major issues with armhole gaping

[RachelB]

I am making the Style Arc Queenie dress and I am having a major issue with front armhole gaping.  My front armholes are asymmetrical so that I have more gaping on the right than on the left -- 2 inches on right and 1 inch on left.  The dress has French darts, which I love.  I tried to fix the issue by folding out a dart where the gaping is and then rotating that fullness into the French dart.  However, it made the angle of the darts so severe that they became pointy---not a good look. No amount of pressing would get rid of the pointiness.  I know I could add darts to the front shoulders by rotating the fullness there, but I don't want them.  I don't want any darts in the dress except for the ones already in the pattern.  The next thing I am thinking about doing is changing the shoulder slope on the front to take out the gaping.  However, I have 2 inches of gaping on the right side and 1 inch on the left side.   Will it work to alter the front shoulder slope that much, and with different amounts on either side?   If that won't work, it has been suggested to me to shorten the upper bodice between the bottom of the armhole and the shoulder to make the armhole smaller.  This would be done by folding out what I don't need.   However, since the amount of gaping is different on each side, will it work to fold out a little more on the right than the left?   If I use this technique, will I need to make adjustments anywhere else on the front or back bodice to accommodate this? I am getting so frustrated.   I would appreciate any suggestions that anyone has.  Thank you.

[HenriettaMaria]

Are you planning to make it sleeveless?  If not, mucking about with the armhole circumference will affect the set of the sleeves.  If it has sleeves, have you tried basting them in place and trying the garment on?  It's possible that part of what you perceive as a problem is to do with seam allowances.  My advice is to make a toile and check the fit before doing something irreversible to the final fabric.

[RachelB]

Are you planning to make it sleeveless?  If not, mucking about with the armhole circumference will affect the set of the sleeves.  If it has sleeves, have you tried basting them in place and trying the garment on?  It's possible that part of what you perceive as a problem is to do with seam allowances.  My advice is to make a toile and check the fit before doing something irreversible to the final fabric.

Thank you.  I am making it with sleeves and I have made about 6 toiles with inexpensive fabric to check the fit.  I have made adjustment to the sleeves to match what I changed on the armholes.  However, I have not tried shortening the upper bodice or adjusted the shoulder slope. I am just wondering if either shortening the upper bodice or adjusting the shoulder slope could work.

[realale]

Is this just an armhole issue or is there too much length in the upper chest for you? If it goes right across you could pinch out the excess to see how much to remove - which could be minimal in the centre but greater at the sides.

[RachelB]

Is this just an armhole issue or is there too much length in the upper chest for you? If it goes right across you could pinch out the excess to see how much to remove - which could be minimal in the centre but greater at the sides.

I think I am going to try that to see what happens.  Other than sleeves, do I need to make any adjustments anywhere else?  Thanks.

[BrendaP]

Is the asymmetry your body? Or a problem with the fabric?  Fabric cut on the bias will behave differently on either side.

Bodices with sleeves do generally need more wearing ease than the same bodice without sleeves.  Are the toiles baggy around the sleeve seams?

[Ohsewsimple]

I think we need photos to see exactly what is wrong.  It’s very difficult to decide without seeing the problem.
However I would normally say that armhole gaping is usually a sign that a dart needs to be added. 
Messing about with the bodice length or shoulders will just mean the sleeves won’t fit.  If you alter those,  that may mean you can’t get  the garment on.

[RachelB]

Is the asymmetry your body? Or a problem with the fabric?  Fabric cut on the bias will behave differently on either side.

Bodices with sleeves do generally need more wearing ease than the same bodice without sleeves.  Are the toiles baggy around the sleeve seams?

It is a body issue.  The toiles are a little baggy around the sleeve seams when the sleeves are inserted.  Another possibility occurred to me. Do you think that cutting a size smaller for just the upper part of the bodice (from shoulder down to upper bust line) and then tapering out to my normal size might below might help?

[RachelB]

I think we need photos to see exactly what is wrong.  It’s very difficult to decide without seeing the problem.
However I would normally say that armhole gaping is usually a sign that a dart needs to be added. 
Messing about with the bodice length or shoulders will just mean the sleeves won’t fit.  If you alter those,  that may mean you can’t get  the garment on.

Thank you. 

[realale]

Do you think that cutting a size smaller for just the upper part of the bodice (from shoulder down to upper bust line) and then tapering out to my normal size might below might help?

I always cut a size smaller for my shoulders blended to the next size up for my bust then up a size for where I used to have a waist then up a size for my hips. That's how my body is!! 
I was always told to fit the shoulders first because that's where your clothes hang from.
As has been said pics would help us see what the problem is.

[Ploshkin]

With garments that need good fitting I also need a different alteration for right and left armhole and shoulder slope ( I get gaping at the back of the armhole).  Because the finished garment fits well the difference doesn't notice.
However, if you are doing a lining you need to remember to reverse the shaping when cutting out - ask me how I know!

[Missie]

Thank you.  I am making it with sleeves

Have you done the toile with the sleeves in?  You should always do this as the sleeves will affect the way the bodice hangs and it may not be as noticeable with the sleeves in situ.

Might also be helpful for you to post photos so we can see better what is going on.

[RachelB]

I always cut a size smaller for my shoulders blended to the next size up for my bust then up a size for where I used to have a waist then up a size for my hips. That's how my body is!! 
I was always told to fit the shoulders first because that's where your clothes hang from.
As has been said pics would help us see what the problem is.

  I am definitely going to try cutting a smaller size for the upper bodice.  I am hoping that will fix the problem. 

[RachelB]

With garments that need good fitting I also need a different alteration for right and left armhole and shoulder slope ( I get gaping at the back of the armhole).  Because the finished garment fits well the difference doesn't notice.
However, if you are doing a lining you need to remember to reverse the shaping when cutting out - ask me how I know!

 
Thank you.  So, on the lining do I need to do the alterations to the opposite side since I would put right sides to right sides?

[RachelB]

Have you done the toile with the sleeves in?  You should always do this as the sleeves will affect the way the bodice hangs and it may not be as noticeable with the sleeves in situ.

Might also be helpful for you to post photos so we can see better what is going on.

Yes, I have put the sleeves in.  It is a little baggy around the armscye.  I will try to get some photos this afternoon.