Thanks everyone!
@Catllar I wondered about a forward shoulder adjustment but the seam sit fine on my shoulder, I will try moving the sleeve just to see though.
@Ouryve she was right there is hardly any gathering in the sleeve head even though they say to run gathering lines between the notches.
I actually think the sleeve itself is the main part of the problem, I've compared it to a Style Arc sleeve on a pattern I have made and the sleevehead is very shallow on this one. I have also compared the bodices of same pattern and the armscye is much deeper on the Nina Lee. Seems odd, I haven't measured opening on either for comparison yet.
The sleeve and bodice matched from side seam to notches.
I was trying it with the ties done up as you do them before the sleeve
@b15erk, and it sat nicely which I felt was a good sign........
@realale I have square shoulders and did an adjustment prior to cutting out. I raised the side seam by the same amount as the shoulder which has always worked in the past.
I definitely need the shoulder adjustment as I am very narrow shouldered
@Surest1tch. I wonder if I should try (on a toile) shifting the top half of the bodice in but retain the neck bit as it seems to be okay. I watched a You Tube video just as a refresher yesterday before I posted.
I'm going to try on dress later and take note of differences between the 2 shoulders as I have left the original one stitched in place.
In the meantime I'm going to take some measurments and trace off the pattern pieces and fiddle before cutting out a toile in some other fabric.
The drag lines are like those on the patterned dress
@BrendaP (right sleeve as you look at picture) and start about half way up the front bodice. I'll try on dress and leave ties undone to see how the neck end lies. My fabric is patterned so not so easy to see.
I'll come back with first findings but the rest could take me a bit longer. I think a toile of the top and sleeve are called for. Just as well I have some other viscose fabric that I'm not so keen on!