Hmmmm....wish I'd got some pictures to illustrate better how it's done.
The unpicking takes longer than replacing, although you don't need to unpick the whole garment.
You need to unpick whatever's needed to get the old zip out, and not much more than that.
As you unpick the zip you'll probably see how it's been done so you'll know how to get it back together again...
maybe. Use the original stitch lines as a guide of where you are positioning your replacement zip.
The very bottom of the zip can be really awful to unpick. Usually a very tightly stitched bar-tack with miniscule stitches. I'm surprised I haven't made a hole unpicking that bit.
The first side to get in is the (easy) underneath bit. I never worry if my zip's a bit long. Just chop it off and tuck it up inside the waistband. Don't position the zip too low. It makes sewing the top-stitching awkward at the bottom when you get to that part.
Then I fasten the waistband and the zip to get the overlapped side in place. Pin it from the outside to get it in the position it needs to be in....then transfer your pinning to get the zip pinned onto the single layer of the facing. This often doesn't follow the original stitching lines.
Stitch it in place...probably with two rows of stitching. Then you should be ready to do your visible row (sometimes two rows) of top-stitching to hold the facing piece flat. Remember to fold the inside underlap/facing (from the other side of the zip) out of your way so you don't catch it.
Lastly, there's going to be something needs doing at the very bottom of the zip. Varies between trouser styles. Often a bar-tack. Sometimes top-stitching and a bar-tack...whatever you unpicked, you just put back. Remember to lay the underlap/facing bit flat to catch that in to hold it down too.
And finally...a bar-tack to hold the underlap/facing to the bottom edge of the top-stitched sides facing.
Ooooh...I've just read that through and I understand what I'm waffling on about. I do apologise if (ha, ha if?!) it doesn't make sense to anyone else.
There must be some youtube tutorial to show you clearly how it's done?
I really wish I'd got some pictures for you. I find it difficult to write clearly what I mean and make sense. I must try to remember to show you how it's done some day.
I promise you it's not that bad a job. It was one of the first jobs I was ever taught when I left school and worked in an alterations shop.
Sandra.
xxx
This reply has taken me ages. I've added bits and deleted other bits and it still isn't very clear.
I'm going to write myself a note to remember to show you how it's done when/if I ever get any work.
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