Fitting a knitted garment

[Puzzler]

There are scads of books, online tutorials and YouTube videos that demonstrate how to deal with fitting issues in sewn garments. Unless I am missing something, I can’t seem to find much in the line of equivalent resources for knitted garments. I would love to knit a basic jumper or cardigan but do not wish to rely on the ease to fit my body. For instance I believe knitting for a round and high round back would require short rows. The only knitter I know of that covers some fit issues is Amy Herzog. Internet searching just brings up fitting knits as in knit fabrics. I have checked out Ravelry too. I suppose I could ask on their forum but I thought I would ask here first.

[LeilaMay]

You talking hand knitting here? Machine knitting?
For hand knitting, because knitted garments, tend to have much more give in them, there is much less said about fitting. you just have to make sure the basic size is right for your measurements, the sleeves long enough, that sort of thing.

I suppose if you have a very specific fitting issue you could make pattern adjustments, graph paper used to be how I did it - knitting is very straightforward, one square+= one stitch LOL - but it would be hard to judge how much of an alteration you'd need to make until you'd tried, at least by knitting the back panel and seeing how it fitted your shape. And each different yarn would have a different kind of stretch and drape I imagine.

I don't think there is a simple answer to this one, trial and error (which I hate myself and so am sorry to have to ssay it here)

Leila 

[Greybird]

In machine knitting too, the amount of "give" in the knitted fabric is used to deal with those fitting issues, and no special allowance is made. If you lay a RTW jumper flat the measurement across at the hem is generally the same as that between the bottom of the armholes - front and back alike. Front and back sections are knitted from the same diagram shape and the only difference between the two is the neckline.

[Celia]

I agree and I used to work as a knitwear designer ……. I have done one off designs for people with a very particular problem but I have never seen a book covering these issues.

If you have a particular problem I will try to help if I can

[BrendaP]

There are a number of books about fitting hand knitted socks, but otherwise most knitted garments rely on the stretch of the fabric to fit.  Just get the total girth right and the length - but be aware that if you are knitting a swimsuit it will stretch rather a lot when it gets wet!

[Ohsewsimple]

I have this book on designing knits. 
https://www.covertocover.uk.com/product/barnden-betty-tubbs-gabiknit-design-designing-adapting-substituting-yarn-plus-17-step-by-step-patterns/

It doesn’t go into a lot about fit but it does seem to mention necklines.  This was always my problem.  Same as sewing.  If I knit to fit my body the neckline is useless.  Even when I was slimmer.  So I gave up.  The sleeves were never right either as I’m short.  It isn’t simply a case of knitting them shorter, unless they have no shaping.  It meant working everything out.  So my mum used to machine knit loads of my cardigans and jumpers.     Now she can no longer do that I am stuck with sewing them. 

[Ouryve]

Some nice tutorials here.
https://www.lavisch.com/site/tutorials/

[Ploshkin]

Good grief @Ouryve  I've knitted since the age of 4, I had no idea there was so much I didn't know!   

[Ouryve]

Good grief @Ouryve  I've knitted since the age of 4, I had no idea there was so much I didn't know!   

Doesn't someone here have "always learning" as their sig?

[Puzzler]

Wow, thank you, friends. 

@LeilaMay, I am referring to hand knitting. I would love to work out on a chart where I need those extra stitches and I guess it would vary depending on the yarn/gauge.

@BrendaP, I won’t be knitting a swimsuit any time soon (or ever). 

@Ohsewsimple, you sound like you are petite rather than short. Proportionately short all over? I know through sewing that I am simply short. Average torso with short legs. I often need to l shorten between shoulder and bust, due in part to poor posture, but lengthen between bust and waist. Adding length to the front of a jumper wont work unless it is shapeless. I don’t want anything overly fitted though, just skimming over the lumps and bumps. Perhaps I am over thinking. 

@Celia, I believe Amy Herzog used to offer a paid service where she altered knit patterns for individual people and their particular fit issues. I may be knocking on your door at some point, literally. 

@Ouryve, special thanks for that website link which was immediately bookmarked for later perusal. 

[Puzzler]

Doesn't someone here have "always learning" as their sig?

“Every day is a school day.”

[BrendaP]

I am referring to hand knitting. I would love to work out on a chart where I need those extra stitches and I guess it would vary depending on the yarn/gauge.

@Puzzler  If you do work on a chart you have to know your tension for the yarn and needles before you start designing/adapting.  With most stitch patterns an individual stitch is wider than it is high; more rows per inch than stitches per inch.  If you use square graph paper the design will be long and skinny!

You can buy pre-printed graph paper that aproximately right for knitting
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Books-Knitting-Graph-Paper/s?rh=n%3A266239%2Cp_27%3AKnitting+Graph+Paper
or you can generate your own.  see
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Books-Knitting-Graph-Paper/s?rh=n%3A266239%2Cp_27%3AKnitting+Graph+Paper

[Celia]

@Puzzler no problem you know where I am 

[Ohsewsimple]

@Puzzler well nowadays I am overweight so any size of commercial pattern I start with for sewing or knitting means there’s alterations to be made, regardless.  I’m used to it.
However when I was doing C&G we spent a day drawing around everyone and then marking all the relevant lines such as hips, waist, shoulders etc.  I seemed to be the only person who was in proportion related to my height.  That was a shock! 

[Silver Rose]

@Ouryve I have "still learning" as my sig  and I am