I am trying once more to make a replica of The Vampire's Wife
Falconetti dress. I started trying to do this a couple of years ago and could never get it fitted properly. I had planned to take a rest for a couple of weeks, but it turned into about 1.5 years. Unlike before when I was altering a similar pattern, now I am using the newly released
Style Arc Queenie pattern , which is an exact replica of the dress. It is going much better than before, and I almost have the fitting correct. However, I am having some issues with the French dart. In order to get the very fitted look of the bodice, I have had to make it larger. Now, I am getting a big bubble at the end of the dart point right at the apex of the breast--not a good look. I have read that it can be due to having too large of a dart. I know that I could turn that dart into two French darts or some of it into a waist dart. However, since the original dress does not have those, I don't want mine to either. I read yesterday that part of a dart can be moved INTO the side seam. I don't mean a side seam dart. It is moved into the side seam allowance. Here is a
tutorial. I am thinking that I am going to take some of the French dart and turn it into a waist dart, but them move the waist dart into the side seam. However, I am concerned about how the back bodice will be affected when I stitch the front and back side seams together. Will it make the back bodice to tight? Can someone give me some advice? Thanks.