The Sewing Place

How to cut out difficult fabrics

SewRuthieSews

How to cut out difficult fabrics
« on: December 10, 2023, 20:19:33 PM »
@Ohsewsimple mentioned having some tricks on how to cut difficult fabrics. Like silk, chiffon, vscose crepe and etc.

Please share your tips. It might encourage me to have a go with some of the slippery things in my stash,


Greybird

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2023, 22:59:31 PM »
Only problems here - no solutions!

Ohsewsimple

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2023, 23:11:10 PM »
I’ll sort something out tomorrow if I can. 

Surest1tch

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2023, 19:13:37 PM »
I feel your pain. I like to cut out on the floor I've found the best way that works for me is to banish the dog from the room and push dozens of pins through the fabric about a cm away from the selvage and raw edges right through and right into the carpet and use weights not pins to hold the pattern in place.
The more you use fabrics like that you'll find the best way for you. Sorry if that's not very constructive help to you, it's just sharing the way I've worked out for myself.

BrendaP

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2023, 08:27:02 AM »
Lots of pins and sharp scissors/shears.
Brenda.  My machines are: Corona, a 1953 Singer 201K-3, Caroline, a 1940 Singer 201K-3, Thirza, 1949 Singer 221K, Azilia, 1957 Singer 201K-MK2 and Vera, a Husqvarna 350 SewEasy about 20 years old. Also Bernina 1150 overlocker and Elna 444 Coverstitcher.
http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.

Bodgeitandscarper

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2023, 09:05:05 AM »
Pin the hell out of it!!

Hideout Hen

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2023, 10:38:57 AM »
I used a cardboard cutting mat, pins and weights. Also a metre long heavy metal ruler that helped stop with fabric shifting around. Scissors with a micro serated edge are excellent especially for light jersey/ knits.

Oh, and patience, lots and lots of patience!  :D

.....I forgot, Anti static spray for stuff that won't stop clinging to everything.
« Last Edit: December 12, 2023, 11:43:06 AM by Hideout Hen »
In my dreams I'm still sewing....and also in my nightmares.

Ohsewsimple

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2023, 12:11:43 PM »
I’m going to sort out my method for cutting this afternoon.  Didn’t get back till the evening yesterday so didn’t get round to it. 

Missie

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2023, 12:22:58 PM »
Key to cutting out the tricky fabrics is to make sure that the weight of the fabric is supported, ie if you cannot fit all of it on your cutting area, make sure the excess is well supported so that it does not drag on the main part that you are cutting.  Then use lots of pins, LOTS of pins, placed horizontally in the seam allowance and cut in a single layer.  If it is a very fray-y fabric, I would also consider increasing the seam allowance as well (eg 1.5 to 2cm).

Ohsewsimple

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2023, 15:18:53 PM »
My method for cutting difficult fabrics. 
Apologies for creased fabric.  My iron needs cleaning.
Sometimes you’ll find that the selvedges are quite tight and the fabric will not lie flat.   In order to rectify this, snip into the selvedges at approximately 4” intervals. You will see the selvedges relax and gap and the fabric will then be flat. 

Lay tissue paper across cutting area.  If you have sheets then overlap slightly and stick with small amount of tape to stop them shifting. I often stick the tissue to the table as well.  You could also use an old sheet you don’t want.
If anyone knows of tissue paper on a roll rather than sheets I’d love to know.
 
Use a large right angled triangle to draw a right angle at one end.  Extend the lines as long as they need be but check they are absolutely straight.  I usually use a pencil but have used pen here so it shows up better.
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For this demo I’ve used viscose on the fold.  I would usually make sure it is ironed and crease free.  One end has been ripped to establish a straight line.  I find it the best way on this type of fabric.  If you can’t rip your fabric, then the usual snipping, pulling threads etc is fine as long as the edge is straightened.

Fold fabric matching the torn edge and matching the selvedges.  The cut or torn edge is then lined up on the left and pinned at intervals. The selvedges are lined up at the bottom and pinned.  I go back and forth making sure it’s all straight and lined up with my markings.  So start with pins at about 6” intervals and then place pins between to hold. 
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Sometimes you will have ripples in the fabric.  Just use your fingertips to gently push these to straighten it all.  With silk chiffon I’ve even resorted to blowing the fabric. That way you stand less chance of distorting it all and having to redo some areas.
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Carefully place pattern pieces, checking grain and pin.  I like to pin on the grainline itself if it won’t damage the fabric so it stays on grain.  Then I pin all corners at an angle before placing any in the seam allowances at right angles to the seam.  If that’s not possible I pin at an angle but never parallel to the seamline because the pattern/fabric can shift.
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When you cut out you are going to cut through the fabric and the tissue at the same time.  The tissue gives something for the shears to grip and you’ll have no problem cutting a straight line.   

Leave the tissue paper attached to the fabric until you need that particular piece. That way the fabric will remain stable. 

Kwaaked

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2023, 19:57:41 PM »
Cut in a single layer.

Don't pick the fabric up from the table, keep it flat.

Cut the string off, pin everything to an inch of its life.

Use weights, more then you think. 

Fabric clamps if you can use them are the bomb.

Spray starch is your friend.  It gives it body and stabilizes fabric.  (Only if you can wash the fabric, though).

Use tissue paper below and above the fabric to create a sandwich.   Does the same as starch in a way.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Bill

Re: How to cut out difficult fabrics
« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2023, 15:52:19 PM »
For cutting slippery fabrics, just nail it to the kitchen table with a big hammer and lots of super glue. Won't go anywhere then.
You're welcome.
Bernina 570QE (Bernie)     1937 Singer 201k (sally)
The best advice I can give you, is don't take advice from me
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