Butterick 6729 - Issues with the Pattern

[eluceo]

Just a quick public service announcement should any one be interested in making up Butterick 6729 as the sleeveless dress.

The pattern is drafted for sleeves.  There is neither a different bodice pattern piece nor cutting line for the sleeveless verstion.   I made a mockup of this pattern for a sleeveless dress and  wow are the armholes too big and low for the sleeveless version.     I had to piece in about an inch on both the back and front pattern pieces.  Fortunately, I had just traced off and mocked up a 60s Vogue which provided a sleeved and sleeveless version with perfect sleeveless armholes when made.        

So word of caution - definitely do a mock up or use the armhole off of a TNT sleeveless pattern.

[Ohsewsimple]

It is often the case nowadays and annoys the hell out of me.  I used to get my students to redraft the pattern.  But if you don’t know that you would end up with a useless garment

[UttaRetch]

Thanks for the warning @eluceo, although I don't wear sleeveless garments.  Odd that there should be no indication on the pattern tissue between the sleeved and sleeveless.  Out of curiosity, I would let Butterick know and see what it says.

Look forward to seeing the finished dress.

[Ohsewsimple]

It’s quite normal nowadays @UttaRetch.  Most of the patterns I’ve seen like this use the same pattern piece.  Poor drafting or poor understanding. 

[UttaRetch]

I think maybe the pattern companies are going back to the old days when knowledge was assumed.

[Ohsewsimple]

I think maybe the pattern companies are going back to the old days when knowledge was assumed.

I know some years ago there was a shortage of decent pattern cutters as my tutor had been approached several times by various people.  She was brilliant at drafting and there wasn’t much she couldn’t work out.  So personally I think it’s a lack of skill at the companies.  Someone buying a pattern shouldn’t have to alter it to use it.  You should be able to cut a pattern knowing that it works and is the style advertised.  You don’t expect to buy a jacket pattern to then find you have to add a button stand. 

[UttaRetch]

I think it’s a lack of skill at the companies.  Someone buying a pattern shouldn’t have to alter it to use it. ... You don’t expect to buy a jacket pattern to then find you have to add a button stand.

Points taken.  Anyone who doesn't even recognise that something is wrong, will have an unsatisfactory outcome.

[Ploshkin]

Ive come across patterns recently with the sleeve head the same shape at the back and front and they weren't patterns graded as 'easy' which often equates to lack of shape.

[eluceo]

@Ohsewsimple I agree that it happens more frequently than previously.    Though if you do not have drafting skills a person might think it was user error or choosing the wrong size. 

@UttaRetch I do not think the pattern companies are going back to knowledge assumed because most of my vintage patterns have different bodices or cutting lines for a sleeveless bodice.  I think it is a cost cutting measure.  Less to print = cheaper printing = more profits. 

@Ploshkin  Oh no.  I too have run across those sleeve heads frequently.  It is very frustrating.

[Kwaaked]

I think maybe the pattern companies are going back to the old days when knowledge was assumed.

All of this is before the acquisition of the new company, and between McCalls Co and CSS Industries information, so it MAY be outdated.  (I also have no bought a pattern since they sold it.)

They hire right out of college pattern makers frequently who need the experience since they have none or minimal in the industry, and pattern making isn't always as through as it should be in college.  (Or it used to be, I haven't been in the headhunting stage for a while now.) 

Walk a pattern sometime from any of the big 4.  It's scary how bad they actually are.  Last one I used, the notches didn't line up, the dart didn't hit the bust point (I had to raise them for a size 18 something like half an inch, and my girls aren't as perky as they used to be), the front and back were off 1/8" or so...all things that have to be corrected before you can sew.

Armholes...well, RTW gets away with crappy ones, so they think no one knows how clothes are supposed to fit now, and often, they are absolutely correct.  I hit a point where I have a draft for my own armscye and sleeve cap and completely ignore theirs.

[Ohsewsimple]

Oh for the days when patterns were well drafted and full of info.  I’ve held onto a lot of my patterns from the 70's.  I used them in teaching and there was such a huge difference. 

I was looking for inspiration for a top but found a Simplicity pattern in my drawer for a knit top with pleats on one shoulder.  I thought I’d put my own pattern up against it to check.  Smallest size was 18.  I am far from skinny and need extra width at the bottom.  But I found that this had around 6” more each side compared to my own pattern which is not close.  So roughly 24 extra inches round!   I dread to think where the neck would have ended up.....round my arms?   Pattern was folded up, replaced in drawer.  I couldn’t even be bothered to draft the pleated shoulder onto my own pattern.  I drafted a cowl neck with flared sleeves instead.  I will look at that pattern again when I feel in a better mood. 

[UttaRetch]

@Ohsewsimple, that is insane.

[eluceo]

Walk a pattern sometime from any of the big 4.  It's scary how bad they actually are.  Last one I used, the notches didn't line up, the dart didn't hit the bust point (I had to raise them for a size 18 something like half an inch, and my girls aren't as perky as they used to be), the front and back were off 1/8" or so...all things that have to be corrected before you can sew.

 

Agreed.  Walking a recent pattern from the big 4 can be enlightening or scary - one of the two not sure which.  My experience is that it is unusual to find notches that match.  There have been cases where there is a notch on a pattern piece that does not match anything. 

I am just lucky that I am not learning to sew now with these types of errors.  Knowing me, I would be sure that the errors were solely mine rather than that of the pattern company.

@Ohsewsimple  - how very annoying.  You did the smart thing - fold up that pattern and put it away. 

[sewingj]

I`m really sorry to be reading all of this.  I pretty much learnt to sew just from making up patterns from the big four (back in the 70s) and don`t remember encountering any mistakes.  I don`t think I would have persevered if I had

[Ohsewsimple]

Does anyone watch Islander Sewing Systems Tuesday at Two with Janet Pray on Facebook?  She does an interesting 30 or 40 minutes of various things and answering questions on the topic of the day.  This week she was talking about sleeves and how bad so many indie pattern companies are.  She wouldn’t name any but many are very popular.  It was interesting although no surprise to me.  She also told you how to check indie companies before buying.  Again it was something i have always suggested doing.