which meant a trip into town - and one I've put off since Friday.

I pressed all the lining pieces, stabilised the hems and overlocked all the pieces.  It's a very fluid satin fabric, and frays nearly as badly as the main fabric.  :S

I'll do my shrink test today - spare fabric is here, in work, so it will be done later.

Jessie



Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #36 on: February 26, 2020, 12:03:45 PM »
Fingers crossed for the shrink test.

b15erk

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #37 on: February 26, 2020, 14:57:59 PM »
 :'( :'( :'(

I don't believe it!  Look at the shrinkage on that! :S

That's on a four inch (10cms) square of fabric, and the fabric was cut to fit the square.

Good job I was resigned to doing this as a test garment.  I'll have to try to press without steam in future, just to get it finished.  :'( :'( :'(

I've never had this happen before... :'( :'( :'(
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.

StitchinTime

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #38 on: February 26, 2020, 15:12:20 PM »
I'll have to try to press without steam in future, just to get it finished.

Oh no, that's not good. You'll also have to remember not to sit next to a radiator in it if it gets wet  :(
« Last Edit: February 26, 2020, 16:44:06 PM by StitchinTime »

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #39 on: February 26, 2020, 15:34:19 PM »
Wow! Time to focus on techniques and choosing something gorgeous for the real thing. Strike whilst the iron is hot  :ninja: and the methods are fresh in your mind.

Missie

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #40 on: February 26, 2020, 15:39:10 PM »
@b15erk  I made a coat for a college course and my tutor advised that for all coat fabrics to give them a good steaming before cutting out in case they shrank. You have just reminded me of this.
A measly 2.5m of stash used so far!

Elnnina

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #41 on: February 26, 2020, 18:03:41 PM »
Jessie I was also taught to pre-shrink any woollen fabric first using a wet cloth and at that time a hot iron (not a steam iron as they were not around then) and it works, but it does take a lot of time handling the yardage used for a coat on a domestic ironing board - also the wool gives off a strange smell.  Nowadays I would use a piece of sheeting and a hot iron and have a bowl of water alongside in order to keep on putting the piece of sheeting in - it is surprising just how quickly it dries out.  Then once the length of fabric has been treated, leave it to get totally dry before trying to cut it out.

UttaRetch

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #42 on: February 26, 2020, 18:45:38 PM »
I still have hopes of making a new winter coat and I am now thinking of boiled wool.  Would I still have to preshrink that?
What goes around comes around.

dolcevita

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #43 on: February 26, 2020, 18:56:53 PM »
I still have hopes of making a new winter coat and I am now thinking of boiled wool.  Would I still have to preshrink that?
For the boiled wool jacket I made recently, I chucked the fabric into the washing machine and did a cool wool wash before drying and then cutting the pieces.  It didn't come to any noticeable harm.  If you use a strong colour, though, it's worth checking how colour fast it is before washing the whole thing. 

UttaRetch

Re: Pauline Alice Quart Coat
« Reply #44 on: February 26, 2020, 18:59:44 PM »
Nope, I don't prewash.  The most I might consider is drycleaning, BUT nothing I have ever made has subsequently shrunk in the wash.
What goes around comes around.