Tweaking a pattern

[Diane]

If i want to add some extra width around the hips on a pattern for a top, do i just adjust the front or do i have to adjust the back as well?

[Acorn]

It depends on where your extra width is.  If you just want a looser fit, you need to alter both.  If you're allowing extra for a tummy or bottom, then you might well add to just the front or back, but you would want to do a toile, because it isn't as straightforward as adding to both and you would need to see how the top was going to hang.

[Diane]

Thanks @Acorn I was just after a looser fit so i thought if i add an extra 2" to the front and the same at the back it should be ok.

[Ouryve]

It would be simplest to grade up to a bigger size at the hip, particularly if you're only needed a couple of inches.


https://www.cashmerette.com/pages/grading-between-sizes

[Diane]

@Ouryve Thanks for that, it makes complete sense now, i can keep the top half as is and just cut the pattern out to the next size up at the hip.

[Ohsewsimple]

@Diane an extra 2” should be fine adding just at the hips.  Any more and the garment hang can be distorted.  Then it’s better to cut larger too and bottom and use darts to remove excess where needed. 

[Diane]

What i will do is make my adjustment to the hip and once i've sewn it, i'll hang up and then see if there's a difference in the hem length where i added some extra. If there is, hopefully i'll be able to level it up

[Ohsewsimple]

@Diane adding width shouldn’t affect length.  How are you adding width?

[Diane]

I’m planning to add it in like this lady shows in the video. By doing this it spreads the additional fabric throughout the front instead of lumping it all on the side.

https://youtu.be/WQj7-OKzpw8

[Ohsewsimple]

Oh ok.  That will give extra length at the centre front which you would need if your tummy was protruding.  If it was the CF would ride up.  Adding length would solve this.  But if your tummy isn’t and the width is needed at the hip/ sides then it probably isn’t the right alteration. 

[Diane]

oh gosh i'm completely lost  i do have a bit of a tum  maybe i should just make it as it is and add some side spits in it so it isn't as tight around the hip area  i'll have a think before i cut into the fabric. I'm going to have a rummage through my patterns tomorrow to see if there's anything else that's suitable.

[Ouryve]

If it is simply a matter of you being a bit pear shaped, then grading between sizes as you trace the pattern is your simplest starting point. If something flares at the hip, I often grade down just for the hip so it doesn't look like a lampshade on me. If something is nipped in at the waist, I un-nip it a little, as I don't have one. Small changes like these rarely affect the integrity of the garment design.

[Ohsewsimple]

I agree with @Ouryve use the simple method and just grade between sizes.  Don’t make it too complicated.  A bit of a tum isn’t really worth the effort of  trying this alteration. 
Side spits won’t make it fit any better.  If the garment is too tight/close then the splits will just pull apart and be obvious. They are a very useful feature for folks  like me who need extra room to sit down but don’t want a lot of baginess when standing.  But that’s getting into a whole further discussion on fitting! 

If you have a pattern you like then use it and just adjust to suit.  A tape measure is your best friend.  Measure measure measure yourself and then measure  the pattern.  The amount of ease added onto your measurements will depend  on your sizing, style of garment, designers vision etc.  but minimum 2” round hips.