Making a T-shirt - my 2023 goal. Where to begin :)

[LeilaMay]

Setting goals for next year well in advance . . .

I would like to be able to make T-shirts. Straight, up and down, for a man, extra extra long.
My OH never seems to be able to find what he wants in the colours he wants, and he hates that so many that describe themselves as long do not come down far enough to keep your back warm when you're 6'6" and bending over gardening!

I do not have either an overlocker or a coverstitch machine, but my vintage Bernina will sew stretch jersey according to the booklet, so I have hope.

First thing - I have no idea what exactly the fabric for a t-shirt is described as online - advice appreciated.
Second - there must be some tutorials or links for folks to sew items like this on vintage machines, I'd appreciate any links folks might know or use themselves.

And then anything helpful you might like to say LOL

With thanks and fingers crossed for my 2023 goal
Leila

[Bodgeitandscarper]

Cotton Jersey is what you're looking for - but get samples if you can as some is so thin!

I hate to say this, but an overlocker is just amazing for sewing jersey and other stretch fabrics,  and a coverstitch is amazing for hems.

[Vezelay]

I sewed stretch fabric a lot on my sewing machine before I invested in overlocker etc. A walking foot and stretch needle were my essential go-to's, still are. Slight zig zag for seams, twin stretch needle for hems, twin needle or zigzag for topstitching neckband. Overlockers are great but you can get great results without them - just not neat insides.

I've made jersey jackets for DH but he can buy his tees dirt cheap in Tesco so I don't bother making them.
 

[Morgan]

If you are after tips, my offering of a few suggestions -

1.  Use Stretch needles.  Don't bother with ballpoint or jersey needles because a stretch needle is a more advanced version of ballpoint needle. 
The ballpoint  needle was modified to create a stretch needle that cradles the thread better and reduces cling and drag on the needle from stretchy fabrics.
They can be used with any stretch or knit fabric and are always recommended for sewing anything that contains elastane (elastics, lycra, spandex etc)
Mostly I use a size 12/80 Stretch needle rather than a 14/90 although I do use the latter on heavier,  thicker stretch /knit fabrics)

2.  On your machine have a play and practice on some different types of Jersey and stretch fabrics to see which stitches and settings work for you and the fabric.  Also take a look at how to cut and attach  round neck and Vneck bands to the neck of T shirts. 
Have a play without any pressure   
YouTube & Google are your friends on this adventure. 

3.  From a charity shop  collect some Tshirts made from different fabrics.  They don't need to be nice  Tshirts.  You're going to cut them up and use them for your practice sewing and stitch sampling. 
Look for set in sleeves, raglan sleeves, round neck, V neck, placket+collar etc.   See which  styles DH may like and take a look at how they're made.

4.  Find a pattern you like to start out with and check the fit.  For the first couple of test T shirts, you can always make them as Pyjama tops. 

Finally, adding length to your Tshirt  pattern for a long torso is easy.  Also, my DS2 has a long body and for casual wear likes a rugby shirt style where the back is usually a little longer than the front and there are side splits

Hope you enjoy yourself

[LeilaMay]

This is all great, thank you very much.

[Ouryve]

Not much I can add. I made my first stretch items without an overlocker and still use my regular machine in tandem with the overlocker, even if it is slower.


You don’t need to finish seams in jersey but they do tend to roll up and feel lumpy, if you don’t.

[SewRuthieSews]

Two thoughts here

1. I remember @realale mentioning lengthening T shirts for her very tall son, this may be an easier option than making them from scratch. I've not done this but maybe she can give you tips.

2. Classic T shirt fabric is not really very stretchy, and it can be difficult to get the neckline to look nice, but if you follow Morgan's advice and make lots of samples you'll get the feel for it. The usual rule is for the neck band length to only be 85% of the neck edge length.

(Not helpful is that because I sew lots of knits I got an overlocker and then later a coverstitch for hems and I love them, I do sew first on the normal machine)

[realale]

Two thoughts here

1. I remember @realale mentioning lengthening T shirts for her very tall son, this may be an easier option than making them from scratch. I've not done this but maybe she can give you tips.

I either use another t-shirt or spare fabric and just add it to the bottom/hem of the one I want to lengthen. I have to add 8" to my son's to just make it a normal length for him. I use my sewing machine, stretch needle and slight zig zag stitch. I attach the top of the bottom bit to the underside stitching line of the  T-shirt so the finished edge of the main t-shirt hangs over the donor bit. They're mostly for work so don't have much finesse!! 
 Most of his t-shirts have a printed something on the front so I can't slice them in the middle and insert a contrast (or blending!!) band but that is another option.
I have made him t-shirts but he likes to buy with printed sayings on them ( his favourite is a black one with a picture of the grim reaper which says "I put the fun in funeral"  ). Mother's plain boring offerings are usually unworn!!  hence lengthening his.
Hope this gives you more ideas.

[HenriettaMaria]

Tape the shoulder seams - keeps them in shape.

I found this video very useful for the neckline

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/sewing-with-knits/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits

[SewRuthieSews]

Here's a free men's t shirt pattern.
I've not tried it, and its only one size, but if this is near your size it might be worth a go

https://mellysews.com/mens-t-shirt-pattern/

[LeilaMay]

I am really appreciating all the input, thank you

[Celia]

Jalie do some very good mens patterns and free video tutorials too. https://jalie.com/blogs/jalie-sewing-tutorials/2918-v-neck-t-shirt-video

[So Chic]

I've made T-shirts for my OH and he's always found something not quite right with them so he now buys the Lower East brand from Amazon which he says are ideal for him, however, he's happy with the pyjama trousers I made.

[BrendaP]

There is already lots of excellent advice on here.

Without an overlocker you won't get the same inside finish as you get with RTW.  The closest will probably be to use a very narrow zig-zag for the seams and then finish both seam allowances together using the overcast stitch on your Bernina so that the inner edge of the overcast is just outside of the zig-zag.  Experiment to see whethr you get a better finish by overcasting and then trimming, or trim to a quarter inch seam allowance and allow the overcasting to run just off the edge of the fabric.

Stretchy fabric is always cut so that the maximum stretch goes around the body.  Cotton jersey isn't usually overly stretchy, especially in the lengthways direction so there shouldn't be any problems using the above combination of stitches.  If you choose a set-in sleeve design the only horizontal seams are the shoulder seams, which should be taped anyway to prevent stretch, and the very top and bottom of the sleeves but they are not areas which don't get a lot of stretch if the garment fits and anyway they are only short bits of seam.

Use a twin needle to topstitch the body and sleeve hems.

For the neckband look at how RTW tee shirts are constructed; a common way is to fold the band in half and then overlock three thicknesses together.  Use the narrow zig-zag for that, with or without the additional overcast finishing, press the seam allowance down towards the body and then topstitch with the twin needle to hold the seam allowance in place.

[Puzzler]

Another free men’s t-shirt pattern. https://doitbetteryourself.club/products/anything-but-basic-mens-tee