The Sewing Place

18" Ball gown- confusing instructions

WendyW

18" Ball gown- confusing instructions
« on: November 12, 2022, 06:46:08 AM »
I'm making a "To the Ball" gown, by Renee Adams, from Dollhouse Designs. I'm having trouble with the instructions. Two parts seem to be in conflict with each other. If anyone has made this gown, I would really appreciate your input. I'll post the parts that I'm having trouble with. Please tell me if this sounds correct to you or if someone messed up.

This is a strapless gown (with invisible elastic straps) that the bodice consists of 5 sections with a corset-type construction. Up to this point, the sections are assembled along their sides, and the outer fabric and lining have been sewn together along the top edge, turned, pressed, and understitched. Top edge is totally done. The next step is this:

Turn lining inside out again, and stitch entire bottom edge, RST. Trim seam and turn right side out through one end. Use turning tool to get into curves and points. Press from lining side.

The picture that accompanies this step only shows the top edge of the bodice.

Sounds simple enough. I was surprised by this step as I expected to attach the skirt before stitching down the lining, but there is so much bulk in the very full skirt that I assumed the bodice would be attached over the top of the skirt to give it a neater look. I did exactly as these instructions above said. Then I got curious about how they would attach the skirt and read ahead. Reading down through it all, there are several places where bodice detailing is attached that say "keeping lining fabric free" while doing that step. Not possible if sewn as above said. Further down is this:

"Press under bottom edge of Bodice lining 1/4 inch to inside. Fold Center Front point as shown, folding the point inside, then each side. Use a lot of pins to hold lining in place. Begin to slipstitch lining over waist seam, catching only threads in the seam allowance. The stitches should not poke through skirt fabric, nor be visible from the front of garment. Knot securely."

The pictures here show exactly what I would expect to see- attaching a skirt with the lining open.

Did I misinterpret the first part? If it doesn't mean to sew down the bottom of the lining, what DOES it mean? Picking this out and doing it over will be a real mess.  I can't make a new bodice because I used a small scrap of sequined fabric and don't have any more. I think I'm going to have to figure out some way to attach the skirt behind the bodice instead of between the bodice and lining. If anyone has ideas to make that work I'd love to hear them.

Iminei

Re: 18" Ball gown- confusing instructions
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2022, 08:52:23 AM »
Good luck with that @WendyW  ... hopefully some of our full length dressmakers (wedding dresses?) or even @Sandra  the Queen of All Alterations can come to your rescue
The Imperfect Perfectionist sews again

BrendaP

Re: 18" Ball gown- confusing instructions
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2022, 10:20:54 AM »
To me it sounds as though the designer had been making notes as she made the prototype; originally planned to finish the bodice before attaching the skirt and then changed her mind, but then forgot to take out the paragraph about sewing the lower edge of the bodice and lining together.

Very badly proof-read. :cry:
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

b15erk

Re: 18" Ball gown- confusing instructions
« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2022, 12:17:02 PM »
@WendyW , I would contact the Pattern company and the Designer to advise and clarify.  Those are very contradictory instructions.

Hope you sort it out.

Jessie
Jessie, who is very happy to be here!!  :),  but who has far too many sewing machines to be healthy, and a fabric stash which is becoming embarrassing.